Nic_A31

Well as it is now, begins spool at 2000rpm, 10PSI @ 2500rpm, full boost (13.5PSI) at around 2700rpm. all those numbers are staggered about 200rpm or so down if it's super cold. So...... I chucked one of these DRIFT steering wheels onto an AutotecnicA boss kit couple of weeks ago too. Sorry for teh blurry pics, I've tried for the life of me, to get a sharp pic on my phone, but it isn't happening. When interior is all cleaned properly, I'll take some day time pics. Having no self canceling indicators and no horn to abuse shit drivers was driving me insane, so the GT-R wheel had to go. Now I have both again, so I'm happy.

Yeah been thinking about it since FMIC went on. It only takes 500 rpm to make full boost, does that mean if I get a forward facing plenum, I get full boost instantly, turbo diesel style? That'd be sweeeeeet

That's some weird oil/water heat transfer thing. Uses oil to get water up to temp quicker. You can probably remove it all-together RB20 style, I've never looked at it, it's pretty handy on teh daily driver for those cold mornings when you just want the heaters working ASAP haha.

NI-46271-15G00

Havent taken any whole-car photo's with those on yet. Maintenance work last weekend got pretty messy. Got manifold off to clean the area below it and replace some heater hoses. Gave everything a quick clean with the wire wheel on the drill. Done some other bits n pieces. Finally got around to buying brake line clips from Nissan. Less than $3.00 each and in stock, should've done it sooner. Removed silicone induction pipe, and put rubber one back on, new Drift dry pod filter, and made some brackets, secured it lower and closer to the headlight. Definitely noticeable difference moving the pod away from the exhaust and in front of a cold air duct (90 degree bend for the standard SMIC still bolted to the body) and now I've got some room to make up an air box and snorkel.

I've got my boost gauge mounted onto the A pillar trim. You'll be able to get 3 along the pillar trim no worries if they're 52mm, 4 might be pushing it. If they're 60mm, might be a different story. I think Dan_J (?) mounted his water temp gauge in place of the regular temp gauge on the cluster but that gauge was smaller than 52mm. I used to have my boost gauge mounted in front of the 2 centre air con vents, and since putting it on the A pillar trim I wouldn't put it anywhere else. Soo much easier to see now. I'd put either 2 onto the pillar (boost and oil pres. more important) and the other 2 onto the panel above your knee's (oil and water temp. less important). Shouldn't be too hard to quickly glance at every now and then. Alternatively relocate the air con controls to the second DIN, and put 2 gauges into a plate and put that where the air con controls would normally go. I don't really see the point of mounting gauges on the passenger side of the car, you'll never get a chance to read the gauges properly while you're driving.

I've got a pair kicking around my desk here somewhere, send me a PM for details.

Hey guys, Has been asked several times on this forum, how to remove the beep the Cefiro's put on at 105kmp/h. I do believe that simply unplugging the modules below the steering column (above your knee's) will also remove the warning beeps for leaving your lights turned on, or if you're about to lock your keys in the car. The following method will retain those warnings. Some A31s also have a problem with the speedo sticking at around the same speed when accelerating. The needle will either stick and hold on that speed until you decelerate, or stick temporarily then continue climbing (lagged behind your actual speed). These 2 problems are linked. I had to remove my interior today to do a couple of things, and this was on the list. Very easy. 10 minutes max. Remove all trims in the way to access the speedo cluster. Remove cluster itself. Remove clear cover from cluster. Remove bezel (black surrounds) from the cluster. Remove the speedo gauge (2 screws on the back of the cluster, push the gauge out the front of the cluster) I compared the speedo I had to the one out of my late model C33 halfcut. It's possible early model Laurels have this 'feature', and/or it's possible that late model A31's don't. If your speedo has this red wire, then you've got the beeper bug. You'll see along the shaft from the speedo drive, there's 2 lips on the ring. One has a slightly smaller diameter to the other. As the speedo is moving faster than 105kmp/h (depending on speedo sync) the larger of the 2 lips on that ring will make contact with a plate (feeler) linked to the red wire. The reason some speedo needles stick at the same speed is because of the same lip. The entire drive will get stuck on the sensor and fail to keep climbing (this may only be related to speedo's with a cracked plastic housing where the speedo cable join the gauge). The red wire goes to a 3 pin plug, along with the black and white wires. This tells your ECU your speed, so don't just chop the whole plug. I removed the red wire entirely, along with the metal contact plate (just keep bending it back and forth until it snaps off) My late model C33 speedo didn't have the red wire at all, any metal contact plates or even a lip on the ring. Absolutely no provisions at all for a speed warning. This is the Laurel speedo: This is the Cefiro speedo after removing the speed warning. If you're wondering why I didn't throw in the C33 speedo, it's because the drive inside it was already stuffed, and it's a different face compared to the early models.

Not sure what to call that. Pig, or missile.

Repairable ?

The auto headlights should slicker on and off as you driver under bridges, tunnels, etc. That's normal. If its flickering on and off at night time driving under street lights, then your sensor is a dud. The main sensor is the one on the driver's/right hand side, under the smoked lens. It MAY use the sensor on the left as well. In theory it shouldn't in any way affect one headlight, it's just a 3-stage switch for the headlight circuit (off/running lights/headlights). It'll just a bad plug or relay. Mine has a similar little glitch. Cover the sensor on the dash with something (wallet/phone) (or do nothing at night time) Turn ignition on, door closed, turn ignition off. Your auto headlights should stay on until you open the door. Turn the switch real slow, just in between off and auto, you'll notice one headlight (left) lights up. Also pull the stalk back for high beams, there's a sweet spot just in the middle, lights up left side only, pull the stalk back any further and it lights up both. Also on super cold mornings, turning indicators on will sometimes make one or both headlights quickly turn off then back on again (bad earth on the steering column?)

Yep. Bushes and links = S13. Nolothane ones are pretty cheap off the shelf.

Will admit, quiet jelly about the Stage21 bonnet. Got much planned for it ? Def. keen for a cruise. You've prob seen me around Perth, I roll in this

Look like Wonder to me.

Believe me I've searched every single relevant website on the internet for an English workshop manual. It doesn't exist. Just post topics in the 4-door section when you need help on stuff. Driver's side visor, coin box, external trims and front guard, try Sleeka Spares or Japanes Import Spares (in that order) (both in SA) Interior door handles I do believe are the same (including the surrounding trim) as R32 4 door. Might even be same as fronts as well, not sure. Handbrake lever can be taken from R32/R33, etc. Either need to find a factory manual handbrake bracket, make a bracket, or space the handbrake off the floor by about 20mm somehow. Front bar indicator plugs will be Nissan universal, so go raid any Nissan wreck. Front windshield $350 fitted from O'Brien'. EDIT: Unless anybody in here has that stuff, haha

Sunroof / non-sunroof ?

Sign up on Antilag, and find out....

How many times has it been launched ?

$200 is decent. Ring Northside Nissan, Steve is the man you wanna talk to. 9409 0120

Depending on how bad the exhaust leak is, it will have a big impact on performance and response. Less exhaust gas going into the turbo will increase spool up time, affect peak boost/ability to hold boost, and it also means less air into the turbo and out via the dump pipe, which means less air passing over the O2 sensor, which will again affect performance and fuel economy. You've also got the problem of excess heat in the engine bay. It shouldn't do any serious damage to keep driving it like this, but I'd still get it fixed stat. Not sure what the difference in performance will be. Your turbo should start singing at around 2000rpm and be making full boost at or before 2500rpm. Exhaust manifold jobs are a bit of a bitch. Usually run the risk of snapping an exhaust stud inside the head (if this does happen, don't have a crack at removing it yourself, and don't let a mate try either, just suck it up, and pay a mobile thread repair guy to come out, charge you $50/$100 and take it out in literally 5 minutes tops, nil damage). Most of the intake setup and turbo itself need to come off before the manifold can be removed. Time for the job depends, I've done it a couple of times now, and I can do it in about an hour. I jack the car up, and unbolt the dump pipe from the downpipe. Unbolting the dump pipe from the turbo often runs the same risk of snapping bolts, as unbolting the manifold from the head. The 3 bolts from the dump pipe to the down pipe always come off hassle free. Also, with the gasket, nuts, washers, etc. don't go aftermarket. Nothing does the job better than genuine Nissan. It might be the best part of $150/$200, but at least it won't start leaking again 6 months down the track. I've learnt that the hard way.

http://www.transport...nsing/20500.asp

Niiiice. You've got some skills man. Keep up the vids

Cheers man. Still a bit undecided on it. Hard to tell it even has a kit at all depending on what kind of surface its parked on, and lighting. Will keep it like that for a while, if I change my mind I'll spray the whole lot white, but I think body colored front lips are a bit odd looking. Not soo much on white cars, but still IMO doesn't look as cool as black. http://cdn.mkimg.carview.co.jp/minkara/photo/000/002/401/911/2401911/p1.jpg

All clean.

Got the car back today. Excuse lack of weathershield on front right door, note the straight panels and fresh paint. The rest of the car badly needs a buff+polish to match the freshly painted stuff, but it is all the same color now. Kit still needs some work to make it sit right on the skirts and rear bar. Exhaust sits a bit too inside the bumper for my liking. If those Trust shotguns don't fit (and poke outside the bumper) I'll chuck that huge BeeR cannon on there. Anyway. Just got home. Just a tad stoked about how it turned out. I'll give the car a polish next weekend, and take some proper pics of it. Then I'll chuck on these ProjectMU nuts