Nic_A31

I let the car sit for an hour without the battery and the current dropped at the same rate/speed as when it drops with the battery connected. I also disconnected every single fuse one by one, and noticed no differece. I put a stock radiator in today, and the hose itself registers a reading of 0.10v-0.15v. The coolant registeres between 0.03v-0.04v. WTF ? Next thing I'm doing is rubber lining both tanks on the alloy radiator and putting that back in, see if maybe it was the mounts that was causing trouble.

Everywhere. Local guys at radiator shop put de-mineralised water in it when diagnosing why temp. sensor wasn't triggering the fan relay. I flushed with tap water and went fresh pre-mixed coolant. Flushed it again today with tap water (ran probably 50+ litres through it) and radiator flush. Bit of an update, I've ran an extra earth from another bolt on the engine mount straight to the chassis rail. Ran extra lead from negative terminal on battery straight to chassis rail. 3 from motor itself to chassis. 1 from gearbox to chassis. 1 from diff to chassis. 1 from cradle to chassis. STILL got current in the water that sits at around 0.80v when at normal operating temperature.

Electrolysis. It causes corrosion and eats away at the insides of alloy radiators. Can chew our radiators in a matter of days. Radiator is sitting on brand new Nissan rubber mounts top and bottom, but like I said I'm reluctant to go adding any more earth straps directly to the radiator, that can do more harm than good.

Hey guys, I've been struck with an absolute head-f**k of a problem that's incredibly risky to keep running, and I need to sort it this weekend. I don't have the car all day Saturday, and I need to do a 65km round trip on Monday. She's producing a stray current while running. Starts off small at around 0.10v and as the temperature increases it settles at anywhere between 0.60 to 0.80v. Being an all alloy radiator I can't risk running this any longer, as it's already been on the go for at least one week. I only came to realise today that there is a current in the coolant. I checked the main earth lead of the battery, added another earth from the terminal straight to the chassis, and another 2 leads off the motor onto the chassis in the engine bay, but the current persists. I completely disconnected the ECU loom from the ECU, completely disconnected the starter motor wiring, alternator wiring, I completely disconnected the battery and took it out of the engine bay, only to notice that the car STILL somehow has current in it. As the temperature drops, the current does also, very very slowly. Has anybody here had this issue before? I don't even know where to start looking. Stressing big time. I'm not keen on simply attaching a strap from the radiator to the chassis to earth it out, as this will have a two fold effect and actually promote somewhere for the said current to go, directly into the radiator, rather than via the coolant.

Nice find. Floor Brace for A31/C33 http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b122946024&thumb=http://f3.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img253.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/7/7/0/3/kenichi123015-thumb-1310898666583689.jpg&title=

PM sent w/ number. J60 AFM SOLD to the man in the hat.......lol jks Sold pending swapsies / payment

Fan Speed Control Switch Hazard Light Switch Auto Transmission Shift Switch SOLD CD Player Brackets Clear Indicators Sold Pending Payment Cupcake, PM Sent

Series 1 what ? I need the S2 holders for my daily, once I got S2 gear I can cut the S1's out, but all my Series 1 tail lights are gone. Can negotiate swaps for other shit though.

So I been digging through my pictures that I've put up online, finding some cool f**king pictures I've taken over the last year. When I got my calipers sand blasted. People whinge and moan that it's too hard to take the caliper off the knuckle, take it apart, sand it, do it the proper way. I cringe every time I see calipers with 8 coats of paint on them, the same color paint that's all over the rotor, and half off the wheel well. I got 8 calipers (total 16 pieces) blasted PROPERLY for a carton of Corona. It took 1 day. The other cool pics I found was my old Laurel halfcut. I somehow dragged that all the way out the driveway and up next to the tree by myself. The local council left a 7 day notice on it the next day.

Hey guys, Chasing the globe holders for series 2 tail lights, With plug + 50mm or more of wiring would be AWESOME. Let me know what you've got. Cheers Nic

All into 1 thread. A fair bit of this stuff is for sale in other threads I've made, but never moved. Need it gone. Series 2 / 3 Air ConControls The plastic on the back is all busted up from me not being gentle enough with it, barely holds together. The face is slightly different to the Cefiro units. Electronically, it's all good, but without being inside a proper casing, some buttons don't reach the switches You can take the face / internals and put it into another casing, and it'll be all good. $20 HKS Turbo Timer Old School. Suits Series 2/3 Laurel, R32 Skyline. I've cut part of the harness out so you can turn it around and it'll suit Series 1 Cefiro and Laurel. $20 DRIFT Gear Shift Knob Has a fair bit of weight in it. The plastic adapter to suit Nissan thread is a bit buggered, but it still does the job. The scratches look a lot worse in the photo's than they actually are. $100 Auto HeadlightSensor Suit A31 Cefiro / C33 Laurel. $10 HICAS Computer Suit A31 Cefiro / C33 Laurel $10 Weird Brown Box Mounts between the brake booster and the upper chassis rail in the engine bay. $?? Headlight/Indicator & Window Wiper Stalk Need a scrub and clean. Markings have faded off. $20 for BOTH Cefiro/Laurel CD Player DIN Mounting Brackets. $20 Nachi Thrust Bearing Suit RB. Part # TBA342 Never Used, still in packaging. Box in shit shape. $50 Various Holding Devices.Throttle Cable (Strut Tower), Fuel Filter (Strut Tower), Loom/Air ConPipe (Chassis), Glove Box Clip. $Make Offer Hazard Light Switch + Race-Car-Driver / Nanny-Driver Toggle Switches for Auto Trans. $Free if you buy something else Roof Light Switch No Plug / Loom $5 Fan Speed Control Switch Pulled From C33 Laurel Wreck. Comes with plug and modified wiring $5 Cefiro Side Mirror Controls, Fog Light Switch + Trim Piece. $30 Another weird box thing. $5 Rear Windshield Demister Switch. $5 A31 / C33 Clear Front Indicators. $60 J60 Purple Label Air Flow Meter. w/ Plug + approx. 100mm – 150mm wiring. $25 Prices are exclusive of shipping. Located Perth, WA

Stang, your cef looks HEAPS better all white. Soo f**king clean. I think different rims, and it'll be perfect. Did you photoshop the gaps on your front bar? looks a bit suss

Spewin!! Do you have air con dash controls ?

Hey dude, I need the tail-light globe holders for the Series 2 taillights. With plug and atleast 50mm of wiring if possible. Price inc postage to 6056 WA Cheers Nic

Pics!?!

Problem is all sorted, refer to my last update and recent posts

Can't remember the brand name off the top of my head, it's a brand newie, but just a standard replacement. It's possible that it's a combination of the motor mounts and the water pump bearing. When I did the clutch, I tilted the engine, I picked the engine up from that bracket that constrains the alternator pulley which rigs up to 2 bolts on the water pump (as well as 2 other points)....I may have twisted the pump or somehow pushed the fins on the pump into the block when I did that. On the A31 and R32 radiators, the pattern that the fan dug into the radiator cut in a semi circle on the right hand side of the radiator, on the big ISC it dug almost an entire circle but again the right hand side had a deaper cut into the radiator, so whatever was going off balance was biased to the right side. That's why I thought maybe the 1 piece driveshaft was pushing the gearbox out to the right side at high revs, in turn twisting the engine and putting the right side of the clutch fan's rotation closer to the radiator. But now I remember when I rolled up at my mate's place with the R32 radiator pissing out coolant, I free revved it to 7000rpm and the fan took out 3 big chunks off the radiator shroud (one chunk must've missed my mate's face by mere inches) so I guess it was the bearing. The shaft play was really not alot, to feel it the pump needed to be mounted to the motor or in a vice so you could actually get some leverage. Still, the brand spanker new one has no shaft play at all. I had probably half a dozen people look at it, and were all baffled by how it kept managing to do what it did. Your purple Ceffy sounds like my primer grey Ceffy, in a bazillion pieces and as bunky as they come - so keep going on yours, so I've got motivation to keep going on mine.

Toffy: You should definately finish the purple one, that one is awesome! Kris: The shaft on my water pump had a very little amount of play, possible that the bearing was gonners. I replaced the water pump with a brand newie, soo far it hasn't scratched my thermo fan. Other than that, no idea, was a very very odd problem...I was suprised especially the first time, since it had well over 60mm clearance between the fan and the stock radiator. Apparently quiet common for the bearings to go and slip the fan forwards and into the radiator, so that would be my best guess. It's a bit hard to say in my position if I've definately fixed it. I replaced water pump, went thermo fans, new radiator rubber mounts top and bottom, 2 piece driveshaft, and (not yet installed) new engine and gearbox mounts.

A fair bit of work done on this lately. I got booted from my job which had the joys of a company car, so I'm leaning on this once again. My first concern was that gearbox leak that ALWAYS, somehow came back.. I decided to revert back to 2 piece, regardless of the cost. I'd used Kermit Engineering a few times before to get some shit welded up, keep in touch with the guy on Facebook and he knew what kind of situation I'd been put into recently, so he kept the cost nice and low for me. Couple of hundred bucks it set me back. Cut the centre bearing carrier mount open, took out the broken nut, hung a new bolt in (hanging downwards like the opposite side) from the floorpan...although mounting this was going to be nearly impossible...we/he eventually decided to weld plates to the bolt and near the bolt, it actually free floats inside the floor, but stops moving around once it's tightened down with a nut. I was worried this would still rattle around or wear out the centre bearing, but after 1 test drive, those concerns disappeared quickly. All good now, I just need to be careful when I touch those bolts anytime I'm working on the floorpan. Big thanks to Mark for helping me out on that one. Was indeed a very unusual problem, and a massive headf**k to find a viable and realistic solution for. The only 2 piece Cefiro tailshafts I had were in ABS length, so I needed to go back to using an ABS diff. The only ABS diff I had....just so conveniently happened to be my Tomei 2-Way mechanical diff, which has 5 bolt driveshaft flanges. Also just by conincidence, I couldn't find any ABS diff housings with 6 bolt flanges....and I've never been that savy about diff internals, so the Tomei mechanical went in. I did ponder alot about what was causing issues with my clutch fan and radiators....and the clashing of the two. After killing radiator number three and clutch fan number two, that was another point of interest. I replaced the water pump, got my hands on ANOTHER alloy radiator, and got a very nifty electric thermo fan. The fan mounted into the shroud ok, but I ended up removing it from the shroud and mounting it hard up on the radiator with a very small spacer in between. For comparison, WITHOUT the shroud, this is how close it sits to the motor. With a retail of over $400 I'd rather not run it any closer. Wiring the fan up was a bit of a head-f**k in itself. The temp switch at the bottom of the radiator (which triggers the smaller fan to the passenger side up front) happens to be the same thread size and pitch as the trigger/sensor for the fans relay, so I pulled that sensor out, and wired both the aftermarket thermo fan (pull) and the air-con overheat fan up front (push) to the same wires, off the same relay, triggered by the temp switch. The switch has a trigger range of 85 degrees on, 80 degrees off. The Alloy radiator is doing it's job probably too well, as currently, the relay hasn't triggered the fans on, not once....both when idling and under load. I've checked the switch and relay and both are in working order. It's weird. The temp still runs cooler than it used to with stock radiator / ISC alloy radiator (bigger than this one) / GTR radiator. This is what happens when your RB20DET very badly needs a tune, and sits without running for weeks on end. Other shit I've done: Re-seated my air con ducts behind dash, for better air flow Broke my air con controls, for no air flow at all Wired up the clcok on the Laurel dash....this amazingly works, is well lit up, and it stays on time!! Plans for next fortnight: Get it detailed by a pro Darkest legal tint Respray guard, bumpers, couple of other spots Photoshoot (Stay tuned)

Sure. I'll measure up from the centre of the front uni-joint to the end of the diff flange. If you want different measurement, do a quick edit in paint or something, of following photo and point out where to/from http://i53.tinypic.com/2nbt54j.jpg

Is that your Ceffy? No chrome grille No sweet wheels.

What happened to all your cool bits Kris ?

I've reverted back to 2 piece driveshaft now, so I'm moving this on. Suits RB20 gearbox, and non-ABS diffs (OR ABS diffs with the sensor on the driveshafts, not the nose end). I'll be 100% honest. I'm sure it's balanced, but there is a slight mark on the first universal joint (at the yoke). I don't recall this being there when I first bought the driveshaft, so this could just be the seal I was using not seated properly and rubbing on the face, or the face might not be perfectly flat. I racked up a few thousand KMs with this driveshaft, and it was just as nice to drive as a 2 piece, it didn't vibrate like a bitch at low or high speeds. The only drama I had with this tailshaft is the size of the rear gearbox seal needed. The yoke is slightly thinner on this tailshaft, you need a seal that's 50mm O.D x 34mm I.D x 12mm deep. (by comparison, the factory seal is 50-35-12) Paid $450 for it. Want $250, have considered the 2 main issues with it. PM me for further details.

Just the front hubs? I run JJR on mine. Loctite on the threads, tighten them in, let them set for 24 hours. I've ran mine for over 7000kms now and had not a single drama. Alternatives: Attain 5 stud hubs, suit S13. - These sell for about $500-$600 on YahooJapan, the studs are pressed into the hub the same way as the factory studs. They're built to a very high quility. J30 / Q45 Front hubs - This involves pressing your S13/A31 bearings into the front hubs of a J30 Maxima / Q45. This would be your safetest option, and possibly the cheapest. http://www.nissansil...howtopic=327691 S14 Lazy-Man's Method (NOTE: I highly regard this method as lazy, unintelligent, and outright dangerous) - This method is used by dudes who lack the muscle strength to undo the 27mm front hub bolt and knowledge of how to split a ball joint. They somehow gather in their mind that the wheel hub and knuckle assembly are ONE piece. Take S14 LCA, knuckle and hub, and install into your Cefiro. Bore out the holes on your knuckle assembly/coilover base, to accommodate the Cefiro coilovers, and tighten down your tie rod ends as tight as you possibly can, since you can't tighten the bolt down enough to get the split pin back through the bolt.....and hope to God it never comes undone. EDIT: This might be of some help as well. I thought S14 hubs could accomidate S13 bearings but have found some debate about it. Might be worth investigating. S14 hubs will be easier to find than J30/Other. http://www.nissansil...howtopic=367362

Can't change headings here on SAU. Can edit a post for up to 2 hours after original post, but that's it. Can prob request a moderator to do it for you......wait.....