Nic_A31

Bump on old topic: I've made up ANOTHER parts thread in MicrosoftWord, heaps easier to read than the current one up there that I made. Is it possible to replace the post with a new one if I send text/document to moderator ? Question 2) Any chance of making replies in parts thread by approval only / viewed by mod/admin before being published ?

# Steering Rack S13 Silvia - NOT a direct fit. Requires pinion housing to be swapped to match A31/C33 Steering Collumn. Tailshaft Rear/Long Half - A31/C33 Specific, not interchangeable with any other vehicle. Front/Short Half (inc Centre Bearing) - R32 Skyline (for RB20 gearboxes), R33 Skyline (for RB25 gearboxes - possibly requires further modification)

Oil meant to leak when the yoke isn't in the box One of those things I actually didn't know first time I took tailshaft out - had a spaz thinking I had a f**ked box or something 2L is about right isn't it. I thought it was roughly 2.2 but never measure it, just fill it up to the plug. Had a better look last night, it's more like 20mm of the yoke exposed, but that might decrease again when I actually mount the tailshaft to the diff. Cheers fella's.

Reverted back to 2 piece driveshaft today, and noticed the yoke doesn't go all the way into the gearbox. The 1 piece would go all the way in, now I know there is meant to be slack but I can't remember how much. Can somebody take a pic of theirs with that circular cover off, show me roughly how much of the yoke is meant to be exposed with the centre bearing and diff ends of the tailshaft mounted ? I've got like ...1in.++. A31 rear tailshaft. R32 front half inc centre bearing)

I been watching that for past couple of weeks. Price is all up and down between 330 and 400. Aussie dollar needs to get upper hand and kick the shit out of the yen some more so I can afford/justify it haha.

Jealous of the auto mirror. Those a rare...and cool. Looking good. Decent wheel fitment, especially with the URAS kit..

Reminds me of sick brake/wheel fitment I had on the Ceffy when it had R32 brakes but still 4 stud at the front with S13 stockies. THIS ACTUALLY DID CLEAR THE BRAKES. Don't ask me how, even with my own 2 eyes I couldn't see any actual gap but the wheel did spin. http://a1.sphotos.ak...81_652349_n.jpg It scraped a few times until I did up all the wheel nuts properly, then just cleared.....I should've kept it like that and racked up some more points for being a mad c**t.

I was going to say before, look at getting it chopped down.Surely the cost of cutting the flanges and bringing the whole cage down 1-2 inches isn't THAT much ? Sure as hell beats ripping out a perfectly good sunroof and making a dodgey roof. That right there is $500-$1000 value on your Ceffy come the day you want to sell it.

There's one on eBay, at a car yard, its got SR20DET It's been unreasonably priced for a while, make them a lowball offer if it's still for sale....

Another PM sent

I'll help you think of a price structure: Nic_A31 - $20 Everyone else $220 But seriously....I dunno, $100?

If falls through with him, I'm keen as well. (inc glove box )

Good God don't do that. Generally, non-sunroof cages CAN fit but they're a very very tight fit. If it's track only, take the roof lining out, and that gives you a bit more room, that's about 1/3 of the height difference, the other 2/3 being the sunroof assembly itself. Sunroof is all sorts of fun, and it makes you an instant sickcvnt...keep it

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k143055677&thumb=http://f2.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img329.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/0/0/9/2/copen32z-thumb-1310179593678500.jpg&title=Z32%20R31%20C32%20C33%20Z31%20A31%20Y31%20F31 I honestly have no idea what that is. Judging by the bracket and the cable...it looks like a convertor for the coilpack loom....maybe S1 (R31, A31, C33) to S2 (R32, later A31/C33) Bracket appears to bolt on over the top of the existing ignition module, this thing goes onto the same bracket, then the wiring harness joins the two.

Wow, by the end it got f**ked up even worse than in the picture.....

You'd prob be right about Thailand, Asia (ex. Japan), South American, etc Cefiro's (all LHD). What about the LATE late model ones. LHD Laurels and Cefiro's were made and sold up to 1997, and sometime between 94-97 they came factory with 5 stud. My understanding was all Cefiro's, from 20E to 25DE came with the same brakes front and back, which are very similar to SR20 brakes but not interchangeable. I've offered my whole brake setup for free to couple of Sil owners and they rejected, claiming it's different to SR brakes... Beats me. Skyline brake upgrade FTW.

From memory: The actual sensor that goes inside the housing is the same from late 80s all the way up to R34 GT-T (GTR being different) apparently. This includes DE and E style RBs. They cost like $30, the housing (and the plug) is different obviously between E and DE heads, newer/late model, S1 Cefiro/S2 Cefiro/Skyline, etc etc...but none of that matters if you put in the effort to open up the housing and change the actual sensor.

That would definately do it. Time for new gearbox mount.

Some of the relays near the fuse cluster are the exact same plug type and numbers...should be for headlights / tail lights, etc,....ie not neccesary to run. Swap the over see if that works. Possible that the ECU is the problem....reset the ECU (clear stored codes) and see if the code returns. What exactly is the problem and how did you test the relay? Diagnosing the relay is pretty simple. Turn the igniton on, if the fuel pump primes then it's doing the first half of its job, Flick the starter motor over a couple of turns, if the fuel pump primes again, then it's doing the other half. If it's not priming fuel, and the relay IS working fine (or you test out another relay and it still isn't pumping fuel), then you could have a short on your fuel cradle ('sender'), on the tank, or somewhere on the loom going to the relay.

Yep that the one. It's Nissan universal so replace it with one with the same numbers and plug type.

Didn't just come up with that theory now did you?

S13 is direct fit for RWD. as Rich said, the lines on R32 are run differently, so R32 racks and lines only suit AWDs.

The reason it jams is because of the motors alignment on the rail with the teeth. When the motor reaches a certain tooth, it stops. eg. sunroof is tilted up and you close it, it stops when the glass is flush with the roof (water sealed). It's meant to stop again at halfway, and again at the end.

They're meant to stop halfway, then wait for you to press the button again to continue going back all the way. My 88 Ceffy doesn't do this, it just goes all the way back first go, my 89 ceffy only goes back halfway, then gets jammed.....if I work out how to fix it, I'll post it up in here.

Well, first radiator was the factory RB20E radiator, single 10mm core. Second one was the ISC alloy tri-core (50+mm) Both with the same fan (factory clutch fan) Third radiator was R32 GTR, I replaced the bent fan blades with spare RB25 one and used the same clutch/hub. Can't work it out man. No play at all in the water pump or hub, radiator secure, engine mounts are tight, etc. Couldn't even see anything move when I free revved it.