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Nic_A31

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Everything posted by Nic_A31

  1. So I see alot of Ceffies getting around with the front bar's hanging down a bit. Thought I'd quickly slap together a write up on how to put it back together. Alot of people are missing the bracket that joints the bumper and guard at 2 + 2 points....for this reason I've added pics to the process so you guys can see what it looks like and fabricate something similar to give the same result The bracket secures to the guard at two points in the middle. 1) Feed a bolt through from inside the panel and thread it into the guard. It doesn't need to be tight, you still need to move the bracket around a bit to line it up at other points. 2) These points are constrained via a plastic clip from the factory, it is very difficult to remove this clip intact. Either use a similar clip, or drill out the hole a bit wider and use a nut and bolt. Similar to step one, feed a bolt through from the inside of the panel, and use a nut on the outside to pin it. I forgot to take a pic of my finished product there. Basically same same as the first bolt (lower)...but it's really up to you how you secure this. 3) This point on the bracket is meant to pin to the bumper itself. From factory, it uses a plastic clip (one of the plastic bolts that you unwind, and push back in). Your best bet here is to (where possible) use the same type of clip, since it needs to sit almost flush. The fourth and final constraint is at the very bottom, you'll all be familiar with this one, since if you don't secure it, the bumper doesn't stay on the reinforcement bar It's important when mounting the bumper, to make sure the provisions on the top of the bar (where it joins with the headlights and grill) slip over the top of the reinforcement bar, not into or underneath. The other important ones are along the front bar, inside the ducts, looking up (behind the number plate) along the bottom face of the reinforcement bar, there are 4 (?) plastic clips that help hold it up, and play a big part. I'll take more pics when the rain stops and upload ASAP.
  2. IM240 testing is long gone, and Kostecki's has shut down. Refer to Antilag for more details.
  3. Interior pics? If thats ceffy Im thinking of, I might be after centre console.
  4. So, tonight... the ceffy (the white one) killed radiator number three.....and sent a chunk of the fan shroud at my mate's face after 7000rpm in neutral went south real quick. FML
  5. Any updates on this mate? Also did you used to have a late model auto centre console in your cef? I was chasing that as well
  6. Dunno yet. Been like that for a week. It only gets driven for 30 mins at a time, max, couple of times a week, and I avoid main roads / hot spots, etc. Once I strip all 4 door bumpers I'll get the guard and both bumpers resprayed...should be a half decent Ceffy then.
  7. Standard fan. 32 GTR radiator in with a new fan, no drama's now. Left side looking decent these days Interior looking good. Right side, yeah, attention magnet, Otherwise, it's running all good. No major new. Replaced tyres all round with 215/45s. Been killing more parts and replacing with GTR parts. Being driven alot more now, which is good. Making very good progress on prep work on the other project...must go take some pics and update that other build thread. PS EDIT: Also I take back what I said about the new gearbox...it whines, alot....like a supercharger..the gear shifts aren't THAT great...I'm downgrading it from "awesome RB20 gearbox" to "above average but not great RB20 gearbox"
  8. I thought you bought it off a guy in SA...my bad. Pics of rubber splatter!!
  9. I've got 33 R wheels as well, they're 17 x 9, not 9.5. You running any spacers? I run 1 degree camber, stock guards, slammed and the only rubbing is on the coilover at high speeds up front, and I'm running 225s. Sometimes the rears rub on the guards if I'm not carefull when reversing out driveway...they're 235s, and not sure of camber, more than the fronts. Getting 215s all round tomorrow, that might help a bit. Any idea's where yours are rubbing? I dont have any issues on full lock. Have you got the splash guards inside the wheel arches ? Care to pull more pics from previous owner's build thread? :P Specifically...the ones showing all the rubber on the side mirror.... haha
  10. They will clear, just. I've got 17x9 +30s, up the front, they sit flush with the guard, and about 3-5mm away from coilover, althought it can be more depending on the ride height. At high speeds, it rubs on the coilover, noticeable less when it's not slammed. http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp
  11. drink cooler went in the glove box, just a little pad thing that 2 cans sit in comfortable, dunno how it goes about cooling them, can probably by the same thing now days that plugs into cigarette lighter. Didn't know AWD was made in 93. Just looked up your topic in the members rides section. Your headlights are definately earlier series. 93 = series 3. Yours has S3 taillights (red border, not black). All series 3 had non-clear headlights. Atleast, going by these old sales brochures I scored cheap off Yahoo.
  12. They go inside the front bumper. They're clear instead of orange, like all the sick JDM Ceffies you see in JDM Land. $80 + shipping. They sell for $150 (pair) on Yahoo. PM me.
  13. Series 1 (88-) Grandpa checkered black and cream interior standard. Front bumper has a centre opening and two equal sized openings to the sides, seperate to the main opening. Grille is clear, has bars matching the headlights and consists of two equal sized openings. Taillights are the old 80s looking style with ribs on the outside. Clear Projector headlights, low beams and high beams on independant projectors. Series 1A (89)-, same as above, interior was grey or brown as standard, as with series 1 it had other materials available but atleast the standard material wasn't shit. Bumper is a single opening (equal to the size of all three openings of S1) Grille is a single opening (letterbox style), matt black. Series 2 (90-) As S1a, Better interior again as standard Centre console and interior 'refined' (smooth single piece centre console on auto's) Bumper is same as S1a, The side rubber bumpers and the curve towards the bottom of the doors and quarter panel are different shape and at different level. Taillights are smooth flat surface type, with black border. Half clear headlights (clear except for over the projectors and fog lights themselves, which were glazed) Series 3 (91-94) Suede interior standard, As S2, Bumper is smooth type, has less ridges and curves, the indicators sit lower, etc Similar tail-lights to S2, but red border. Normal (non-clear) headlights, high/low beams combined filament. Grille is the black mesh/chrome centre type, similar to A32. Series 2 and 3 were available in AWD (Turbo+Auto only) (1990 and 1992) Series 3 was available in RB25DE (non-VCT) Series 3 had bullshit luxary spec, woodgrain trim, electric leather seats, 6 stacker cd player, alarm, rear air con, drink cooler, blow job while you drive, etc That's about all I can remember off the top of my head.
  14. A31 Series 2 Taillights with globe holders and harness plug, CHEAP (for now, 7 days remaining) http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d116793068&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img381.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/6/5/3/3/kk5725230259-thumb-1305357569940736.jpg&title=A31
  15. I saw the title of the thread, and I was like, pffft, easy I was going to rant about how only tossers roll in 34s...but when you mentioned WRXs, damn son, get the 34....you'll see way more boobs.
  16. I've been using them for over a year now, and no drama's, they feel exactly the same this afternoon as they did the day I installed them. A bit better than the factory ones if you ask me...just lift the hood a couple of inches and it'll extend all the way up by itself. Likewise if you push it down halfway and let go, it doesn't slam onto the radiator support, it goes down gently.
  17. Wow nearly 2 months. OK so that leak after all the effort turned out to be 2 hairline cracks in the gearbox. Upon pulling the gearbox off, I decided to check the clutch....basically, it was NASTY. Inside of the clutch worn down 1-2mm more than the rest...the pressure plate had alot less pressure than it should have, and the pic of the flywheel speaks for itself. I think the clutch wear was an effect of incorrect thrust bearing size. That got replaced with a 32 GTR clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. Gearbox got replaced with another R33 RB20E Gearbox, with 70xxx KMs on it. The shifts on this box feel even better than the last one (which internally was begining to wear out due to constant oil leak and bad clutch) In the process of changing all that the seal on the clutch slave let go, so I went brand new from Nissan. Something just upwards of $100 mark. On the first test drive, the radiator went...I didn't think anything of it, and was more concerned about the rattle @ 4500rpm + Ignorant me, figured it might've been a gearbox or clutch issue, decided to chuck my 50++mm tri-core ISC Alloy radiator in, and go for another spin. It turned out that "rattle" was an off balance fan warping in high revs, and there went a very good radiator. 2 Radiators in less than a 15 minute time frame. 7 fins ripped from the top tank, and being alloy, there isn't much I can do about it. With the week off, I tidied the car up some more. Fitted aftermarket weather sheilds. Fitted Series 3 R33 GT-R Seats (Pictures taken in low light to actually make seats appear as they are. Under camera flash / artificial lighting, the middle bit appears as it does in earlier pics). These rocked up in MINT condition. I got these landed for just under a grand ($600 in Japan + freight costs, etc), so it was already a steal, but the condition they're in is tip top. No fading, no bolster wear, no rips, not a single imperfection. Definately time to get tinted windows. As soon as the radiator and fan is replaced, HOPEFULLY that's it. I put in a bunch of job applications this week so with some luck this car will be daily driven again starting sometime in the next few weeks. Apart from the slight cooling issue, everything is running perfectly
  18. Yeah one of mine has metal rather than woodgrain (dunno what era/series' didn't have woodgrain, I thought they all did)...it was painted some weird brown color, I sanded it back and painted it gloss black, it's just a sheet of stainless steel that inserts into that trim piece. The woodgrain stuff isn't too bad, if you don't like it, it's only plastic, just sand it back and paint it.
  19. It's not something that would be optional, it's have to be standard then on all series' then.
  20. Ah it was indeed.Lights would've been standard on S3. The front door cards are direct fit for Ceffy, the rear's don't quiet fit cos of the different shape of C33 rear door. Damn pillarless-ness.
  21. ^^ Mint Cefiro like yours, your better off getting a Laurel dash with the other bits you need to make it fit. Easy, virtually same cost, and makes the car MUCH nicer. Done it to both of mine. Speaking of C33 Laurels. http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w59682231 4x C33 Laurel Door cars, retrimmed in leather. Late model, have lights on the front doors that light up when door is open (wire that up to the roof light)
  22. Yeah they'll fit but other models might have different fittings for the lines on the actual compressor itself. If buying try to get a pic of the fittings, and if they fittings appear different, as for the fitting / entire line as well if possible.
  23. Monroe Part# ML4371 I got them from Malz and yep $52.50 each. Straight fit, job was done in about 10 mins by myself. Big stick / something to hold weight of bonnet, 12mm to take the factory struts off, 13mm to put the new ones one (bolt size is different, but again, they're a direct fit, no stuffing around). Nissan genuine ones can't be rebuilt for some reason, to do with their odd seal design or some shit.
  24. 150 is pretty damn good. I bought brand new aftermarket ones from local auto store for $105. So genuine Nissan for $150 is very good indeed.
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