Jay95R33

Doc, I've replied to your post on SDU (I shudda checked here first !!). Just wondering what the dimentions are including the end tanks and the bottom pipe. Thanks jayson

I changed mine a few months ago. I used Castrol VMX80 (I think that's what it's called). The difference is great - very impressed. For the R33 GTS-t's you'll need close to 4lt. For the R32 GTS-t's you'll need about 2lt I think. J

To wear a clutch in you just drive it calmly for about 500km. A friend of a friend had a vibration in his clutch after someone replaced it one day - this is going back 5 years - and it ended up being that when they put the preasure plate back on they used a rattle gun and tore the head off one of the bolts !!!! The mis balance made it vibrate at a certain RPM !!! BTW: I'm not trying to make you paranoid

Holly snapping duck $hit Batman. I got given a stock GTS-t cooler !!! I just had to pay for postage !!! Anybody want to buy it. It's going for a bargin price of... Ummm $800 !! Just jokes.. I suppose if I really needed one, then I would've paid $300 too to get my car drivable again. J

Anybody got a stock R32 GTS-t ECU they want to flog off?? Thanks Jayson :burnout:

Is this what your after?? http://www.users.bigpond.com/jayson77/ PM me if you've got any questions. Jayson

This will be an intresting watch. From what I saw on the preview, they have got one/a few of the blokes that have been illegally drag racing in the Gold Coast area and putting them through their paces on the track to see if they really can handle a car at speed. The preview showed a bloke loosing control and knocking over a handful of witches hats.... :lol: :lol: I dare say the video and audio footage will be edited to suit the TV station, but it would still be good to watch. J

I just got $1490 using the online doova, compared to $1380 which is what I paid in April. Not too bad. But next year I might do another hunt around to try and get a cheaper price. J

I don't know of any tuners in Canberra. I'm sure theres a few around, but from what I've read around, it's worth the trip to Sydney. Yepp, well Silver anyway pretty close to grey

Sweet.... Should knock a few tenths off your 1/4 time hay. J

MarkZ, Do you have the link to the online quotes for SunCorp? I'm with them, 1995 R33 GTS-t with mods, 32 years old rating 1, $1380 per year. It would be funny to see what the online thing gives me... J

Is this the dreded flat spot of the R33's? I noticed mine does it the worst when I'm cruising at 80 or so, then drop it back to 3rd and floor it. It hessitates, then takes off. I remember there was a longish thread about it on SDU, and the general consenses was that the stock ECU was retarding the timing for some reason (too much air flow?). Don't know, but it's a pain in the butt....

With the R33 ECU's the chip is read only - can't be re-mapped. BUT - you can (and they do) install daughterboards with a seperate EPROM that can be tuned. Personnally I wouldn't bother about sending a ECU to Japan to get retuned. One thing to remeber - how would HKS in Japan know if your injectors can only run at 80% safely? Do the places in Japan know that our 98RON fuels tend to differ slightly, which could be the difference between detonation or not? Do the places in Japan know what the climate is in Canberra, or in Darwin? There's a big temp difference there !!! And I'm sure that would effect the tuning. I've been with Hitman the famous Haltec tuner, while he has tuned a car. And he has done a amazing job. BTW: The Hitman does work all around the world - so why send something O/S when it can be done a few hours away? There is one bloke on the performance forums that has found a good tuner in Sydney(?) that can tune daughterboards for the R33 computer, basically you just need a ROMReader. Just my 2c. J

Yeah, it's a display of some sort. Find the wires and follow them and see where they go. The thing on the roof is a air freshener thingy. They were great for heavey smokers

You don't have to send them o/s either. Have a look in the for sales section. R32 ECU's can be remapped for the R32's and even modified to suit the R33's.

HR Manager and part time male prostitute.

My system is REALLY starting to show it's age. But I've squeezed the most out of it.. Athlon 900 KT-7 Raid board 256 ram 30 gig Seagate 7200rpm drive Pioneer DVD Sony Burner 10/100 IBM Ethernet card 32meg Geforce 2 card SB PCI 128 sound card External V.90 modem 17 inch digital monitor It still plays SOF2 multiplayer over the net good, so I might be able to drag out upgrading for a few more months

Shik, The cost for the Canberra-Gold Coast trip for the one I sent a few days ago was $10.40. But I'm pretty sure that it would be that price nation wide cause they are so light. J

Leon, Cool, I'll hold on to one if you want me too, J

Here's that link. Not sure if it will help any, but worth a read. http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

Hmmm, Wheel bearings? But I think they give off a whirl noise when they go. Maybe check the universal joint at the drive shaft/diff ?? You know that yoke thing at the diff. Good luck J

Yepp, no problems. Have a look here: http://www.users.bigpond.com/jayson77/ It's funny cause I closed my Bigpond account a few months ago, but my old web site is still working !!! BTW: Just remember that the pics are of the metal partition I made, but the foam one is the same design, just foam backed with heat reflective foil instead of metal. J

BTW: I have a link at work that talks about the Tomie HICAS lock, if I can I'll post it up.

I'm not 100% sure but I think there is more to it than that. The Tomei HICAS lock (I've got one, he he he) has brass shimms that need to be installed in the hicas system somewhere. You can see them in the picture above. Now I honestly have no idea where or why they put them in, but I'm sure it's for a reason. I've never driven a R33 with HICAS hard, so i can't compare, but I know mine is very predictable when sideways J

Leon. Have you driven your car with the pod on yet? It makes a great sound hay The partition is relativly easy to put on, if your handy with a spanner you'll have no problems. You'll need to take the pod off to put the partition on. And if your fussy you could take the cross over pipe off too. But the easiest way would to make a small cut at the botom of the foam partition so you can slip it around the pipe. Then run a bead of silicon around the edge of the partition where the top sits on. This will seal it and keep it in place. I'm not sure how much you've driven your car with the pod on, but you'll notice that if your stopped at the lights for a few minutes and then take off fast, the car will be sluggish for the first bit, this is cause it's breathing in hot air which slows the car down. Using this it will breath colder air from around the headlight. All up it would take about 30 minutes to put in. I can send you a few more pics if you want to check it out. Jayson