Kinkstaah

The dynamite has in fact, gone boom. So, whos the go-to guy for re-assembling an engine with a minimum amount of fuss, quick turnaround and/or a minimum amount of utter bullshit? Is there even anyone anymore?

but.... it didn't det on the dyno... I was wearing knock ears... so was trent.. it .. IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN GOOD GOD DAMNIT GOD DAMNIT

Dat E85! Never pings, never fouls Destroy a plug with evidence of pinging and fouling.

Testing boost. (cant seem to crack gate... ever) Developed misfire. Shit.

Sorry, I was referring to Turbos which can only be mounted up top as they're too big to physically fit low mounted... doing that on a stock motor is usually ill-advised! On that note, anyone know if you can fit a Precision 6466 down low?

You can do what you are asking for.. with the stock manifold. It's also far less likely to break. It is certainly not stainless still made in china. It will flow 500hp at the fly. The reason you go high, is really to fit turbos that don't really fit down low. Turbos which provide far more than 500hp at the fly, on engines that have already been rebuilt to support it.. You already have the solution to your problem

Your clearance may or may not work depending on the manifold you have, as it isn't a stock one.. But with a standard manifold you can fit a 3582 down there. My car has a GTX3076R but doesn't actually need a spacer at all to get it to fit. Going to depend entirely on your non-stock manifold though, would have to test fit or take measurements as that kind of changes everything..

That's the thing, I'm pretty certain something is cut or unplugged or what have you. Happened since an engine swap . Was looking for info as to where everything should be, the only thing I have to go on is the pinout diagram on the SRS ECU behind the handbrake, which is I guess what I'll have to do It was working prior to the engine/transmission swap, would be odd for an entire module to just go missing.. but was trying to find info on where it would be... Probably! The epic autoelec did try and read this, but it didn't actually throw an error, which according to the workshop manual says voltage to the system is under 9v Which could easily mean a wire is snipped........somewhere

in all seriousness holocaust stuff isn't funny, its only funny because of how absurd and so on it is, and its that absurdity that is the funny part anyhow, Airbag wasn't triggering on car prior to it receiving my original engine and transmission and ECU's. It is now. However, the SRS system is supposedly a self-contained system/unit with its own sensors, wires, and so on. Changing an engine shouldn't trigger it from what I can see going by the workshop manual. Everything is that distinctive yellow, and there's a plug where the stock audio is, except this one is bright yellow. However it terminates short and there's nothing obvious to plug it into. Unsure if unfortunately coloured or god knows what. Dunno if its even for the airbag, but its suspicious because nothing else was altered and the system won't even enter diagnostic mode to give me flashing lights to find out whats wrong with it all. Given this mystery plug is behind the head unit figured someone may have seen it before when they do something like... change a head unit which is pretty much done in every single skyline in australia

No, it was at very low speed and hit it at the rear... and this is an entirely different car now.. Door button trick doesn't do anything. (wont go from 'user mode' to 'diagnostic mode') Nissan say that it wont go from user mode to diagnostic mode if battery voltage is under 9V. Battery voltage is 12.5v. There's also a god damned mystery yellow plug behind where the head unit goes. There's nowhere to plug this in. Anyone? lol.

fark that's bad whats considerably worse than the holocaust is a flashing airbag light autoelecs attempt and fail, recommend replace items that aren't broken (replaced anyway) Nissan workshop manual is inconclusive and provides not-possible diagnostic results google fails sau fails genocide is preferable

The blitz return FMIC kit will flow that much. I know this as I have that much and it flows it. It supposedly fits on a R33 as well as a R34.

I did this (to test something, I since have got a cat) and the only thing I noticed was a slightly different, more 'tinny' sounding note from the exhaust. The sound difference was negligible, and I don't think it was any 'louder' as opposed to just being slightly, slightly different note. I noticed no flames and/or popping but I'm on E85 and the tune wasn't set up for that, so it's not like an automatic thing that flames literally explode out the exhaust the second you remove the cat. I also didn't notice that "noticeable smell" that people refer to all the time with a cat removed - but I was on e85 which has its own noticeable smell to begin with.

Just incase someone finds this via google...or search.. All the headlight support parts (the black bits) are different on a S2 and S1 R34. The "Reo Bar" is the same, though. Here's my crap picture: http://imgur.com/nGuVPJ5 RED = DIFFERENT BITS ON S2 AND S1 (there's another under-headlight bracket on the side that isn't viewable obviously) GREEN = SAME PART ON S1 AND S2 R34. THIS IS THE BIT PEOPLE USUALLY CUT TO FIT FMICS. Hence the "is the reo the same on s1 or s2?" depends on what people mean by "reo" as the entire thing (reo+headlight supports) is often referred to as "a reo bar"

What you need is the headlight supports. (the black bits). The reo bar, the actual big massive metal bit in the middle is the same part for series 1 and 2. The headlight supports are different. A lot of people refer to the headlight supports as "the reo bar" or part of the whole assembly, so the whole "is it the same or different" can both be answered with "Yes" depending on who you ask. (and of course I have a front bar and reo for sale but its all series 2 )

Nope, there's no option on the stalk to engage foglights etc. Guess it's back to the drawing board as to the 'whyyyyyyyyyyyy' they don't work then.

It could be actually, that's what I'm not entirely sure of. I've found it hard to find out what the problem actually is, or an exact wiring diagram of how indicators are wired in.. it not being a fog light equipped car would explain why there's a missing plug and a loom which has no obvious disconnected plug attached to it...

..... warning button? I should state that the hazards work, the fuse is not blown, and there's actually very much a missing plug connected to the stalk. There's 2 of three things connected there and I'm pretty certain if I had a working R34 I'd pull the plug out and see if indicators continued to work... because everything else on the stalk works except indicators

Anyone ever have a look at an indicator/lights stalk on a 34? Is it shared with anything? Looks to have 3 plugs. One is missing. Indicators don't work. Except there's nothing on the loom that's unplugged. Only thing recently removed was a Turbo timer. The turbo timer had exactly 0 plugs involved with it at all. What in the actual f**k.

I'm sure there's plenty of different shades of boring shit to amazingly out there. People just take note of the super blah beige personality and the extreme opposite of that (probably due to rebelling against option 1) of the chick with pink hair going all out stereotype. There's got to be in betweens, but so normal that they're just you know... normal people...

Literally have never been involved with an Asian in any way, nor likely to be... Guess I'd better strap on that Hi-vis and buy a jetski or something..

400, because, 400 is better than $500, for you! Also because shed is filling up with other R34 bits, and I'd rather park a car there.

FWIW when I tested my wideband (in the cat housing just before the mesh) vs the Dyno's one at Chequered tuning, there was literally no difference in what they were reading, so the difference between the Cat and the exhaust pipes at the back of the car is near-zero.

True enough for anything over 100kmh with a power run. The 97% of the driving you use a street car for however can be done with a wideband and some tinkering. The power runs is what the dyno is for but that is really only a small fraction of the time (money!) it takes for a tuner to tune the car, but I agree - it's no dyno replacement.

Widebands are the best. I also thought my car was running rich. Bought wideband. Observed AFR. Changed fuel maps to suit. Car running correctly. See also: Got tune. Cold start was terrible. Idle was terrible (17:1). Made 30 seconds of changes. Car running correctly. See also: Car tuned on E85. Corrections for 98 not entirely right (known). Get E58 or something in tank after tank swap. Made 15 seconds of changes in correction map. Car running correctly. See also: Changed injectors from 1000cc to 1400cc. Car not running correctly. Made 2 minutes of changes to fuel map. Car running correctly. GET A WIDEBAND