Kinkstaah

Well it's good to know if I manage to sell the engine, the rest of the bits should sell in approximately 0.001 of a second. I'd probably take less than 12 for the engine. When I say "engine" mean everything connected to the engine but not including the turbo and anything from that point onwards. I do realise that not many people just cart around that kind of money for an engine unless they were about to pull the trigger on their own build. I have receipts for parts only inside that thing for considerably more than that. Given it'd cost $0 to assemble it, as it's already going tis technically a good deal, but at the same time, yeah, building any engine is an expensive venture. If all else fails, I just need to see someone selling an auto R34 GT-FOUR and I'll just drop both cars off at Scottys place......

My car didn't even have HICAS

Hi Everyone, attempt 2 at posting this thread. Tip: Don’t be trawling Wasteland threads and post something right before alt-tabbing back and trying to post a for sale thread that’s massive. TLDR: Buy the engine that did this, thanks. Rest of complete setup for sale if you or someone does. Can just bolt it into a R33 or R34 GTT and save moneys (like, everything). Obviously could put the engine anywhere you can put a RB25. Very negotiable if you want to buy the entire thing and bolt it or re-sell it or what have you. https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning/posts/718855688158365 I recently ‘finished’ my R34 setup, finally, after about 6 years of crap. Then I drove it into an Embankment at low speed and bent the chassis and pretty much nothing else, so everything in this list is 100% working and very near new. However, it was enough to write off the chassis. I will only separate parts if the engine is sold. If the engine is not sold, I’ll get the lot put back into a different shell. In this way I’m letting rajab decide whether I go GTT or something else. Note: In car and running, can physically show you if in Victoria. Engine: BC 2.9L Stroker Kit http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238 Tomei Type B Poncams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear Nitto Custom Forged Pistons Ported/Polished Head (unsure on exact flow. clearly works though, and can see the exhaust side is slightly larger than stock manifold ports) Spitfire Coilpacks JUN Oil Pump New Gaskets, Bearings when rebuilt New Idler, Tensioner, Timing, Water Pump when rebuilt Cometic 1.8mm Metal Head Gasket ARP Head Studs Xspurt 1400cc Ethanol Injectors Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV EARLS Fuel Filter Totally legal in Vic. Totally legal anywhere else, too. Vicroads will give you no problems with this. Engine has done 15,000kms since built. As before, can see running. Has been 1 day since dyno runs. Yes, I bent the chassis the day after. This was sad. I have all the reciepts, emails back and forth, all the info you're likely to want, though really the proof is in the dyno sheet. Seems to love timing (running a lot, no pinging) Seems to love boost (running a lot, no pinging or weirdness) It's about as solid as any engine you'll ever get built by someone who doesn't call themselves "Nissan" It also won't take 6 months of stuffing around, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting and so on to be built, put together, put in the car, run in, etc. It's all done. Put it in and drive. If you buy the ECU and Turbo and everything else as its for sale, you won't even need a damn tune. Ever. lol I'd love $12k for it. I'm negotiable. That seems like a high number. If you like, google the parts listed above and ask your local engine builder for a quote on labour. Then add the cost of waiting for it to all arrive, be put together and so on. It's OK. I'll wait. But I'm pretty negotiable if need be. But not stupidly so. 3k will not get you this engine and I'll just buy a stock auto GTT sedan for about $3 and get it all put in there and get back to 330RWKW at 3500 RPM. Lets entertain the thought that someone buys the engine. If so, everything below this sentence is also for sale. it's also very new. Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 (this is a glorious ECU) Haltech Wideband CAN Controller (controls AFR on the fly, 200 times a second. Has stuff built in to stop it doing weird things and blowing your engine. You can also set it to max adjust like 1% if you're super worried). Not that you need it, because the tune in the ECU had this OFF when it got the AFR mentioned on the Chequred tuning link. Full E-Flex sensor. Put whatever you want in the tank, man. Garrett GTX3076R Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm - This is welded onto the turbine housing. This setup clearly works. If you hate it, you could always put on a kando housing for $200 and mount this wherever you want with whatever manifold you want. Walbro 460 LPH Fuel Pump - complete with super wiring! Scotty Custom dump+screamer made by the venerable scotty nm35 - 2x45 degree stainless bends instead of the usual 90. Goes to 5in cat. So much flow! Has seperate 2in screamer which could be plumed back into the cat if you ask nicely. I was going to do this, but maaaay have found myself making this thread instead. Shit. Suspension and Grip things Front and Rear Bilstein Shocks Eibach front and rear main springs. Eibach rear helper springs Coil over kit x4 so you can raise or lower the height and be fully sick if you so wish (I didn't) Custom Front Strut Tops - Allows more travel in the front. Just incase joe cop decides to push down on your bonnet. Or say, you go over a bump. Whiteline Caster Kit Whiteline Front Camber kit Whiteline Rear Camber Kits x 2 Bump Stop Kits X 2 R34 Series II Helical Diff and half shafts - Someone said these were rare. Works well! Rear Subframe alignment kit (pineapples - they work!) Whiteline 24mm Front Sway Bar (BNF24Z) Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar (BNR11XXZ) Heavy Duty Swaybar Links for the above Brand new Nitto NT05 Tyres - 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 on F/R respectively. Ok, they've done maybe 100kms. Autech 8piston 356MM Front brake kit. People talk bla bla bla about suspension all the time, but I was able to go WoT in 1st gear (auto, remember, 1st gear is a bit longer) with dyno results posted above and not lose grip. I would say its worth spending the money and not getting BC's and would do it again. Or you could save half the cost and buy mine. If you buy my engine. Which is again, saving a lot. I also have a really, really, really built Auto transmission for aforementioned R34. I know you're reading, yawning, thinking "man, lolz, auto" but it has its own ECU, two transmission coolers, and is connected to the paddles on the R34 steering wheel. Touch the button, insta shift goodness. Touch the button when you're cruising around town, insta shift smoothness you can't feel. Do it at 7000RPM at WoT and you may or may not need spine surgery. But considering you fell asleep reading that sentence about automatic transmissions, whatever, buy the engine. Or not. May seem like a lot, cost a lot more to begin with. Be financially responsible by buying the fruits of my financial irresponsibility! PM me, PM me now!

did, page loads, no text.

f**k, the above post got in the way of my massive for sale post, rendering it un-posted. (you must wait 17 seconds to post!) There goes 2 hours of my life.

Some things in life should never be repeated. (I will probably use a GTT shell next time if no one buys my engine)

It appears I was not the first to see, explaining my lack of amazement

I drove a 210-220 kw Evo X (I know, not the same car) and it was like night and day. If you want to drive on the street enthusiastically, you're going to have a great time going around curvy roads in one. You could also do it in a GTR, you're just going to need to give it more RPM. Given your first post, I think you're going to enjoy an Evo far more. Find someone who has one and ask to ride shotgun and you'll know within about five seconds whether its your thing or not.

Bigger is always better with Injectors Mr Platts. Why wouldn't you want 450FWKW in the Micra? Why not use them on half duty cycle? How lovely that would be. Longevity and shit!

As the topic would suggest, I have a set of Xspurt/Bosch/EV14/id1000 injectors for sale. The only difference between the above is who seems to sell them. They're all the same injectors. These ones are Xspurts, which are sold locally in AU, and are flow matched and such. (they're what scotty sells, exactly what he sells, because that's where I got them) I used these for about 5000kms without issue. I only replaced them because I THOUGHT they ran out of flow, but it turns out it was a bad fuel filter. (really.) I'm looking for $500 for the set of 6. I can negotiate within reason. These are the 3/4, 14mm length style, so they'll fit in a variety of different cars. How to fit id1000's into XYZ will yield you info on whatever you want to put them in to! Please send a PM on forums, I reply to these super quick. I'm in VIC - Can deliver them if you want, otherwise can post them if you're happy to have them posted out. Greg

This is perfect for street! (and you can even get grip in auto's 1st! - which is somewhere between 1st and 2nd) FWIW, I wrote this car off due to driving entirely off boost, entirely off throttle, making about 3rwkw. You can drive anything on the street. It's the driver, not the car people.

Inb4 Greg dies

Should I mention the previous two owners died shortly after selling it? Should I mention my daily shitty Camry's previous owner also died shortly after selling it too? Unsure if I have killed it, or the curse is getting extremely crafty, after I refuse to sell and pass it on. I've said many times over the years "if I could do it all again, I would have got a GTR for 11 million reasons" and now the hand of god literally reaches from the earth to push the reset button.....

Go to Vicroads Sight new engine number. That's all there is to registering it, as I've done that part before... You'd replace every part though. Engine, Transmission, re-wire both ECUs, diff, half shafts, rear suspension, fuel pump, fuel pump wiring/relays, Radiator, Gauges. I mean its doable, sure. Its just a lot of hours. Hours that a workshop charge a lot of money for, if you want it done right. I asked scotty about it and even he said "its doable but I'd have to hire someone, have you got quotes from other workshops?" which is all for.... a massively EPA'able (though well hidden) auto sedan, vs a car built up from the ground to be a 4WD performance car. That said, I'd have all the stock bits to pass an EPA, as I'd have a lot of spares with, you know, an entire spare car... I have a 95% hate, 5% love relationship with this thing. I think I need to go for a spin in a well sorted GTR to see what the differences really are, as I can only compare it to a Stagea, a S15 with about 260rwkw, and a 1979 BMW, and an Evo X, none of which are similar. The Evo X (210kw) did make me think I've been doing the wrong thing the entire time. Said Evo X driver said he disliked the Evo and really wanted his R33 GTR back, leading me down this path of "sensible" decisions.

I'd need it confirmed to believe it. Still, many downsides to going the tried and true fashion. I do not expect smooth sailing, ever. ever!

It got statutarily (whatever) written off. I did the math on whats actually in it, and how much the parts would cost if say, you were to buy them new. (99% of the parts on my car are new or very unused). That number was about $35,000 in just parts. (obviously selling them at 1/2 of new price to actually you know, sell them) The wreck kind of didn't cost that much. I kind of want something that will be EPA proof, I like 4WD for grip under power, and everyone always goes on about how manual is what you need to succeed in life, even though anyone who tried the auto thought it was suprisingly good. I see limited logical options. Other option is buy this: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1999/SSE-AD-2098166/?Cr=7&sdmvc=1 And put everything in there. But "putting everything in there" is a huge amount of time, effort, or money, and it's still smoke and mirrors hiding from the EPA, as opposed to having the same power (and basically same lag) and not needing to hide turbos. 5k in suspension in my r34 to obtain grip in the rear (which worked very well admittedly) or traction control via front driveshaft. How much would it really cost to transplant 100% of a car into another one anyway? 5k? So 13K total (in this example) which still leaves me ahead. But less ahead than buying someone's forged GTR as per here: (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444348-r33-97-gt-r-v-spec-series-3-29000/?hl=%2Br33+%2Bforged#entry7310159) or (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/439783-r33-gtr-vspec-forged-engine/?p=7211282) ...and selling the wreck. ofc if noone wants the engine, I'll have to put it in something. Shit is definitely doing my head in right now

That's the thing, and being polite as possible.... .....anything you have done up to now is easier than going (legally) turbo. going (legally) turbo requires a full engine swap in Victoria. this means you also need to fit GTT brakes (I got away with R33 GTST brakes, as they fit the NA R34 (gtt is different) this means you're also likely to need a different gearbox (ultimately) this means you're also likely to need a different diff (dat N/A open diff) this means you'll need a different ECU this means you may or may not need different looms because new things exist/old things don't. My problems all started because I got sold a NA+T which I had mistakenly thought was a GTT (new to skylines at the time). "I'll just modify it to get what I had paid for" as chasing up the seller wasn't feasible at the time/was considerably later on/seller was dead. This isn't a path you want to go down. Sell the car/drive a factory GTT and you'll be like, um, yeah, this takes exactly zero labor for a wildly better, factory result that needs exactly no involvement. But hey if you want, I'm trying to sell my wreck. feel free to buy all my parts, but you'll immediately decide its wildly expensive, even if you DIY. "There's got to be an easier way" you'll think, which is simply to buy the GTT and retrofit or enjoy its different body kit or what have you.

Why flush it at all, just buy my complete transmission which is now for sale!

yep. Anyone can service it. All you 'need' to do is add it at the rate you're losing it, easier said than done lol. Also, anyone want to buy a forged RB28Neo? Now with actual seriousness.

Let it go, the car is most likely what you want it to be - perspective is required. You just don't know it yet as you haven't gone turbo. Lets be completely clear here, in the nicest possible way - Anything you've done to your N/A can be done to the Turbo car. All the hassle of doing this, moving bits over is FAR LESS than trying to turbo your N/A. Especially if you want to do it legally (which is an engine swap, ecu swap, brakes swap, in other words... you're replacing all the car bits except the chassis) SO what do you want to do Replace some wheels, or interior bits.. or replace the entire guts of the car to make it... uh... a turbo car. Its far easier to replace the car, and believe me when you do it, you keep finding little "non turbo bits" that aren't the same as the turbo bits. These appear often, dumb things like plugs, different wiring which may not be turbo spec, random bits you buy online you find don't REALLY fit when you are told they should. It's a pain, a stupid constant pain you live with. People saying "sell it and buy a turbo" aren't being dismissive - They've heard it time and time again. Same with people who end up putting rb26's in GTS4's etc, it's always "just save and buy the GTR" It's all about saving on headaches in the future which will occur. Far bigger headaches and heartaches then selling and buying a car that's already made.

DTM autos in geelong know how to do this (from experience) Long way, but hey I lived in Hawthorn and went there.. I don't think there's a way to do it 'easily' though, it essentially needs to be running to flush the fluid out, and continually have new fluid put into it until everything inside it is new fluid. So if it holds 7.5L of fluid, you'll be using 10+ for a full flush as you can obviously never run the auto with zero fluid in it

I have done it from start to finish. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't. Don't, Don't. Just sell and buy a turbo car. Seems like a hassle? Its far, far less hassle than going the alternate direction.

How about a RB28 R34 auto*? *-- may be in pieces. * require some assembly If I were in NSW I'd be looking at this, and I'm damn surprised it hasn't sold yet.

Thing is, everyone seems "ok" with the gearbox "constantly" failing. Is it not a big deal to get it rebuilt? Is it worth going for smaller turbos (-9/GTSS) to specifically avoid this weak point?

As someone considering going GTR this thread concerns me. 380/450kw on e85 is a lot more common and smahed gearboxes appear to be a very constant issue. Is it as bad as this thread suggests? With so many failures over so much time, has anyone 'fixed' this pre-emptively?