KrazyKong

I've heard this too and always thought that to be the case. But it's not always so. Sometimes the numbers don't line up so good and the miles are genuine.

I would take the door trims off and look where the felt pads are touching/supporting and guiding the glass. Over time dirt and grit can harden them, and the friction increases against the window. I'm not sure how to make them better, but I know in my car, the one I did take out, I cleaned in hot soapy water and it's softness and fluffness came back. It wouldn't hurt to check the mechanism that winds the window up either. Quite possible it's low on grease and needs some attention.

Ended up getting the whole dash out. Then proceeded to replace the noisy motor. I took the airbag fuses out of course and disconnected the battery. Then upon firing it up, the sweet noise of nothing. No horrible tock tock tock sound, well so far anyway. I hope I have damaged anything from my earlier venture of trying to get the fan and condenser boxes out before I realized they were attached via pipes from the engine bay. Time will tell. Knowing my luck, I fix something minor only to break something more important. The light ran out so had to close up the car for the night. But first thing tomorrow, will then attempt to put it all back together again. I'm hoping to be able to peer inside the fan and condensor box to see if there is indeed a loose nut or washer that has been making this sound for ages. But so far I'm not sure how on earth it's possible, as both boxes don't seem to be removable without major headaches with piping, A/C gasses etc.

After spending 4 hours on this today and having nothing to show for it, to say I'm in a bad mood is an understatement. I don't know how you guys managed this, but in my car there is simply no room to manouever my hands let alone be able to remove the noisy motor. So right now I'm just going to take the whole dash off. I feel dizzy and nautious from my neck being creaked and looking up into that gap. This is not an easy task for a S2 with airbags. Do this at your peril or you'll find yourself getting to the stage you'll want to willingly break something.

Not when changing gears. It's an auto btw too. It stalls when coasting, or having lifted off the accelerator pedal. So it could be coasting to a stop at some lights, waiting to pull in your driveway as the gate is opening etc.

I saw a 4 door R33 Skyline yesterday in Brisbane that had a lining of the inside of the bootlid itself. It covered the boot and entended over the lock as well. It looked like there were 20-30 plastic clips holding it in place. The fabric was the same felt/plastic stuff or whatever it is, that the rest of the boot lining parts have on it. Searching around I found some reference to someone in the UK stating they are rare. My car never had one, and I'd not seen it in anyones pictures. Does anyone here have it? If so, can you post a picture of it. I'm going to try and find one for my car. Hoping it will dampen down the road and rattles noises that come from the boot.

You still after some outer tie rod ends? I've found a source for some R33 GTS-T ones. But I don't know if they are the same as the GTR ones.

There is play in my front left tie rod. Looks like it's the outer end or the ball and socket that is moving around. Always heard a sound there, and after 3 wheel alignments you'd figure they'd let you know you got play in your steering tie rods Not sure on the make, but found this front outer tie rod end for skyline online. Duncan you mention the most likely to wear is the inner end which is this one right? What is the recommended thing to do. To just replace the part that is worn (in my case the front left outer tie rod end... I think ), or do both outer's and both inners all at the same time, then get the car aligned??

Isn't the 40th Anniversay Edition R33 in Midnight Purple as well? Over a year ago, I went to an import car yard and they had 3 R33s. All beat and worn. They were GTS-Ts though.

Replaced the stock fuel pump in my R33 the other week. Had troubles with fuel leakage and ended up sorting that out. The fuel pump was a working pull from another car, but not sure how long it sat outside the car. It's the Walbro 294 one that was already mounted in the braket. So the actual fitting part was simple. But I'm not left with this very high pitched whine noise at both idle and an even louder noise at load. Have been told, duh! that's because it was sitting around and dried out before I bought it. Others have also said that the aftermarket fuel pumps will be noiser. I havn't put anything else into the car like a fuel pressure regulator or an SAFC. Whatever is stock in a R33 SII Auto is what I still have in mine. Car has stalled a few times when lifting off the gas and say coasting to some red lights. Those times it started right back up again. Fuel usage seems not so good to me. In fact my gut feeling is now my car is using more petrol than before. And the funny or sad thing is before I switched the fuel pump, my gas mileage got real good after being told to use BP 98 instead of the regular 91 octane stuff. Maybe I'm just imaging all of this, but I do know the car has stalled a few times after changing the pump. I don't know why. Also don't know why my gas mileage seems worse than before the change. I've checked countless times and the initial fuel leak when I first did the changeover has been fixed, so it can't be a leak. Also no smell either. So have a just wasted my time and money here? And suffice to say the working stock pump I pulled out, I've not had it sitting in any petrol either, so it's dried out as well. Now before anyone gets on my case, I've only just found out about all this, so I didn't know at the time I bought the pump, nor did I know to put my old stock on into some petrol.

Nice! That's a sweet ride. Make sure you get some security measures on that car pronto. 3 point immobiliser, another hidden kill switch, heck get a club lock too. Or to really be sure it's safe at night, put a wheel clamp on it. I like the rims on the car. Anything done to it, or is it pretty much stock?

I've got some of that Nulon Engine oil flush for my next change over. Was going to run some cheap mineral 20w50 with the flush, but decided it would be better to simply flush the semi synth I have in already. But after reading the last few replies, I'm now wondering if the engine flush stuff is bad for my engine. Is it? Or can it help as designed to flush out the old crap from the previous owner (Toyko Special) still left in there? Now I'm confused.

Bootz, do you have the R32 stock solenoid pictured here? (Pic looks like the engine is a 33 Rb25, but hopefully it's close enough you get the idea).

Hmmm, I want to track down the arteest who designed this masterpiece!

Isn't it a little odd that oil companies offer certain weights only in certain grades of oil? For instance Motul only offer 10w40 in the 300V Chrono or 4100 Turbolight, but there's no 10w40 in the 8100 series. Makes you wonder if in fact the oil itself is the same, but the weights are different and thus they brand it differently.

Me too. I'd like to know if anyone has been able to clean the inside of their headlights. Will this involve putting the lights in the oven to soften the glue and being able to open them? If so, then I don't feel confident in being successful. I'll probably melt the lights or something lol

I used to use the $10 20w50 GW oil in my previous car. It had a leak and burnt a bit, so really I could have used anything in it and it would have done the job. In my Skyline however no chance of that. The minimum for me would be a semi synth or a lower group "full synthetic". But ideally a proper genuine full synthetic and there are really only 3 options for that. Motul 300V Chrono, Royal Purple and Sougi S 6000. Yeah interesting how Gulf Western have this great product but it's not sold anywhere really, at least not in stores. The supplier I went to said they sell it on a slow but consistent basis for people like us I've been looking at GW's ATF fluid myself actually. You're talking about the Syntrans stuff? their fully synthetic one? It looks comparable to the other compatible ATF synthetics out there like the Nulon or Penrite stuff for well under half the price. Though the mack daddy of them all the Castrol Transmax Z is what I'd be interested to know how it stacks up against. Have you changed over to the GW ATF fluid yet? Would be interested to know how your car goes with it in.

What about the GReddy Informeter Touch? I havn't seen anyone on here mention it, but it looks pretty amazing.

The Gulf Western Sougi S 6000 is a real synthetic. And then you got Royal Purple as well. I'm going to do a flush this change. I bought some Nulon oil flush treatment stuff, and 5L of the cheapest oil I could get. Ended up buying a Drift oil filter as it looked better quality than the standard Ryco one. So once the flush is done, the new filter and Sougi will start doing good things in my car

Ah that's interesting on the Gulf 1 stuff. Yeah the weight wasn't right for me, but was just curious what it was all the same. I bought some Nulon engine oil flush stuff from Supercheap Auto. It says to run it for 10-15mins before changing the oil. Still havn't gotten a filter yet, but when I do, will do the oil change.

Purchased some Sougi S 6000 (5L) today for $60 on the Gold Coast If anyone else would like to purchase any, here are the details... Chris Burck 3/8 Telford Pl, Arundel QLD 4214 (07) 5529 0396 Google Maps There's plenty in stock and Chris was very helpful and accommodating. Chris also sells the M 5000 which is a semi synthetic (contains 30% polyol ester) in 5L bottles as well. Not sure on the price of this however. If the S 6000 is said to be on par with the Motul 300V Chrono, then the M 5000 would be in between the Motul 4100 Turbolight and 8100 Xcess? Birds, I also saw this oil as well. It's a 10w/60 full synth. Description said it can be used on racing/street cars, to farm equipment and all kinds of things in between. You know anything about this stuff?

Wondered that myself. Galois, are you referring to Oil Pressure, or Oil Temperature? I don't know where the pressure gauge is on the 34, but on the 33, it's the one on the far right of the dash cluster.

Well I do my best to research various parts in my car as well as oil . Have been over confident in the past and had that "I know all" attitude, and sometimes things havn't turned out right. Since I like my car, I'm taking my time to do it right. I'm going to get the Sougi S 6000 and give it a try. As far as the Tappets noise, it's only just started doing that. So either I'm just low on oil or I'm not sure, but it hasn't always been there, and I've done 9-10k so far in my car. The previous oil could have been thicker, but I recall the stock oil pressure gauge reading 4 alot sooner with that oil. Right now my Penrite HPR10, the oil gauge sits at 6 for awhile, then slowly comes down to 4. Sitting at lights, it then drops below 4. I don't recall the previous oil doing this. It just sat at 4 and didn't really move. I asked a local mod shop who do all kinds of works on imports and they said that was normal. For me it was just different, as the gauge readings for my first unknown oil and the Penrite were acting way different. Anyway, Will get the Sougi and pop it in. As far as the filter goes, is the Nissan one any better? or will it be the exact same as the cheap Ryco?

Are the headlights easy to take apart? I'm not looking to refit them like you guys, rather I want to buff them and get the yellow out. I've done the outside, but it's on the inside too. Options?

ok, thanks for the info. Will give it another shot. For the longest time, I've heard some sort of rattle up in my dash, and I could never find what it was. When I took a corner, about half way into the corner, I'd hear something sliding around. I have a hunch there might be a loose bolt or washer inside either the left circular fan box, or the condenser box. Is there anyway to actually open them and look inside? Other wise maybe it's in my passenger side door, but I the more I look at these boxes under the dash, I think it's inside of one of them.