KrazyKong

I still havn't seen it in a store yet. But Motul is hard to find anyway lol. Has anyone seen or got their hands on some 10w40 X-max yet?

Hibino, I ran Penrite HPR10 (10w50) for awhile and new within seconds it wasn't the right oil for my R33. I'm amazed still when I bring it up when I'm in Repco or Super Cheap and the sales guys still reckon the oil is fantastic. I might just be, but in my car it was horrible. It felt sluggish and the engine was noisy. When I switched to the fully ester synthetic Sougi 10w40, the car felt better than ever. The only Penrite I would try again is the Everyday 10w40. Everything else, imho the weights are all wrong. I know companies like to distinguish themselves from the competition, but Penrite oil weights don't make sense to me considering the climate and where we live.

Possible sure, but you have to remember alot of our cars are nearing 15+ years old. So if you flip the gear and have applied a nice amount of grease, I doubt it's going to break for years.

I'm looking forward to finding out more about the S6000 fully synthetic replacement. Definitely sounds promising, but I sure hope it's 10w40 too. GW in a way created this problem, and we've discussed this before. They never even bothered trying to promote Sougi. Had it been a top seller, I doubt they'd be getting rid of it. It should have been packaged better too with a black bottle and far slicker labeling. It just looked too ordinary for how good it was, and in no way stood out from their other products if sitting on the same shelf. The storage issue I guess sounded genuine, but I think the mixing one trumped it in the end. They could have raised the price of Sougi and I still would have bought it however. I guess for those of us who have some stock of Sougi, it might be comparable to that Seinfeld episode... is this car sponge worthy! haha If you want a genuine Nissan oil filter, you can try kudosmotorsports.com. I got one from there, though havn't used it yet. I'm using the Drift magnet filter currently. Apart from saying Nissan I doubt it's any better than the Ryco one. Grab from S6000 from Birds. It's as good as 300V for under the half the price.

MP_R33, Sougi S6000 or M5000 would be what I'd recommend. If you can't locate this oil, then what Moodles2 mentioned would work as well. However 300V is very expensive and more than double the price of Sougi. 300V doesn't come in a 5L bottle, so you have to purchase a 4L + 2L which will run you over $150. Repco's 20% off is a good way to save some $$, but unless you tracking your car and trashing it 300V is overkill as it's the top of the line oil. There are plenty of alternatives so I'd suggest you read this thread going backwards about 20-30 pages and you'll find out all you need to know on what others are using in their cars.

Removing the whole dash is easier than you think. I've done it a few times now. Once you know where all the screws are, the hardest part is taking the whole thing out without scratching things. I gave things a nice clean when I had it out and also fixed a few others. End result is no more noise from the frog motor and silence

Wasn't SYN-X already an existing product? I wonder if it was actually the same stuff as M5000. They seem very similar in descriptions. Now for some interesting news about Sougi, and why it got canceled. Birds mentioned in an old post many months ago, around the time we first heard of Sougi being discontinued, that it was due to GW not having enough storage to house it. But there was more to the story. The cost to produce it was simply too high. Creating a double ester blend of oil isn't cheap. But the main problem was actually using the ester. If the mixers and tanks were not cleaned properly and totally free of the ester, it would effect the next batch of oil. And by effect, I mean totally ruin other products mixed in the same equipment. The ester would turn the oil into a jello like substance. It would take the best part of a week to properly and thouroughly clean the equipment before other products could be mixed. Even a trace amount of ester left behind would cause problems. The end result is the ester based Sougi won't be made again. I know Andrew (from GW) mentioned sometime back things weren't set in stone, but unless they purchase equipment that exclusively mixes ester, Sougi is done for. Now the good news... GW are working on a new type of synthetic oil. It won't be double ester based however, but will be a fully synthetic oil. As I understand it, it's a new product that doesn't have a name yet. So it won't be the Syn X 3000 10w40 from what I can tell, but a new product. So there's hope yet that GW will produce a replacement product for Sougi. I was told this a few months back, so am not sure if this is still the case currently.

I've had part of my dash out for many months, and went to put it all back together today. I then discovered that my drivers side mirror will not fold in when I press the switch. The passenger side does however. But what's odd is if I manually move the mirror in, then press the switch, it will fold out! I've had a look at the connector in the door and sprayed it with some contact cleaner, also the mirror switch in the dash. Anyone have an idea what could be wrong? If it's the motor, wouldn't it just not work altogether, rather than opening but not closing? I put my ear to the mirror and I can't hear it even trying to close. So I wonder if there's a loose wire around perhaps. Anyway, hoping someone might have an idea what I can try next.

There's no harm in asking. Not when my heater core went... then my radiator going less then a few hundred kms later. And my cap isn't a stock one either, it's some aftermarket thing with Japanese writing on it. Thus I'm not going to assume anything, and instead felt it better to ask.

I rang Nissan today and they said the standard cap in their system for all R33's is a 0.9. So I guess that settles things. It appears Nengun.com have incorrect info on their listing in regards to non turbos using a 0.9 and turbos using a 1.2. Off to find a new SPAC cap then as it seemed well made. I'd love to get a Skunk2 cap as it's all nice and matte black, but it only comes in 1.3 I think.

Sweet, the search is working again. PranK, will you get a chance to look at the search results ordering issue? Have included a pic to show you. It should be showing newest posts first, but it's kind of all over the place. I have it on the default "View all topics started and posted in". When I change it to "View all topics has started" the results seem to be accurate in showing newest first, so it's a problem with the combined setting it seems.

After putting in my new koyo oem radiator (looks identical to the stock one), it's time for a new cap. I currently have a SPAC/PIAA "53" 0.9 cap which looks to have reached it's useful end. So I need to get another one. However what are the benefits to using a Nismo 1.3 cap? Will my car cool better as the descriptions I've read say it will? And another question, is 0.9 the correct pressure cap I'm supposed to have? My car is a pretty much stock R33 GTST. All I've done is ground the boost, and installed a FMIC. The reason I ask this, is on the nengun.com website, their description of the Nismo 1.3 cap, mentions that stock is actually 1.2 !!?? "The Nismo radiator cap is a heavy duty radiator cap, which operates at 18.2 lbs (1.3 kg/cm) compared to 12.6 lbs (0.9 kg/cm) non-turbo and 16.8 lbs. (1.2 kg/cm) turbo Nissan OE(Original Equipment) stock caps." http://www.nengun.com/nismo/radiator-cap So does that mean me having a 0.9 cap all this time was wrong, when I should have been using a 1.2? Confused

"Posts by users" doesn't show any results now. But maybe you're already playing around with the search function to fix things

Before the crash, the search function wasn't working properly either. Sorting by date was selective, and you'd get stuff that was 7 months old in front of new posts 4 pages back. I really hope this will be fixed, as it's the only way to keep track of posts you've made and other persons responses. It doesn't have to be tomorrow, but sometime soon if possible as I miss this most about the about the older forum.

Yeah they are different. I got a new one from the local radiator place.

Glad the forums are back. Was it a database issue? Looks like tons of posts have gone missing.

I wonder why they have larger aftermarket external trans coolers then. They would only cool the trans fluid down even more wouldn't they?

Just got back from a few radiator repair places and also a transmission shop after taking my unit into them for advice. The trans guy said if it's a toss up between a cooler engine, or a cooler transmission, go for a cooler transmission. The radiator guy said also that rather than a 42mm or 52mm radiator cooling the engine better, it would in fact only cool better if there was a significant amount of air flowing past it. So if no tracking, or racing the car, the 25mm stock radiator was actually more efficient for everyday driving. Plus a stock/oem unit also has the internal trans cooler as well which the 42/52mm ones do not have. So at this point, I'm thinking an oem auto replacement is the way to go. I've found a Koyo one for around $300. It's more than I want to pay, but with so few options concerning what is available for autos, I don't have much of a choice as this is the cheapest I've found one for.

Brett, that's interesting. I was told today the internal cooler was important if you did alot of stop/start driving. Like being in a traffic jam is a good example. I had thought the fluid went into the internal cooler, then out to the external, then back into the trans. But what you're saying is it comes from the external, to the internal, then to the trans?

I'm currently having to replace my now dead/cracked radiator. Since I have an auto there's an internal trans cooler in the bottom tank. There is also a small rectangular shaped external trans cooler radiator that sits in front of the ac condenser radiator. So there are two points where the trans fluid is cooled. As for radiator replacements there is virtually nil aftermarket ones for autos. The only ones I've seen are OEM replacements that are identical to the stock one. But I have heard some people with autos still put in a manual radiator, and thus bypass the internal trans cooler and just use their external one. So I'm wondering is this actually ok? is the trans fluid going to be cooled enough, or do I still need my two points of cooling for the trans fluid. I don't race or track my car, and apart from the odd cruise, just use it as an everday car. This is my stock? external trans cooler.

I've looked on ebay and there are a few options. The ASI ones do look good value for money with there being a 42mm and a 52mm one for around $190 each. But they don't appear to have an auto one. But this brings up a few other things though too. Like will they fit together with the stock fan and fan shroud, or do I then have to replace those as well? There are also some OEM ones on ebay which look identical to the stock radiator. Though it might not cool as good as the 42mm or 52mm one, I'm never going to track my car, and would rather have it look more stock than riced out. I think one of the ones I found was a Koyo branded one, for under $300. I don't know much if anything about radiator brands, but isn't Koyo a pretty decent brand? Will know more tomorrow on how much it will cost to re-core my old one. Then from there at least I have some price comparisons. I'd really like something that looks stock, but maybe is thicker than 25mm. Arthur, where is this 32mm one you were referring to?

Anyone had their stock radiator recored at all? Am weighing up the options and costs for getting a new OEM one (Koyo) or my old one recored. The tanks look to be ok, so will take it to a radiator factory tomorrow and get some more advice. Just wondering what others have done when they needed to replace it. I wouldn't mind a slightly thicker core, but I guess the stock one is still pretty good if you're not heading to the track right?

Bugger, I just found out the auto and manual radiators are indeed different so that narrows down my search of one to only auto radiators

Looking to purchase a stock R33 radiator in good to mint condition. I'm not sure if there is a difference between a manual or auto radiator, but my car is an auto. Am located on the Gold Coast QLD.

Looking to purchase a stock R33 radiator in good to mint condition. I'm not sure if there is a difference between a manual or auto radiator, but my car is an auto. Thank you.