KrazyKong

Madaz, correct you have a few options there with username, and or posts by username, but it's not usable if you have to goto the 4 page of results to see a reply that occurred today for a topic. And in between we have 1 year of posts. So there's definitely something that isn't configured or working correctly.

Ah nice, yes that is the thing I was looking for. However, looking at the results, it's still not showing them properly. The most recent replies should be first, but it's ordered them with some that havn't had replies for 6 months, some last week etc. It's all over the place and not sorting them as it should be which is newest first. Sau 2.0 sorted this just fine, but 3.0 isn't working at all in this regard.

I wish Sau 3.0 had "egosearch". For those who don't know what this is, it's where you are able to see all your posts and replies in a topic setting. Thus it's easy to keep up to date with things. In Sau 2.0, this was done by searching the forums with your username only, and having the results sorted by date. Sau 3.0 can do this, but the results are buggy. Even though I've checked the option for sort by date, the search results are all over the place and buggy. Suggestions?

I'm on the Motul mailing list. It's not on their website as I've checked that too. But the email did say this... So worth calling or dropping into those stores to see. From what I can gather this is the X-cess oil, with a new name in a new weight. So finally we have a 4100, 8100 and 300V all in 10w40.

So it turns out Motul did indeed create a 10w40 8100 oil. Looks like this might be it. 5L for $69.95. Hopefully this will fill the Sougi gap nicely. Anyone heard of this oil yet? I think it's only just been released, or is about to be.

For sure Rolls. However money is extremely tight for me right now. So I want to find out 110% it's the coil packs before replacing them, as in all honesty the stock ones up to recently were performing just fine. I don't need super duper 800hp ones, just ones that work - and most importantly not buying new ones when the problem isn't the coil packs.

Just got back from a dyno place and from the sound of things, it's looking like the coilpacks might be stuffed. Things to note is the shudder and spasm happens when in "D" (I have an auto) more than in Park or Neutral. Happens alot more when the car is warm/hot too. Maybe the coils got cooked when the engine was low to nearly having no coolant in it when the heater core crapped itself. Does this sound more like my problem at all?

Will check the AFM but I only just looked at it recently when doing my FMIC install. Can't imagine it got clogged up while not being driven. The ecu looks fine. The coolant leaked out in direction which wasn't close to the ecu. It left a white residue mark on the rubber firewall covering. The loom is up high under the dash I believe. The coolant was absorbed by the thick underlay mostly, so there really wasn't a whole lot of free standing coolant anywhere.

Some weeks back my heater core let go and drained into the cabin. Finally after getting everything back in the car after having to strip it, dry it out and find/install a new core, the car has now developed a spasm. I haven't driven it in a month due to taking my time with various things on the car from the heater core incident. After the initial freak out of discovering my car had little to no coolant in it, as it had leaked into the car, I filled it the next day and took it for a drive. It seemed to run fine. In the month it's been parked it hasn't leaked anything either. So hopefully that rules out any serious damage to the car. But this spasm is very odd. That's really the best way I can describe it. It's like a hiccup, spasm or a twitch. The car used to run so smooth you'd never feel any kind of vibration. What happens is you feel this shudder in the car, then the revs drop, then climb back up. It seems to happen more when the car is warm. At first I thought it was simply air and bubbles left in the engine due to the heater core disaster. So I bled it out nicely today, and it's still doing it.

Thanks Chris. I'd still love to find a proper skyline drivers side actuator and whatever else I need to make the central locking do both doors. Was thinking this smart entrance was part of that. Not that my keyless entry system doesn't work, but turning the key in the drivers side door is very hard to do. I still think the actuator is in the wrong place

I think it opens/closes the vents, though not sure if it does others. But I do know it opens/closes the big main vent that you see sliding up and down. This is the one above the stereo and the hazard switches. If you take the dash covering off that contains the hazard, demister and etc. switch on it off, you'll see a big vent covering. That's what it moves.

DarkRyda, for some there's no other choice. S2 with airbags, make fixing the frog motor noise a real hassle. It was quicker for me to take the entire dash out than to reach up into a space, that had no space to undo bolts I could not reach. I know others with S2s have posted success stories in being able to fix/replace the motor without taking the dash out. But when I attempted to do it, I got so fed up I ripped the whole dash out. I wasted more hours trying to do it the "quick" way, then if I had just taken the dash out and done it that way first. Anyhoo, it's fixed, silent and working nicely

Chris what does the smart entrance thing actually do? I happen to have mine right in front of me and was googling to see if it did anything. I know it's got the buzzer in it, but have no idea what else it's "supposed" to do.

I don't see how it could come from the radiator. If the radiator and cooling system is sealed, you're not going to be able to smell anything. Flushing might help, but even old rusty colored coolant won't produce a smell if the system is free of leaks. Since you are smelling something, then the smell is originating from some form of coolant. Thus where is this coolant, and why is it there, is what you need to find out. I wasn't aware I'd lost an entire engine block full of coolant until my heat gauge shot up. The carpets, and underlay are so thick, you wouldn't even know there's a leak. So I'd pull up the passenger side carpet and check under it. Getting back to the smell, the smells seems to be coming from the heater box. The only thing in that heater box that has anything to do with coolant, is the heater core. Since hot coolant is fed into the core from the engine, despite you not being able to find any leaks, the signs point to there being a leak somewhere. If the smell smells like coolant, then it can only get there via a leaking heater core, or a cracked pipe connected to the heater core.

My heater box had the smell and there was the watery coolant substance on the bottom. All it needs is a good clean, and the smell should vanish in time. But to get the heater box out, you'll need to take your car apart pretty much until it looks like this: I didn't take my heater box apart. Rather there were large openings where my hand could fit in. And I cleaned off all kinds of marks, scunge and other crap in there. But taking the heater box apart completely doesn't look to hard I don't think. As far as the source of the smell, it's not just going to be the heater box however. The coolant came from somewhere, so it's still possible you've got a leak. The smell would disappear even if you didn't clean the heater box if there wasn't a leak. So a continual smell means you need to find the source.

Does anyone know the current state of GW and Sougi? I havn't posted here in quite a few months and was wondering if anything had changed, or if they went through with their plan to stop production. Birds? Galois? you guys are still here I hope

After searching these forums about coolant info, it hit me we need a thread just like the excellent Oil one just for coolants. Maybe one of the admins/mods might agree and sticky this right next to the Oil one I was having a talk today with my neighbour about coolants. I'm currently replacing my heater core and thus will have to do a full coolant flush. Having only done one a few months back this shouldn't be a problem. But the discussion soon turned to what type of coolant to use. I know alot of folks here use different coolants, with some stating the Nulon Long Life Concentrate is one of the best. I was using previously a cheap coolant from K-Mart. What was interesting in this discussion was that I had thought all coolants "cooled" about the same, and the only difference was the length of time it lasted, or whether it had rust inhibitor or antifreeze in it. But it turned out, that after putting in this Nulon my neighbour mentioned how the temp gauge was reading lower. And his coolant was still clean and green before he did the swap. I know it's only one car, but having an engine run cooler is a great thing. Based on this, I'll be trying the Nulon stuff myself. What about other peoples experiences? How have you found a coolant that works for you? or are happy with it, but want something that works better. I was happy paying $5 a bottle for the stuff I was using before. But had I known this Nulon stuff could cool a car better, I would have purchased it immediately.

Where is this tap btw? It must be on the engine side of things, as the heater core doesn't have one, nor the plastic angled pipes that you connect to it. I don't see anything in the rubber heater hoses either.

If you're not leaking any coolant into the car, which I'm in the middle of fixing myself with a new heater core, then the smell could be coming through your air system. My heater box stunk of coolant. If it's happening when you turn the key, is your climate control set to blow air? What happens if you turn the climate control completely off, does it still smell?

Still waiting for my heater core to arrive. In the meantime, took a few more pics of the current state of my car

Seeing as I'm on the Gold Coast, the closest refineries would be in Brisbane. Do you know what refineries operate there by any chance?

Some pretty clear and interesting results. Seems most people here use 98 and BP is out in front followed by Shell and Caltex. Still I'm curious if BP actually do have a higher standard for their 98 or if it's a bit of an urban legend type of thing.

I guess I found my needle then . I ordered a brand new heater core today for $245 + $20 shipping. Thanks for all the PMs guys. Due to the hassle and worry, I couldn't bring myself to fit a second hand unit not knowing if or when that would fail too. Should have the core tomorrow by any luck.

Hey all. I'm looking for a replacement heater core for my R33. Preferably I'd like a new one, as I don't ever in my lifetime want to go through the hassles of dismantling the car to fix this again. Have searched these forums too, but haven't found any of the stores here who sell new ones. Does anyone know this either?

Yeah I'm dealing with it as well, though I'm taking a slightly different approach. I've still have the AC connected, and have managed to get the heater core out. It took more work obviously, but since I have more time than $$ at the moment, it was worth it for me. I had to gut the inside of the car to get the carpet out anyway, so have taken the whole dash apart and took the heater box out. I see on the heather core where there is some white corrosion stuff, or calcification, so I imagine that's where it was leaking. Not sure if it can be fixed, or if it's even worth fixing $$ wise. Still hoping brat81/rob will reply back as to where he got his new core for $180 from.