Sanouske

You have a pm. Thanks.

Wtb: R32 RB20DE engine Urgently! Hello, I'm in rather urgent need of a replacement RB20DE (yes non turbo) engine for my rally car. Today the old girl had enough of the limiter and decided to spin a bearing. I have reasonable rod knock now. My next event is in 4 weeks time and I'm looking to have it all back together for then. If you have or know anyone that has an engine around. Someone that's done a turbo swap etc. Please! Let me know. I'm happy to buy interstate if needed, I can organize TNT to collect. My number is 0404 132 593. Im located in Adelaide but happy to work with who ever can assist. Many thanks!

Thanks mate, eventually ill be repainting the car Bayside Blue with some other colour thrown in. In the end it will be stickered with sponsors and club even info. I have seen some Kaaz centered diffs available but all get snapped up pretty quickly. Will keep on the hunt, thanks. Ive been racing in an open, a welded diff and in clutch centered diff car and as commented below, having a properly shimmed clutch center is far best for my driving style. I agree shimming a VLSD isnt ideal, but its better then the open for starters until i work out what i want to use in the long term. It wont last forever but its a start. Lower gearing will help with the gearbox ratios as currently im stuck using 1st and mainly 2nd gear and only just touching 3rd in the long straights, but without the extra HP its a bit doughy. If i can shift the gearing field ill have better driveability. Hes using a clutch centered r200 with a 4.3 ratio. However hes also supporting a hotted up SR20det. So compensations can be made. I do have to touch base with him as he does have other diffs in the workshop which they were playing with during setup. Suprisingly well. We wanted an s13 but i physically wouldnt fit. Im 6'4 so it wasnt going to work when all caged an kitted out. The R32 is tight, but managable. Engine reliability has been good. I rewired things and got the cooling system all sorted, along with air intake and so on. Apart from needing to fit a PS cooler mid year, its been solid all year. Gearbox is a bit meh, pops out of 2nd in very harsh conditions. But as mentioned i plan to swap the zed box into it. Ground clearance is good, ive eaten embankments and tyres which were flicked into the driving line by previous drivers, built a very solid sump guard. Sumps are quiet exposed underneath. I custom built the shocks using Stagea and 300zx Tein coilover tubes, lengthened to support inserts. The front inserts are from a mitsi colt and the rears a toyota camery. Springs are 300zx and aftermarket skyline, RS-R i think it was. We did break the cradle mid year, unknown to us before buying the car (street daily driver) it was already damaged and repaired. The repair broke. So i got a replacement cradle and gussetted the shit out of it. As for being competitive. Very. Being this year was an R&D year for the car, before we invest too much time and effort into it. I came 3rd in class. Which is 2L Modified. 1st position was a hotted up rally spec FWD pulsar (not sure how but his point total was very close to ours). 2nd was my mate in his rally modified Datsun Stanza. With the 4K+ suspension job, and hot L20B. This engine just pulls and pulls. Super nimble on the dirt. And then us, in our relitively tame R32. So suprised is what we were. Certain tracks we where quicker then the above mentioned, and also some 4wd imprezas. Its holding its own. With further R&D we should be pretty good. Ive got to upload the in car footage so one day ill link it in. Spot on. Ive raced in a welded diff car and while its improvement over open, the corners werent as tidy as they could have been. Proper LSD is the way to go and agreed, worth the money and time investing. This is what we found so far with the open diff on this car. Power late into the corner to keep momentum up and power out early without sacrificing too much forward drive due to wheel spin, its all rather predictable. It is quiet easy to drive this car this way, but when the car starts to drift over the width of the road out of high speed corners or oversteer into sharp linking corners, the LSD would help keeping it a little more on task. Ive approached the corners more sedately to keep the car in coarse, but im sacrificing too much time in and out of them. Ive also ran a series of different wheel alignments to assist in keeping it where i need it. But im at its pinnicle where by i need more drive from the rear, via a well organised diff. We ran locked cars also, the above mentioned stanza is a welded jobbie now and while its good. I feel hes loosing time catching the car into the corners and loosing time in the corner as it slides around. Being super light it doesnt have too much drift as the heavier cars do, but still a second here or there catching the car due to its inability to turn it properly, kept him off the 1st podium this year. IIRC the stanza was only a handfull of points behing the Pulsar. To which i dont know what its not in 2L modified FWD instead of 2L modified Open class. Anyways people, thankyou so far for your comments. Appreciate them all. Will still accept any new info though. Cheers Chris.

My appolgies, i just went back through my photos and found some i took when i last had it out. Ive got it ass about face. Whats currently installed is a 4.11. Ive added some photos to assist with what i currently have. Along with a photo of the car the last event we ran.

Long story short ive built an R32 GTS rally car. Its using the GTST brakes and hubs and currently has a 4.3 open ratio diff which i believe is from a 180sx as its an R180 with the small ears, 4 bolt rear cover and 3x2 bolt flanges. Firewall code suggests its meant to have a 4.1? If i recall correctly. Anyways, im planning on keeping the engine the RB20DE, so i cant use the extra HP of a turbo setup to benefit the launches and out of corner speed requirements im having. But what i want to do is fit a taller ratio diff. Something ideally around 4.9 or even 5.1. I need it to have LSD also. Welding it will not suffice. Is there any suggestions for what to look out for to fit my requirements? There is so much misinformation out there its becoming harder to precisely work out whats the best combination of parts. I was hoping to find the unicorn front r200 diff fitted in some navaras/pathfinders that ran the 5.1 ratio and pinch the parts to use in a shimmed vlsd r200 rear diff and use the 5x1 shafts and half shafts if needed. But not having much luck locating anything as yet. Ideally a clutch packed LSD would be best but im happy to shim the vlsd to accomodate what i need. Also plan to swap the rb20 gearbox to a z32 gearbox to assist a tiny bit with the wide gap between 2nd and 3rd. Affectively tightening that up a fraction. As down the straights, Its a snoozer in 3rd. Very much appreciate any of your ideas and assistance. I have posted this same inquiry over at the siliva forum to generate some discussion. But alas no results as yet. thanks chris.

Hi there. 32's come out looking pretty cool. Be interesting to see where the forged engine can take it. Keep up the solid work. Also bit late new if any, regarding rims. But did you ever look at Impul R5 rims? I used to have a set on my Zed and i was super impressed with how light they were. Should never have sold them to be honest. Look like this...

Hello. Working on this bitsa of an r32. I'm at a loss as to what a wiring section connects to as the plugs been yanked off. Located on the front left hand side apart of the loom that the afm and washer bottle plugs come out off there's a harness with three wires excess. Two blue and one black. Blue white, blue red and black white I think it was. Can someone suggest to me where or what it's meant to connect too. Engines the standard rb20de. 93 model car. Ac system has been removed and a mate suggested it could be for that stuff. But I'm just wanting confirmation before I tidy or chop it out. Thanks

Exhaust pipe I use either 1.6 or 2.0 mm thick walled tube. IC pipe work if alloy I would aim for around the 2.0 - 2.5 mm thick walled tube. If stainless or steel. Just the same thickness as the exhaust tube will be fine. 1.6 304 or 316 stainless is more then adequate. It's rather strong and doesn't distort as easy as steel tube. Have fun, keep your joints tight and not too much heat (amperage) when welding them together.

Adelaide - Northern side Thanks for your help =)

Stripped the interior of a r32 out, because rally car. So if you want or know someone needing anything. Hit me up. Might be able to help. Rear seat, fair to good condition $50 Rear seat belts, very good condition $60 the pair Roof lining, fair condition $25 Random side panelling, varying conditions $15 each Carpet, not bad, wear mark on drivers foot well $25 Boot trim, average, but all there $25 the lot Boot carpet, fair condition $20 Front seats I'm hanging onto for the moment. Prices are all very much negotiable. Can assist with shipping if needed. Thanks. Tell your friends. Will try get some pics up ASAP.

Afaik the det afm should still work fine, but the pinout at the plug may be different, hence why its going into safe mode. Maybe worth googling the pinouts and checking. Also, converting a turbo car to a non turbo car doesnt mean you can drive it on your p's. Regardless of the engine, when the run the plates and see it was/is a turbo car. Theyll have a chat to you. Unless. you have it engineered/complied/etc retitling it as a non turbo. Would have been no different then just pulling the turbo gear off the turbo engine and running the engine as a decomp na. still a turbo.

Brilliant, I'll take it please. I'll be able to make this work easier then folding up a alloy box I had in mind. If you PM me your details ill deposit the money. Regarding freight as I'm in adelaide. I can organise TNT to collect it from you if you could box it up and label it with some shipping details. Thank you. Chris,

Can you put up a pic of the air box thanks. Might be interested pending the shape. (Missing an air box and haven't any clue what they look like stock) sorry for the odd question. Cheers

Hi mate could you gang up a photo of the radiator. What condition is it in? Cheers, Chris.

What's the very best price you can do on the rad? Thanks.