Emancipator

Only 100 eh Power?

What do you take us for! SilviaWA? Im sure ud be welcome...

Same with me. And yea, Thomas St/Winthrop Drv they like to put them in the median strip! Thus making them on your right... Just wait untill they go for rear facing.. As for retractable plates... long screws will do it, or those little picture frame hooks... for somthing more elaborate go get the eyelid motor off a VL Calais and wire that up Brent.

Errr.. i think this is illegal. You cant have two insurance policies for the same car... its some type of fraud. Anyway, i know this beacuse when i changed from RAC to Just Cars, since RAC didnt want to insure my nice new turbo conversion i had to switch, When i rang just cars they said that they couldnt start a new policy until the RAC one was cancelled.. and i didnt tell them i was with RAC so there must be a record of it sumwhere. So even if u try it, i dont think they will let you. Yes... even tho they are two different policy types.... Wat maybe best is to put ur dad as the primary driver and put you down as a nominated driver. Brent.

Wow! This forum + search is magic! So its safe to use K&N fluid? My old man, (Skippers Parts Manager) sold the filters and he cant even seem to get his hands on the fluid. Cheers! Brent.

Wow.. this thread hasnt been locked yet?! Nice to see some civilised dicussion...

By "stock" you mean the one that comes with the normal nissan full face organic clutch kit? OR the one that came with the 5 puck driven plate? (or did you only buy a driven plate? Beacuse i intend using an upgraded pressure plate (2000lbs) with the 5 puck driven plate. Brent.

well.. i swear by them.. admittedly i think to give you an honest opinion i need to try out the Eagles.

Quick question; It seems alot of people are using 24-2500lbs clutches, will a 2000lb 5 puck ceramic put up with an RB30ET making ~250rwHP? I want the lightest clutch i can get that wont slip, the STOCK clutch is only just starting to let go.. and i think thats ~1500 lbs. Brent.

BANG ON.. I have FULL REGO and WITNESS and still nothing. Cun7s. this really really pisses me off. Brent.

What exactly would I ask for and where in Perth can I get some of this heat strapping style insulation? Who makes the best VALUE stuff... and would it be suitable for keeping the cooler pipe (outlet side) cold as it runs over the radiator due to the cursed RB30 Plenum setup. Cheers, Brent.

Man! I didnt even know this section existed till today.. tho its doesnt look like this sections been around that long R31s classic? pff.. maybe i will hang onto this one for another 15yrs and sell it to a museum.. sorry for the OT

well.. when I got cut off coz HE failed to give way at a roundabout then tailgated me for 10mins fishtailing roundabouts to keep up.. then getting out at a set of lights and attacking me and my car... you gotta wonder WHY.... I got a witness and the rego, so the cops are investigating and i will press charges. Brent- not in the wrong for a change.

**** no! ****s.. those anti hoon laws are wrong. And dont hit me with .. if you dont hoon you wont have a worry. Where the **** were the cops when i was assulted yesterday by a pissed off driver? and where were they when they were smacking the **** outta my panels?? Brent.

not all states are the same... if you get a dangerous driving charge you get the option of going to court and entering a plea and then telling the magistrate what you were doing.. a mate of mine had just got his 1st rear wheel drive car and lost it with in 24hrs of having .. over corrected 3 times b4 hitting a pole.. the owner of the house called the cops thinking he was drunk.. (note: 1/2 carton of empties in back of car).. he got 6pts and $350 fine.. the charge was "Dangerous driving" .. so you may get the same options, since you will most likely be up for a "dangerous driving" charge. As you say.. lucky its not "dangerous driving causing death" Brent

45+ Km/h is dangerous driving... and anything you have said here can be taken as evidence so it just as well you may or may not have. Brent.

Another wish for the well being of all involved. Brent.

I used my NA block/head simply because its cheap, and because i didnt want to lose torque and off boost performance. I got an avg condition T3, manifold injectors and dump pipe, bought oil and water lines, got a rechipped VL computer, and some piping, and a 180sx cooler (which i did not put on and dont recomend it) umm wat else? gaskets, o and the front pipe got given to me for a 6 pack and that saw $1250, o yea and a boost guage. The intercooler which isnt included in that i picked up an R33 GT-R one for $340 last week, simlpy coz the guy didnt know what it was other than "off a skyline" and it had some bent fins and dents, but it was tested to 20psi and doesnt leak so im amped. so that installed will be around $450 (DIY mild steel piping.) Thats pretty much all. feel free to PM me if u have ne more quieries Regards, Brenton.

bolt on a turbo thats all i have to add to this thread. No off boost lag, and the conversion cost me $1250.. who cares if it only runs 6psi, tho i prob need a 1/4 time to back this up. Either way they are cheap easy cars to mod.. every P Plater should have one. Brent.

This thread is psycho! I guess it ended up with a purpose after all since i have learnt alot about insurance costs.. im only insured 3rd Party Fire and Theft, since it is an R31 after all, costs me $660 with a maximum value on my car of 5K... which would be a pisser since i reckon the cars worth at least 8 .. Brent.

I think im at the other end of the scale... Now i bought it for $2500 and spent this: Manual Conversion $1100 Respray $1200 Turbo Conversion $1250 GT-R Intercooler + piping ~$450 Shit thats died $650 Extractors Exhaust (from the NA days) $700 Stereo $500 Immob etc $300 Running costs and consumables (fuel tyres insuramce obviously dont count) so thats $6150 on mods... 3x the cars purchase value!!.. now ud have to spend 60K on a GT-R to get close to that kind of expenditure.. .. now i feel stupid. Brent.

The reason you have "Constant inlet temps (in traffic the water/air cooler is better, as the air/air only has a limited heat sink effect and needs airflow accross it to work optimally)" is becuase the water is taking the heat energy into its intermolecular bonds, so your right with no or little air flow the aire/water cooler is more stable becuase of the high specific heat of water.. the let down of this is of course that its very hard to cool the water down again when you get going, at least with air/air once you going it rapidly disappates the heat aquired while "sitting at the lights" so to speak. As far as i knew water/air was a bit of a drag car set up thing, where they dump the water and put in nice new cool stuff at the end of a 1/4mi. Imagine changing the water in the system at every set of lights! Also while the cooler itself doesnt give you extra power in the true sense of the word, if you increase your boost pressure to compensate for the pressure drop across the cooler, then you will infact have.... more power. And if you are like me and are limited by detonation before anything else, a cooler will solve alot of problems. Brent (A non-fan of air/water coolers )

I think its all about traction. Get good tyres and get some nice wieght transfer happening youll be sweet even with slightly lower HP cars... Brent.

What kind of pressures are we talking about here? I was thinking of putting a 2800h/d ceramic 5p in my car.. but its my daily driver, and i have to sit in traffic... :S Brent.

Champ! Ok, ill have a hunt around and wait on this thread. Cheers Brent.