pyro-ns

if you're out to steal cars with the knowledge you appear to have, you're going to fail miserably, very very quickly anyway I highly recommend you check out the "How to use a multimeter" articles on AutoSpeed. If you're soldering (which you should be for these kind of projects) multimeter skills are an absolute necessity when dealing with anything electrical.

you raise a good point.... the car's still a bog stocker at the moment and we're still babying it until we can get the gearbox serviced and all the tranny fluids flushed and replaced. tbh, i'd rather sink $100 into a better radiator, lol. i've just gotta figure out where i'd go from here. i'm assuming the 33 rad is an upgrade? maybe just a nore hardcore version of that? edit: a triple core 40mm alloy rad from just jap without the gay bung system!!!! :PBJ:

if it's design faults you want, the clock on the dash is further away than it should be and there's not many practical spots for gauges, lol, although i doubt that's what they think of when they're designing a car !!! i thought that was just ours! the wife's stag looks like somebody's just stuck a dayz kit on it (missing the rear of it though) and i thought it was just poor fitment, haha.

i take it this is going to be similar to the good bits thread? if so: The STUPID top facing intake manifold - Lets make the most basic of all service procedures take 15 times longer. The plastic bung in the rad that requires a screwdriver to open *facepalm*

i've gotta find out where half of this stuff is first :lol:

hmmmm, fair enough. i haven't got to munching the thread yet, lol. i've snapped the bit that your screwdriver actually goes into.... this one goes in the shit basket with the top facing manifold, lol. cheers mate

yeah, that's my alternative, but i've gotta take the under engine "diffuser" off to get to it. i'm a lazy bastard and i enjoy a bit of destruction, so i was hoping to drill the guts out of that bung and find something better there'll most likely be some sludge in the bottom of the rad too... was hoping to get it all out. btw, on the neo's, that screw off to the left of the cowling, is that a bleed point for the coolant system?

just reminded me of that insurance ad where the flock of geese decend and everyone crashes, then the goose swipes that woman's purse... the wife and housemate's sitting in the lounge in silence, slightly amused and all of a sudden i go, "JUST SNAP THE BASTARDS NECK!" needless to say, they both shat themselves and i was promptly scolded /off topic lol

Hi all i've searched the rectum out of this one, both on here and regular google, but haven't come up with anything... at all... i went to do a coolant flush on the stag yesterday and i broke that STUPID plastic bung on the bottom of the rad. it's still stuck in there and i think i have buckleys of getting it out, outside of drilling it out and chopping it into little (satisfying) pieces. is there an alternative to this? the coolant's looking a bit murky so i'd like to get on to this one pretty quick... i was hoping that maybe there'd be a tap available for it, like with the replacement for the sump? cheers guys josh p.s has anyone else had this problem?

haha, i could see the passenger airbag thing being pretty disasterous so far we're thinking 1 near the a pillar, 2 in the ash tray (not quite too sure how we're gonna achieve that mean feat, but we'll see how we go) and the 4th one in the glove box... still early days yet though. noone makes cars to hold gauges!

the mrs and i are highly interested in gauge mounting position too mate. if yu come up with something that isn't obtrusive, doesn't take away a vent, doesn't block the clock and is still easy enough to see whilst driving, let me know, lol. i'll keep looking and return the favour if you want how many gauges are you looking at having and what size faces?

sorry, i didn'tt see the m35 in his profile and just assumed c34

agreeing an in old thread percieved volume will also change with ambient air pressure/temperature/humidity.

for a full kit, i'd buy an off-the-shelf kit for stageas. i know Just Jap have a couple here, so they can be had. finding the right one is a little difficult though. generally, for turbo cars, you can't go wrong with a full 3" mandrel bent system with some form of high flowing catalytic converter (or you could just put in a de-cat pipe, but it will fail emissions, should you ever get checked, you might blow a few flames too and it'll be louder). a full exhaust system generally consists of: 1. dump pipe - comes out of the back of the turbo, generally has the O2 (oxygen) sensor in it 2. front pipe - goes from the dump pipe, down to the underside of the vehicle 3. the rest of the exhaust - made up of sections of pipe, mid-mufflers, resonators, catalytic converters and a final muffler with a tip (note, a legal exhaust system would be made up of these bits) there are typically two different types of bends in exhausts, press bends and mandrel bends. mandrel bends are the same consistent diametre through the length of the bend, whereas press bends become smaller. a larger press bent exhaust will do the same as a smaller mandrel bent exhaust (i don't know the ratio's, but generally it's considered that a 4" press bent exhaust, will flow the same as a 3" mandrel bent). all-in-all, an exhaust system isn't really a very important mod, unless it's done wrong. there is a science to it (like everything motoring related). to shorten it down though, a bigger exhaust will flow more gas, which in a turbo application, is what you want. unfortunately, a bigger exhaust has it's drawbacks, such as loudness and it will detract from your bottom end power (which is generally considered a lost cause in turbo cars anyway, so no great loss). there are also different types of dump pipes. generally it'll come down to a split dump, or a bellmouth dump. most people choose bellmouth and i'm yet to see any performance gain from a split dump 9but i'm no expert). jap brand name kits are also considered to be of better build quality with a better power output too, but will cost you more $$ than a generic kit. i'm yet to see any side-by-side comparisons though, proving one way or the other.

yeah, the irregular idle is next. doing a service tomorrow. also trying to figure out where i can put some gauges. have some left over from the s13 that we traded in for the stag, so may as well make use of them. i've noticed there's a few blue silicone pieces of vac lines around, so i'll be checking around them first for any vac leaks. i need to get my hands on a workshop and owners manual as well. anyone know of any freebies going around? also looking to convert all interior lights to led's for something a little brighter. currently neither of the interior lights in the roof work (no bulbs) and the shifter light is out as well. can anyone tell me if the series 2's have the lighting systems where the lights stay on for a few seconds after you've closed a door etc? i'll add a capacitor if they don't.

cheers for that mate just did it then. mechanical gauge, so it'll be + or - a couple, depending on what angle you're reading. 1: 175 2: 170 3: 165 <-- cranking voltage was getting a bit low when we did this one. 4: 168 5: 168 6: 168 quite pleased! thanks to everyone for their help

! seems like everyone's owned an sr at some stage, haha. haha, i'm with ya on that, TOP FACING INTAKE MANIFOLD FTL! cheers for that mate fingers crossed it'll do a bit better once it's warm. i figured seeing as it's just gonna idle there, i'll put the crank case hoses back on, non-clamped, same as with the ic piping. the oil in there's still old too, so trying not to drive it that much. service tomorrow, all things going well, so i'll leave it all apart tonight, so that i don't have to deal with that stupid top facing manifold and cowling any more than i have to, lol. i get the feeling i've met you before too. are you on nissansilvia? i'm pyro on there, just in case my username didn't give it away lol.

cheers mate i feel like a n00b :lol:

quick question guys, i'm doing a compression test at the moment. i'm doing the usual "remove all plugs, attach tester to plug 1, WOT + ignition, wait until needle stabilises". is there anything i need to know about neo/rb engines that may be different from regular engines? (i came from sr's and ca's). eg, does a particular vac hose have to be connected? the car's only done just under 84,000 and it's all over the place i feel like crying it's so strange. the car blows no smoke at all, feels like a heavy turbo 6 when you get under it and there's very very little blowby in the ic pipes. there's a bit of dried residue, but i've rubbed my finger through all the pipes (as in, top ic pipe to the intake manifold and the crankcase venting pipes between the cam covers) and there's barely anything in there. edit: there's hope yet! according to google, the engine must be warm when you're compression testing. can anyone confirm this?

yeah, i realise consistency is the key, give or take 5%. just wanted to have a base figure in mind, so i know what kind of wear the engine has. the main one, is that there's a mechanical boost gauge in the cabin and the vac line has been clipped off in the engine bay (as in, to the fpr, not the wastegate). not normally a problem, but the vac line's been bent on to itself and ziptied off in a rather average fashion. i want to make sure that there's no leaning out problems really. aside from that, i could see a few bushes which seem a little more than 86,000k's worn. hadn't had an oil change in a while (or they're filling it with chocolate) and a very very small irregularity at idle (like a d/c vac line or something).

weehooooo! thank you very much!

Hi guys My wife is about to take delivery of a 99 RS4V, subject to a compression test (spotted a dodgy thing or two). Can anyone tell me what the compression should read? it's a series 2, so the rb25det neo engine. So far all I can find is this post, recording 130psi (which i'm assuming is healthy, giving the consistency of the cylinders and nature of the post), captinsane's profile says he has an s1 stagea though, and i've heard of compression differences between the s1 and s2? I was hoping to get this done this afternoon, so if anyone has any info, i'd be greatly appreciative cheers guys josh