pyro-ns

yeah, it should have been cheaper. needless to say, i worked for an independently owned station, where government legislation was more of an "option" than "mandatory".

there is a DIY using a particular solvent (apparently), but the car must be able to run. i'd be taking them to a professional myself.

YES!!!! that's the one i was looking for! thank you sir! And thank you to all else who contributed now i know where else to go if things don't work out, haha.

Hey guys, There was a thread recently about a workshop at Lonsdale that was getting rave reviews, but I can't remember what it's called. The thread was either in here or in the SA section. I've asked in the sa section, but its not looking too good. Does anyone know of the thread that I'm talking about? It was asking opinions of a particular workshop and I'm pretty confident that the name of the workshop has a guy's name in it. There was also a testimony from someone on here that works at the engine machinist shop that you can see from Dyson Rd. Sorry for the vague description Still don't know my way around the area Cheers guys josh

hahahahaha, you just made me think. when the 10% ethanol blend came to QLD, the servo that i was working at was one of the first 6 or so to get it. the price was the same for the ethanol blend as it was for regular 91 unblended. a customer came in one day and said, "Isn't there meant to be no tax on the ethanol blend, so it should be about 8c cheaper?" i had to stifle my laughter and tell him that government tax is somewhat higher than 8cpl.

nah, it's definitely at lonsdale. i can't remember if the thread was in here or in the stag section. might go annoy those guys and see what i can come up with

i don't think so. from memory, it had a guy's name in it i'm having a total mind blank hey. edit: i thought horsepower in a box was just a shop?

Hi All, I was reading a thread a while back about a workshop at Lonsdale that was getting rave reviews. I've tried searching, but can't find the thread again. Can anyone tell me what the name of the workshop is? Cheers guys josh

it could be just be the regions themselves, because in qld i only tested this stretch, but it was consistent. go from the Buranda area, to mt gravatt and it'll drop a cent. then go to woodridge, it'll drop another 2 cents, then go to browns plains and it will drop another cent or 2. originally i thought it was just because it's further out of town (like that would somehow make a difference), but then if you go to redland bay, it's usually at least as expensive as buranda area or moreso... it sounds a little strange, i know, but for about 2 years, i worked between those places consistently and i always filled up at browns plains. ipswich is usually on par, or a little cheaper than browns plains as well. but yeah, we get shafted by comparison to the us. but then new zealand gets shafted compared to us and europe gets shafted compared to them.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll see what i can get in the way of new pads and rotors and report back if anyone's interested. things are alright now that we both have jobs, haha, was looking a little shaky for a while. just starting to get back on our feet now. the trip down was eventful. first an oil leak, then split cv boots... put an extra day on the trip down. can't say i recommend the brisbane to adelaide drive. it sounds like a great idea at first, then you get into your second day and it's a little tedious... how'd you go with that ca? did you strip it back?

from what i've seen, petrol is still inline with the weekly cycle. petrol in adelaide is cheaper than brisbane though. i'm still 100% certain that petrol in the lower socioeconomic areas is cheaper than the higher socioeconomic areas though. i've seen differences in the expensive parts of the cycle, at 5cpl. that's for both brisbane and adelaide.

Hi all, The girl's stag has developed a nice grinding sound that only appears when braking. I would say that it makes that it makes the sound, for about 10% of the wheel's revolution, when braking anywhere from about 40k's and below. It also has a bit of a shudder at speed and braking down hills from speed (speed being about 100km/hr btw) almost shakes the car into oblivion, unless you get off the brakes and then start braking again. I know the alignment is pretty average and I've got it booked in for that, but I'm still trying to diagnose the grinding, hence the post. I'm trying to figure out what the options are and so far I've got: CV joint - Wheel bearing - unlikely? A braking component - pads aren't down to the wear markers yet I don't think, if they are, they're not making any noise. Haven't measured width of rotors yet (not sure what acceptable widths are on stags anyway) Is there anything I've missed? I've had a look under the car and can't see any signs of rubbing or interference. We are running 235's on 19x9's all round and the fronts clear the shocks under all conditions. I haven't pulled the boot back to have a look inside yet (can that be done without damaging the boot?) and I can't see anything wrong with the brake assembly (again, haven't pulled anything apart). It's going in for it's 100k service soon (hopefully next couple of weeks) too, so I'm praying that it'll hold out that long. I don't have the time or work area to play with it Also, I've done a search and nothing yet is coming up with the same symptoms. The closest thing I've found, turned out to be a wheel bearing, but that was a constant grinding noise. Any suggestions you've got will be greatly appreciated guys Cheers, Josh

not sure what it's like down here, but in qld, none of the DIY stations are de-salinated... hello rust...

hmmm, i'd be very keen to see what it's like on insurance... i guess, realistically, all the parts are already in aus, but i don't think it would show up in the database if it hasn't been approved for import.

welcome to last century grandpa

better than the extra 2 or so hours to mallala for me! now to get another car

unless there's some kind of "I won't touch this illegal transmission" disease in SA, i don't know that ANY transmission shop, worth their salt, will turn your transmission away.

please take more care than that guy did....

there's gotta be a reason for this sudden change of heart...

i'm glad i stand corrected

that and i don't know if there's been a crash in a stag where the airbags have deployed? i haven't been around that long though, so i could be wrong.

that is possibly one of the most fantastic things i've ever seen. this is the kind of thing that i want to do for funnies.

doing this from memory, but here goes. top pipe on the solenoid is pressure feed (it shouldn't matter, because i don't think it's a 1 way mechanism, but from memory, that's how it is). run a vac line from the intercooler piping, to this. bottom pipe on the solenoid, is connected to the t piece. the hose with the restrictor(s) in it, goes from the t piece to the blow off valve return pipe (it's under another pipe, have a look around for a nipple). the last hose, goes from the t piece to the wastegate. just in case i'm wrong, be gentle on the car when you put everything like this. if your car really surges, something isn't wrong. your solenoid might not be getting power, in which case, your wastegate isn't getting pressure and your car is free-boosting. this is bad for your car and your turbo. if you have a boost gauge (all turbocharged cars should), you should be running no more than 7 psi in standard form. the series 2 stageas run a dual stage boost control, around 5psi up to about 4500 and then 7 psi from there on. it is not uncommon for the stock solenoid to be grounded (by a previous owner), however, which will give you 7 psi all the time. i don't have a pic i'm sorry. if you have a search for the 10 minute boost mod, there should be some pictures somewhere

upgrade bmc and get a bmc stopper

our last two alarms came from Platinum Security. Daniel is very friendly and is only too happy to help