pyro-ns

they're generally not that good unfortunately. i personally would go for he numberplate attachment ones and screw/weld/tape those bastards on so that they can't possibly come off.

COILOVERS IN LAST NIGHT!!! >.< no more standard suspension! the car doesn't feel like a boat in the ocean any more something interesting to note, all the bumb stops were totally screwed. half of one of them was wedged in the bottom coil of the spring, so i checked the rest of them and with 2, as soon as i lifted the dustcover, they fell out in pieces. with the other one, the bump stop wasn't even there anymore... 8kg front, 6 kg rear, dampner is on half way and it's probably a little too hard for our SHITHOUSE roads. i used to whinge about roads in qld (especially brisbane city and the northside) but holy crap, adelaide has some absolutely disgusting roads. WHY THE HELL AREN'T THE MANHOLE COVERS, FLUSH WITH THE ROAD FFS?! i'm sure every other place in the WORLD can manage this, yet adelaide can't? YEW!!! where'd you have it done man?

spotted a lady driving a yellow stagea on the southern expressway this morning. i've seen your car at westpac before. are you a regular on here? btw, is that the Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust?

i'd put in around 36-40psi. it really depends on how much harshness you can tolerate and how the rubber reacts to certain tyre pressures. all you can really do is monitor the tread wear and make sure that it's even on all fours. all other things being neutral (camber, castor, toe), too much pressure will result in a bald spot right in the middle of the tyre and too little will result in baldness on the outside edges of the tyre. if you find that extra pressure makes the ride too harsh (unlikely), then take a couple psi out and see how that goes. or if you've got coilovers, turn the dampner a few clicks towards soft

if it didn't mean losing the central locking functionality for howver long australia post deemed, i'd gladly swap control boxes with you

welcome! as far as wagon's go, i was pretty happy with ours in stock form. they're a little sluggish with the stupid standard boost setup, but once you get a decent boost controller on to them to give you a little more boost, quicker, they're much quicker (even the 10min free boost mod yields much better results). extracting power out of them isn't terribly hard, because they share a skyline engine, the aftermarket support is fantastic. the weakest spot in getting more power, is the turbo. the ceramic wheel generally can't handle more than about 12psi. there are companies who will rebuild your standard turbo with a steel wheel and different bearing options + machining, which is a much better product for producing more boost. the engine itself can put out a decent amount in stock form, probably more than you'll want. you can also go down the RB30 path if you find that internal work on the RB25 isn't what you need. you'll be running into problems with the auto box not handeling the power before then though. in saying that, the autobox is probably one of the stronger ones out there. there are also plenty of autotrans mechanics to pick from, who know a thing or two about the box. from factory, they are limited to 180km/hr. this can be removed though. there are also options to extend your speedo to 300km/hr, but they're not cheap. as far as handling goes, if it's still got the factory suspension in there, it's going to be shit regardless. there are plenty of aftermarket options for suspension floating around, swaybars, coilovers, camber, castor, toe arms etc. so you can make it whatever you want i guess oh and out of the box, the satnav setup won't work in aus. i believe there are some people working on this though, they may already have a working solution out there. you can get a digital twin tuner to make the tv work, but i'm not sure where from. there was a group buy on here ages ago. i'd imagine the product still exists and the only stupid questions are the ones that are not asked. we're all friendly here

the android os really is the way forward. all apple are offering now is featureless rubbish. marketing is based on basic things with a pretty UI and apps that Apple don't even make... on top of that, android is open source. it can be developed and tewaked for any smartphone device out there. and OMG! IT SUPPORTS FLASH!! When apple's ads for the iPad say, "The world's websites in your hands" they are actually lying. apple will not support flash and you've got to run a streaming vmware environment, or jailbreak (which voids your warranty) if you want to see flash on i products. apple are fast becomming the next microsoft with their proprietary standards and such. fortunately, this time around, we are better armed...

nah, the rear auto door's fuse had popped. i just wasn't smart enough to check the simple things first the blinker craziness is definitely the control box + the alarm sending so many signals at once. on the girl's stag, the blinkers used to flash on lock and unlock, before we put the alarm in (i think it was twice for lock and once for unlock?). so that, plus the signals that the alarm is sending, is what's giving the Gabber night club effect i've got to fix the door on the colt properly first, then i'll get back to the stag. the colt got a new aerial and headunit on the weekend. still some tidying up to do on it first. there were obviously no DIN slots in the 80's... had to cut the surround out so that the headunit would fit :S

can't remember what profile the girl's are, but they're 19's and we run 40 psi, checked weekly. totally even tyre wear so far.

goddamnit! mine doesn't have a damn alarm! i'm feeling more cheated by the second! lol

i tested it when i connected the wires, but i just heard the doors going off and thought, "Great! it's working!!!" <_< and no, no central locking key for me... bastards... shit ah well, at least it gives me somewhere to look i guess. i didn't spot any burn marks on the central locking setup, so i'll probably check out the driver's door first then. will be a good opportunity to size up speaker replacements if we ever decide to do that as well. cheers for the info

you mean a factory key with unlock buttons? did they come from factory with keyless entry?? all i've got is the regular key, no buttons no nothing i'm starting to lean towards the control box being damaged. i've noticed a bit modified wiring/repairs in the car (moreso on the driver's side), so anything could have happened false alarm on the flat battery. am guessing it's from having the door (dome light) on all day. the battery was already tired to begin with (still has jap writing on it, haha). gave it a charge yesterday afternoon, took it for a drive and it kicked over again this morning. another thing too, what did you do about the indicator control on the un/lock control box? whenever i press a button now, the indicators flash wildly, because the un/lock box is telling it to flash at the same time as the alarm can i just snip a wire or 2 off the plug to the un/lock control box?

hey guys, yes, i used the passenger side control box and the doors are set to negative trigger by default. and yes, just the unlock function on the driver's door only that's not working now the damn battery is flat as well... i've done something wrong...

Hi all, Have just put an alarm in the girl's stag and everything's going fine except for one thing, the driver's side door won't unlock when you press the unlock button. The rest of the doors and the boot all unlock fine. The driver's side door still unlocks with the key, from the outside as well. I know with s13's and the like, there is no central locking mechanism in the driver's side door from factory. I also know the chances of a door coming with an unlock function, but without a lock function, are astronomically small, but thought I'd ask anyway. So yeah, has anyone else had anything screwy happen to their driver's side lock function? Or is something broken on mine? I guess I should be looking in the door first? Seeing as the control box is obviously working, i mean. Cheers guys josh

either get a fitting that will downsize from your current vac hose, to smaller vac hose and connect to the intake manifold, or get a smaller piece of vac hose, slip it over the intake manifold nipple, then slip your bigger vac hose, over the top of that and clamp off. otherwise you could just stick the bigger vac hose on there, and squash the guts out of it when you clamp it off...

lol, hat's a bit better i may have mis-interpreted what you originally said, but i thought you were offering a "run heaps of camber and get even tyre wear" kind of solution

thanks very much guys!

Hi guys We want to get a service done on our auto-trans (S2, the tiptronic one). I remember seeing a thread in here a while ago, and it had a (south?) adelaidean workshop which was highly recommended and had a lot of experience with the Stagea auto trans. If anyone could point me in the direction of that thread (or just list the workshops ) I'd be very grateful cheers! josh

holy old thread batman! but yes, if the pipe is sucking shut, then the filter is not letting through as much air as it probably should be. it's a trade off though. a freeer flowing filter, usually means less filtration, which means more shit in your engine.

???????????????????????????????????????????? assuming you rotate the tyres often and have totally neutral toe, what's your solution with negative camber (say, 3 degrees negative all round), to wear out the middle of the tyre?

wooooohooooo!!!! so what happens when we go to get the tint done? do we just tell them our username and hand over the dollars? or is there a password? for the record, i am pro-passwords i can look pretty shifty at times and a password completes the persona if i'm jumping the gun, feel free to say so

if you're in south burnette, from memory there's only one good tuner near you and he's in hervey bay. no idea what his name is though. seriously though, this is incredibly simplified tuning. Anyone who can tune properly can use this setup and i'd be willing to be that even most n00bs could pull something decent out of it.

damn, $240/hr

it depends on the cash saving. if you can save a couple of grand by importing, import. otherwise, buying locally is the way to go. tbh, i find that the perfect reason to import. if car companies stopped giving us shit cars in teh ADM range to pick from, i wouldn't be importing. in my case/opinion, they've only got themselves to blame.

Add me please! I need both front windows on the Stagea done (rest is privacy glass) and I need all windows done on our 81 Colt (except windscreen obviously). All in 35% please $255 for the lot? (or have I got it wrong?)