Marcus89

I am looking for either separate or combined front/dump pipe too suit an r34. Can be split or bellmouth not really fussed and would prefer SS but aren't against mild steel either. Show me what you have i am in Brisbane QLD and should be pickup if it's within reasonable distance.

Oh fair enough well that would explain why it didn't change if i went with the items i chose not much point for me to do much else the way i see it since it's a street daily car with possibly the odd track day

This guys basically sums it up. Saying COD or BF is better is impossible because they play very differently and you may prefer the one style to another. I personally love how BF games play might be a bit slower but find it more rewarding and fun where in COD you seemed to rewarded for next to nothing which kind of lessened the actually feeling of achieving anything.

It's the little light switch that turns the interior light off when the door closes

The kumho's are not quiet as good as the 595RS-R's although they are better than the 595SS's but that would explain the price structure SS<KU36<RSR I think value for money wise the KU36's are the best option although it also depends on what you plan to do

my completely stock r34 that i paid 17500 for and told them i paid that much is costing 1100 a year and valued at about 21k from memory. I did adjust the excess but so i have about 3/3.5k excess from memory but that doesn't bother me too much. As i am going to mod the car checked to see what it would cost extra if i got an exhaust it's extra $47 a year which i think is fine. Best bit is i seem to be able to get as many mods as i want for that $47 bucks extra well at least the mods i want to get which are FMIC, Exhaust, CAI and ECU

My economy definitely isn't as bad as 17l/100km the full tank in the r34's are 65l i think so i would of used 55l for 380kms so 14.5l/100km. I don't bother idleing the car to get up to operating temperature as i know it's a waste of time and car does get to operating temperature in around 5 mins. Generally i try to drive off boost altogether and try not too have it planted at low revs as feel this is putting too much strain on the motor. I do have a fair few short trips although did a fair bit of highway k's this time round thats why i was unimpressed with the figure. I will keep an eye on it try and see if anymore fuel leaks out might try not goin a full tank and see if it still leaks

Have been wondering why i was getting very average fuel consumption on my GTT. I knew i was never gonna get fantastic figures but more than what i have was to be expected since it is completely stock and have been driving rather sedately. Anyway last night i filled up with a little fuel and saw some moisture inside the fuel cap area on the metal lip. Smelt it and was definitely fuel so now i know where at least some of my fuel is disappearing but i have no idea what could cause this issue? Is it a case of getting a new cap?

as above to get into diagnosis mode turn ignition to on (i.e power on the dash but car doesn't have to be on) and press the driver side door switch 5 times within 7 seconds. If you have done this right you will see the airbag light blink slow and fast the way it's blinking is actually telling you what is wrong but as there likely isn't anything since you plugged everything up just turn the ignition off and back on again shouldn't blink anymore. If it's still blinking try again and if still no luck tell me and i'll send you something that tells you what needs to be sorted

Thanks for helping us out bud 28174-5P600 RH 28175-5p600 LH those should be close, however being a trim part i would prefer to have a vin number My vin number is ER34202802 can you confirm the part numbers? Thanks heaps

I always thought r34 diffs were viscous? If they actually are torsional then put the handbreak on lightly and should be able to get the car moving that way

when i got my s13 silvia change over to an extreme organic heavy duty clutch labour was 350 with flywheel machining and i paid 400 bucks for the clutch from autobarn which i later realised was a real dumb idea. unless skylines are harder which i find hard to believe then it shouldnt be more than 700 all up

injectors and fuel pump have you got a fair bit of work on your N/A?

Anyone able to give us a hand? I'm sure theres a few people who have a good idea on whether the standard dump is very restrictive or not and whether the changes in size of the exhaust throughout will affect flow/performance.

Recently i bought myself a 2nd hand exhaust which included a 3" mild steel front pipe highflow cat and 3.5" stainless steel catback exhaust. I haven't installed the system yet as i am still tossing up between getting a new dump and front pipe or just running the stock dump with exhaust as is. The mild steel front pipe is made to bolt straight up to the standard dump as it tapers down to 2.5" at the dump side. Due to this fact i would be looking at replacing both front and dump pipe if changing them is recommended. Now i am only really going to be street driving this car and not going overboard with mods. Plans are the exhaust, possibly FMIC although may not be getting up to those power levels where it is needed and a Nistune. Plan to keep the standard turbo and run around 11psi. At this basic level of modification would the factory dump be a restriction at all? And even if the dump isn't a restriction is there going to be much of an issue going 2.5">3">3.5"?

Is this thread still in use? hasn't been a reply in a long time

That is far far too expensive for the Xforce they must be charging near 1800 bucks for fitting which is BS you could do it yourself at home although has potential to be a massive pain. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=108183 i couldn't find the pricing on their website but that shows that a SS turbo back system is 1300 bucks fitting shouldnt even cost 200 bucks if you ask me. For the price they are quoting they should be giving you a full CES system

Although r33's aren't that much better looking than 300zx's although i do much prefer the interior to the r32/180

fark me is anyone else getting frustrated with the skylineAUS site being stupid slow to load or not loading at all then requiring multiple reloads and get damn multi posts

You would of looked as bad as this guy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8xl7fxGFV4...player_embedded i would cry myself to sleep

I personally would go the r34 (as well that is what i have done in reality) but the main things that put me towards the r34 is i don't want an ancient old car (even though mine is still 9 years old) plus i can't stand the old interiors. R32 interiors were as bad as the s13's and man that was crap

300zx = box on wheels (may also give you aids) 180sx = looks pretty decent goes to show why they kept same shape through to 97/98 r32 = Best looking of bunch personally. Wish they had kept this shape for longer instead of series 1 r33 and obviously put the rb25det in them.

Agreed with my exhaust all i need is a dump pipe as have the rest of the exhaust and as i am keeping the standard turbo there's no reason for me to go real expensive on the dump/front pipe. If i was getting serious i would be going a high mount turbo setup in which case the dump i buy now is gonna be useless. Harey when you get that dump pipe from ebay could you send me pictures of it particularly photos of the inlet/outlets looking inside if their ok i might just get one of them although would prefer mild steel for the dump.

Yea it's a real pain. I know you can get a CES one or but they are costly although the build quality is rather good to

nevermind