VRdrift

now its for sale, any takers?

thought Id put up some pics of my old work in NZ just proving how these cars are worth very little there the staked c33's top is a DE manual, and the bottom is a ex taxi, desiel auto and if you look closely, drum rear 20e auto C34 laurel hiding in a stack of import hondas and lastly a C35 rb20de neo auto under a diahatsu

I have the box under the headunit, im in logan

same as what mine was, 100% of my manual conversion was using R32 GTST stuff for the drive shaft, r32 front on the cefiros rear, if yours is an early one you'll need to swap the centre flange over, and use a s13/s14 gearbox xmember, if you wanna be a cheap ass, a VL box, but the ratios are a bit messed up for a RB20, first is a bit too tall for my liking hand brake, R32 or s13, plus the bracket it bolts to, which needs to be drilled off and welded to your car, youll see an indent on the tunnel when your carpet is out, scrape away the sealer, and you'll find a outline in the floor plus 2 holes for where the handbrake cable goes through, cut that out, youll need to swap the cefiros splitter on to the r32 handbrake from memory, its easy, youll know what to do when its infront of you, once you have the r32 h/b's cable bit bolted to where it goes through the floor, that will give you a roundabout position as to where you need to weld the h/b bracket

having some issues with my a31s front brakes, well the left side anyway, sounds like its metal on metal, even though theres plenty of meat on the pads and the discs are fine, found that the 2 sliders were sezied up so ive regreased them but it still makes that noise, any ideas?

the 20e fuel pump should be fine, my cef was a 20DE and after going to DET, it was up to the job, but I put a R32 one in anyway, your 20E ECU can be chipped, essentially all the tuners do is turn it into VN commodore ECU by fitting an EPROM in it. that way any tune can be done, and can be changed easily from memory the plenium was a direct bolt on, Glad to help out, I know exactly what its like, been through it, and while you will throw spanners, and say words like DARN, BOTHER, BLOW and DRAT, a 30e is always going to be a crap load better than what was in it,

you can't use a RB30 ECU on a cefiro loom, the whole setup is completly different, you'll know what im talking about when you compare the two, no technology in that injection system, like Ive said, no wiring needs to done if you run the RB20E ecu, but it will need a tune, to run the later style injection on the 30 you'll need to swap the plenium over, you may not have to being an early one, I did but that one was a series 2, and it makes it look factory, keeping the law man happy, you don't want the law to know you have an older engine in there, if it ever came to that also You do not want to run a RB30ET ECU on a RB30E + T you WILL kill the engine you wont need to swap any plugs, remember you are using all accesories off your 20e or just save the extra coin and get R32 front cut for 2k like I did and be done with it

I hope Ive interpreted this right, but the loom that you have is the one that you will use on a RB30E/T if you go down that path, after swapping everything from your 20E onto the 30E, bar the injectors and lower plenium, that way it will run, but will need a tune, or a cheap way around it, a rising rate fuel pressue reg just to clear the cefiro E loom differences up, series one had square plugs on most of the sensors, eg the dizzy, <<square plugs, same dizzy as aussie R31 and VL, series 2 and 3 has round, the NZ spec 20E VL has the exact same loom as the 30E, so its no good, VL's run a much older non digital and now unreliable setup that is completely different to cefiro

easy budget motor swap, and still looks original, RB30E, done this before, with an ex VL RB, like Nic said swap over all the sensors, top half of the plenium , rocker cover etc, leave the 30e injectors in, run it on your factory 20e ecu, it will run ok up until about 4500rpm, it started losing power and hesitating a bit, think it was a fuel issue, but this guy had a dyno tune done for it, that will be the pricey bit, but it will be huge improvement over the 20e, and you'll still polish a VL of the mark with your lower diff gears

I would imagine parts for a c32 would be hard, I know you guys have jdm cars over there, for you it would be alot easier if you had a r31 as a doner car, are there many of those there?

it would, if you had a RB powered r31 parts car, but my question is why? you have a turbo v6, I know its old school, but it has more power than a RB20de neo, yes it reliable and indestructible, but it is the most gutless useless thing nissan ever put in a R34, the moment you hit any kind of slight hill it bogs down and diesels are passing you, it will be no better in a c32

only had luck finding one brown blank panel, can't find the foot rest, gotta clean my shed out, in the daylight I have no friggen power If you have the goods for the man Nic, go for it bro,

Crap ^^ your right nic, ive only found the auto one i have so far, need to dig more, I have these bits somewhere

I believe I have both, manual and auto foot rests are the same, i'll double check as I have 2 in me shed, and I think I have some blanks aswell, will check when its not so dark

R32 is the same, just incase you didnt know

Boo, a ghetto ready drift kit, fn freight companies!

ooh yes ^^ RB25 way easier,

I was going to get the rear window removed, but I found out I couldnt get that rubber easily, I could have through a glazier in NZ and ex japan, when avalible, but that was going to be a 4-6week wait. so thats the only bit I had to mask up

rb20 de auto trans out of a a31 series 2 cefiro, was in perfect working order when I removed it sorry about the crap iphone photo, $120

RB20DE engine out of a series 2 a31 cefiro, was a good running engine when took it out and has been sitting outside under a tarp for the past 6months so it is slighty weathered, (surface rust) pretty much just a long engine with the inlet manifold still on it. shoot us a PM if interested, cheers $220

couple of pics, could resize the rest any less, i'll try to get some better ones up soon

just bought an alloy rad from 999 auto in brisbane, good to deal with but the radiator has no drain bung or overflow fitting!?! WTF why would a rad like this be supplied without these, and I spent the rest of the day trying to find these which noone stocks GRRRRR anyone know of a place where I can get these around the sumner area of brisbane?

sweet, yea I know pearls can be an absolute bastard, but hell pearl white, its made for cefs I'm getting slack havent taken any pics yet I will try this weekend, only update I have is a new steering wheel i got in NZ last weekend

cheers guys, I'll put a whole lot of pics up next week when im back in town, to break down the respray, i did it over a week, but on 5 of those days, (12 hour days) my bad, I told a fib. I already stripped and repaired the boot lid roof and bonnet a few months earlier, but yea 1 full day to strip it down, ( all panels off, complete strip bar the engine bay) 1 whole ffffn day to fix the passengers side sill it was roooooted, the next day was just fixing scattered dents and wobbles and sanding off old crappy dodgy acrylic paint, and I got the painter at work to prime it that night, left it for a day then spent 1 day blocking and prepping it. then a day of painting, (same painter) 3 times in the booth, car and front guards first round, in and out. Doors next, in and out, then the bars bonnet and boot last. If time wasnt a factor I would have left the primer to cure better, cause it has shrunk back a bit, not that anyone notices, its lookin schmik For you Even Flow, I used PPG 1 shot epoxy etch, HS primer << not real keen on it, but can't argue with FREE! PPG DG liquid Audi white I thought about pearl, but I just wanted simple and easy to touch up,

just sounds like your carbie is due for a rebuild there my man, do they do service kits for them in your country?