NSNPWR

Couple of things- The wastegate does not ever fully open to 90 degrees, yours sounds about right at 45 or so...so dont bother with that, its working.... Are you running a Full 3" exhaust with Decat pipe? Decat exhaust are a known contributor to uncontrolable boost...as the post above shows, placing a restriction in the exhaust fixed the problem...and a cat is a great restriction....especially a factory pos.... I had this issue on my last car, ADM S15, was running full 3" with Decat plus various other mods, fitted a disco (with the tight 0.64 rear hsng) to it and had major boost control issues...I fluked a fix on mine when I reconnected the factory BOV which appeared to bleed off some boost above 15psi...before I did this it seemed to wanna make unlimited boost...scary. Best way to check whether its a wastegate size issue (which is likely the case with a Hiflow running a small internal gate) is to disconnect the actuator rod from the wastegate swing arm, move the rid to the side, drive the car, load it up through the rev range, it will be laggy as gosh darn, if it still makes 18psi like this then youre internal gate is too small and/or your exhaust is too free flowing.

Na, theyre just not working mate...

I dont think anyone would suggest doing burnouts to run a motor in mate...giving it some stick through the hills, no problem, but static burnouts?

Government have agreed to cover half the costs associated with the 'Environmental' tests...god knows what the criteria are but it was mentioned the consortium need to meet all the Governments bench marks before it will get the green light... I think the change of heart can be explained........think if Rann was to have taken this stance prior to election, it would have made a mockery of his tough on Hoons spill and jeopardised votes from all the naysaying, dogooding, wrap me up in cotton wool retirees Adelaide is famous for.....

If the rings are bed, theyre bed, simple. Driving it around as it is isnt going to hurt it at all...you'd be quite safe to bump the rev limit up some as long as the tune has sufficient fuel in it etc...if its not tuned then leave as is but youre not going to hurt it... Need to be careful when running in new motors on RICH RICH tunes as this can wash the bores and contribute to them glazing... Had enormous issues many years ago with a red top SR20DET built by Chris Milton Engine Developments in Adelaide...they rebuilt it using stock pistons which was fine with me, however, the piston to bore clearances were way too big and it was chewing through rings after only a few 100kms...after having the thing in and out several times, forking out sh1tloads to have it run in properly on Engine Dynos etc, finally had a Piston drag test done and the piston quite literally just fell through the bore...Lol...ffs....amatuers! Ended up in small claims court...settled out of court...small consolation after all the fvcking around!!! Another problem caused by massive crankcase pressures as I had above is shagged Turbo rear oil seals.....was chasing my tail there with that one for a while! Smoke, smoke and more smoke!

^^^Word...if plug gaps are too big, you'll usually get ignition breakdown when motors making peak torque and 5000 seems about right for an RB26... Ask them to check your plug gaps. What mods is the car running? Stock boost?

Cheers for the input mate...the one I have, the drivers side outlet (running to the PCV) and passenger side outlet (to turbo intake) are connected via a pipe running through the guts of the can (pipe is same diameter as the outlets)...what im confused about is how the rear breathers actually vent? Theyre blowing into the main section of the can (as in the photo/example above) but how then are these gases dealt with as it would seem the pipe joining PCV - Turbo Inlet is almost sealed, beside what appears to be a slit about half way along....is this where the the gases from the rear breathers are sucked back into the inlet? Through this thin slit???

bought a 2nd hand C's shifter off a feloow forum user....hmmm....its missing the metal spacer/bush that gets inserted first.... Anyone know the measurements of this?..........................ffs.

Yeah, these are a sealed type unit that does return back to the inlet but its supposedly clean air, having been through the separator... You really need to see inside it....coz im still a tad confused as to exactly how it works even with it here...I sent the workshop I bought it off a message but got no response...

Cheers mate...so the only thing stopping the main section of the can and hence the motor from becoming pressurised is the small slit in that pipe running through the middle??? And in the one pictured, is it really necessary to loop that hose around the back? Couldnt you just blank off those 2 fittings?

I know these catch can threads are everywhere but this is slightly different.... I bought one of these or very similar to - Now from what I can see, there is a tube running through the middle of it from horizantal end to end, with what appears to be a small slit in that tube about half way along? Can someone explain how these actually separate the oil from the air? I figure the air/oil blows into the main part of the can (bottom half of it when its mounted) from the 2 rear inlets and the slit in that pipe running through the middle allows the air to escape back into the inlet leaving the oil in the bottom of the can??? Is that it? Cheers.

Mine is working fine mate....single 16" fan fitted to factory shroud...see page 2.

Could not find any for RB26...found 20, 25 and 30 only....

Does anyone know if theyre any different across the models? As in colour wise? Im assuming theyre all the same?....

Best bet is Importmonster mate, search under Yahoo Auctions, Steering Wheels, Nissan, BNR32....have seen some brand newies pop up on there but you'll pay $400-$600 for one delivered.... Failing that, do as I did, get one thats in ok nick and have it releathered by a business in Adelaide for $160. Good luck.

Sent you PM mate, get back to me, cheers.

This is a bargain.

and like I said, they never open all the way to 90 degrees anyway... To the OP, hook the actuator rod up to the wastegate swing arm, push some compressed air down the vac line and you'll see how far it opens...will give you an idea then as to whether your dump is going to restrict its movement.

Thats not boost creep...its known as wastegate creep, where the wastegate creeps open before the desired boost pressure is reached...you can fix this by using a heavier actuator, applying a spring to the actuator flap arm (so there is more resistance on it, holding it closed) or if youre using a sh1tty bleed valve, trying a different type of boost controller like the Turbotech pnuematic units....also, the internal gate flap doesnt fully open (as in 90 degrees open) even when youve reached your desired boost level...pump some compressed air into the actuator line with the rod etc connected and see how far it moves... Boost creep is a separate issue, its where you have reached your desired boost level but as revs rise, boost continues to rise, the wastegate cant pass enough gas and the exhaust wheel gets oversped...this is common on cars with tight rear housings and very free flowing exhausts, particularly those using decat pipes!

Cheers man, appreciated, didnt mean for that post to come across cocky...

Im aware of all the info you posted above...but the fan doesnt spin to 8000rpm with the motor, it will not or should I say SHOULD NOT remain FULLY ENGAGED at engine speeds above 3000ish rpm as they are not designed to spin that fast...From my reading, there are instances where fans that are locked on (as mine was) have been spun too fast for too long and have shattered as a result... ...and what was this '$700' thermo setup??? Does that include a radiator? Even 2 Davies Craig 16s wouldnt cost you more than $500 retail.....and please show me where I can get an RB26 Clutch Fan for $100...Lol.

You need to let the old Fluid drain out...no reason if its a sealed unti that it should have leaked or be low...regardless, mine was stuck on, the fix youve posted is for when they arent engaging properly, as in you can stop them with your hand.

Atleast buy yourself a new one then mate....

Cheers mate, I have taken it for a good punt through Gorge Rd etc and it stayed cool as...was a cool night admittedly but again, I have no intention of tracking it or thrashing it for that matter when its 40 degrees....so for what I want, this works a treat...so far...and yes, from all the reading I did, the Clutch Fan is designed to disengage around 2500-3000rpm... I think theres a pretty clear trend developing in this thread re sticky R32 GTR Clutch fans. I should also add, my car runs one of them air diversion panels which sits above the radiator support panel/between the headlights...if youre not using one, get one, they make sense, have seen them on Ebay for $60 delivered...

Fair enough then...might put a few exhaust shops and manufacturers out of business....Lol.