DAN00H

gun-r32 I'd stay away from GT-RS for a street GTR. 2530 or GT-SS is what you want.

Michael - be carful that the "playing up" of the oil pressure guage is actually the guage.... I few members have notied this and then it turns out to be a problem with the oil pump (thus causing terminal engine damage!!) My never falters, shows the pressure when cold, then drops a bit once warm.....

you can use the original boost hoses, but remove the restrictor if it is fitted.

**** if you adjust the correction values (mentioned in a thread here somewhere...)

I'll have to look at the manual (at home) but if you search here it will bring it up.

yeah - that kit looks pretty good.

I would think that a GTR pump would be fine. I made 310rwhp on mine and it wasn't even stressed. Can you get hold of any workshop manual pic's of the 180 pump? I'd imagine they would fit....

Ask him where the import approval fromDOTARS is, if he has that then it sould be right to come off the docks (providing Customs are satisfied it is clean....) Something not right here.... My car was in and out in 2 days.

mate - that is NOT good, did you import through a broker? whoever you went through, get them to get the paperwork sorted ASAP! I hope you didn't bring the car in before getting the import approval from DOTARS..... I'd be getting the person behind the deal to pay for the storage at the dock!!!!

there is someone that SK uses that is reputed to be very good. I have not had positive feedback on Unique. One of my mates has a 300zx that he gets tunes at a place close to unique. I'll find out who it is.

that one isn't mine Mine is at home with the gearbox out! It is pretty easy to tell mine though, Silver with Sparco mesh rims that have black centers and red edges (the lip)

PFC is a proven performer on the Jap cars. Lots of ppl can tune them well - there is a thread here somewhere.

yeah, it was there last night (wed), as well as Tuesday night... Too many Silver R32's GTRs now....

they even sent me a pamphlet last night that stated they were offering this sort of cover : ) it is to cover cars that are off the road - say you have bought an E type jag into Aust and are rebuilding it, then you can get it insured. If anyone requires verification - give them a call....

I generally email the instructions and pics to ppl, as I can't get the pic's up here (too large). Any ideas?

Ok guys - speaking from experience here, Shannons can provide a 'laid up' insurance for your car while off the road (no rego required) - this is what I had on my '89 GTR. You can actually get temp rego anywhere from 1 day to a week. Again, this is what I had with my car. All you need is to tell them that is is 15yr old and give them the chassis number.

I have some install pics and install instructions for an SBC iD III onto a GTR. Very good unit and easy to use

what ever you odo - use someone with proven results....

how much do you want to change? basic stuff you need is scissors, chalk, sewing maching (as it takes ages to long sections and it is neater) or access to your mum's , quick un-pick (much better than using a knife, as less margin for error!) basic hand tools (to remove seats etc). a tin of Quick grip (sort of yellow sticky glue - best in spray can if available), wire crimps (used in fencing to attach mesh to plain wire) or something like these (can be bought from bunnings + you need special pliers to crimp them), a sectin of Zipper that runs up and down to join and undo the zip (needs to be the same size as the zip on your seats. no tricks to it - if you are doing a seat, then remove it from the car, turn it upside down and remove the original crimp fastners. some seats have zipper sections (easier to get the material off!). once all the crimps are off, and you have taken note of how it all looks, you can proceed to take the material off. Most seats hae small metal rods that run through sleaves - take these out before attempting to remove the material. turn it inside out and number each section with the chalk, then unpick each piece. Lay them on the new material and allowing 1cm around the outside of the original material, trace the shape on the new material - BEFORE you move the old material, mark the sew lines on the naw material. cut it all out then join it up with some pins. once done, double check everything looks right (remember, it should be inside out). then it comes time to sew - MAKE SURE YOU PRACTICE ON SOME OFF CUTS FIRST!!!!!! sew along the lines you made for the sewing points. once you have made the section, turn it in the right way and lay it flat - check it is even. if it looks good, turn inside out again and trim excess material. replace on the seat opposite to removal. (using new crimps) NOTE some seats require you to attach crimps to hold the material in, if you need more infor, let me know.

just buy a cheap orbital sander ($20 from supercheap or Big W) and just take your time with it.

you can do pretty much anything yourself. I worked for a trimmer for a while. just go to a shop and buy the materials you want, then use the existing panels of material as a template.

yeah - just get one of the tried and tested ones. I SK has been playing around with a Jaycar unit - cheap Myself, I went for an SBC id III, see if you can get one S/H, or get into one of the group buys.

if it was a decent magnet, then if would have been attracted to the blades and snapped onto them.

sounds like a stock unit then. did you use a magnet on the exhaust wheel?

did you check that the EXHAUST wheel was steel? otherwise it may just be a stocker.