AngryRB

For an R33 i was quoted $600-$800 for a power FC tune, thats starting from scratch with it, then $600 for each tune.. thats in brisbane though i would guess it be more expensive in your location and for a 35...

Hello people, Id like to get a wheel alignment on all 4 wheels, i dont want to go to bob jane or tyre power or any of those type of guys, i want to go to a real professional shop that specialises in performance cars, does anyone know where i can go to get a complete and accurate job done, so alignment, balance, camber and whatever else that is done... and also approximate cost??

does anyone know if you can buy Motul300v or the Royal Purple at autobarn, repco etc?? prices??

nothing worse than piston slap, and it just gets worse... my first car ( cordia turbo) had it bad and even after a rebuild was still slapping away, if your very particular about your car it annoys you everytime you start it, i think all that rocking scuffs the piston and rings, and just accelerates wear and tear.. not to mention sounding like its a worn out engine.... Its very worthwhile to do that important work yourself or inspect it, cause what i thought was a good boring out of my block turned out to be a rough as guts quick job and resulted in piston slap and low compression on a rebuilt motor ( no forged pistons), rings wouldnt bed in and it was a mess... all those measurements of a thousandth of an inch make big differences, and mechanics can be very rough and approximate instead of precise and exact... the difference between a motor with perfect clearance and precision compared to others can be huge, sounds rough and dowy compared to sweet and quiet....

well i wouldnt be happy them just all being the same, id want to know its perfect after spending all that money rebuilding an engine, a compression guage shouldnt be more than 5% different to the next , thats like saying a tyre guage says its 40psi but another is saying 30psi? must be quite a big gap with forged pistons when there cold and the cam must be quite long duration to justify a 70psi drop after a rebuild, but just my opinion, but if your happy with it then great..

bump.... $150 these are ideal if you have wide rims and want to lower the car a far bit...

Yeah it is quite ideal for a street car really, but you get used to the power and want more hey, so 3076 eventually will be the go.. my bro has a gt2540 (76mm comp, 53exhaust) and that thing is crazy, bit more lag than mine but his mid and top end sounds like its possessed... hes probably making round 220kw. but has done flat 13's and could break into high 12's... and this is all with less than a bar of boost..

i noticed you guys were talking about the car being level.... Is that they way the car should be to maximise the ride/ handling?? The rear is higher than front on mine and it bounces at the rear alot, does having the coilover set high preload the spring more creating bouncing?? or is it all just the spring rate???

Im finding this topic very interesting cause i have a 2871r 56trim highflow on my r33, and ive been wondering wether it be worth while tossing the r33standard housing and getting a .86A/R or OP6 housing or just getting a gt3076 and selling mine. It is very responsive indeed, good push in the back from low revs, great mid range, but runs out of steam after about 5500 - 6000rpm.

Hey SK, need your advice on Tein HA coilovers on my R33, is there some kind of ideal ratio in which to set the front compared to back??? What causes the bouncing??? worn shockies or springs to firm????? can i change springs or is that not economical????

you sure?? cause mine is as high as 170 and 175, 100psi is low, that must be pretty unresponsive on low revs??

There really only one decent tear where it meets the headlight, and a small one on the arch, the one underneath you dont see cause the side skirt covers it there, they go all the way down the same as original.

heres some , one normal and one wide fender for comparison

yeah i guess that kind of detail is getting very technical, thought id bounce the info off you guys anyway. cheers for the feedback

whats shimming the diff?? whats that do?

so what is the recommended or what is the best API (SH,SJ,SL,SM) rating for RB25's? cause i was reading that the SM oils and even some SL oils have lower Zn and P and lower detergent as well, and that the Zn and P % is what protects the metal to metal contact from wear. Apparently this % is reduced in the latest SM,SL oils because the valve trains are lighter and to protect catalytic converters and that the older SH, SJ oils have higher % Zn, P.... interesting how they lower this % in later higher rated oils such as Mobil 1 which ive been using has changed formula to lower % in the last couple of years, wont use it anymore now though after reading this website.... http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z10 It rates redline and Motul 300v being the choice oils, and these also have great HTHS interesting how motul 300v is rated SH ( so higher %P Zn) and also great HTHS, Looks like the choice oil from now on for me..

Hey im keen to clean out the AAC valve too, but is it ok to do this if you have a power fc? I dont want to have reset the power Fc and loose the tune?

Have a pair of front wide body fenders for R33, they are bout 15mm wider than the standard ones and have a cooling messing around below the indicator both are carbon fibre (black), one needs some repairs, the other in good condition Similar to the ones on JDM website that are $680, im asking $200 also have a pair of R33 rear pods and blitz side skirts for $100

Hey i have some used ones that were on my car, they are still not too bad, only found issues over 200rwkw and over a bar boost, apart from that car ran perfectly, can have them for $80..

+1 i agree, surely if its black its past its use by date and saturated with carbon so drop it, it would only get black in a short time if the cars driven hard alot, out of tune, worn or crap oil. Im sure the guys running drag cars, formula 1 and v8 supercars would drop it every race cause of the sheer stress on the engine/oil and it could well be black just because of the hard driving. so drive mostly normal and change the oil every 5000ks or drive really hard alot and change every 2000k's or less.

Hey does that oil guage work properly cause my rb25 goes up to and stays at like 6 for the first few minutes... just a thought I think its the TPS like DVS JEV said, had a similar problem in a commodore, replaced battery wiring, lead plugs etc, turnt out to be the TPS.... that would also explain the boosting problem.

hey i dont know much bout this topic, can you tell me , when you do the rb30/25 conversion, does that mean a limit of 6000rpm or can it be pushed to say 6500 or 7000 safely and reliably??? just wondering for future rebuild considerations with 300rwkw maximum output being absolute limit, even 280limit...

wouldnt that be an actuator problem?? might not be the right one for that boost level.. my tuner told me a gt35 would be on full boost by 4000rpm, so i thought a gt30 would be there by 3500

Hey im not sure if this helps but ive had some issues with my battery also, which i plan on replacing, seems that it will start on 13volts but takes longer, so cranking without starting would flood the engine wouldnt it and lead to rough idle for a few seconds. and if the blow off valve is leaking then that will definitely result in cutting in and out cause of the fuel mixture and make your idle rough...