AngryRB

I dont think the engine oil should turn black due to cleaning the engine inside, its more to do with blowby gases forming soot with turns it black, if its clean and ambor brown then it means your engine is in great condition or you just driving it mostly easy and limiting the soot build up by blowby. my previous point was, usually my oil is clean so i dont have much build up of crap in my motor, and on a turbo motor thats serviced like most people do it should never get that dirty anyway. the fact that after a tune it got black is because it was being flogged for a few hours and enough blow by created soot and turnt it black. Have a look at this site http://www.aei-tech.com/products/lube_oil_soot.html

ive had that a few times but not as often as you guys, i find i have to come to a complete stop for first gear to go in well. my clutch pedal doesnt seem to spring back right to the top when its released, it works fine but always feels like its leaking pressure and not comming to the top, apart from that it works fine... any ideas??

hmm good point ,

i was thinking , an rb26 being twin turbo, if one turbo was a bit worn and not spooling as fast or as much psi as the other , could that not cause some sort of unbalanced motor and put extra force on one end of the motor?? and if the compression was a bit up and down and even the weight of the pistons,rods,etc was different all that put together could cause a spun bearing couldnt it?? does an rb26 have two boost guages??

Ive always used mobil 1 oil and find its perfect for my rb, no oil gets used and the colour is alway clear going to light brown before and oil change. Before my last tune i did an oil change so it would have fresh oil but i noticed afterwards when i got it home and checked the oil it had turnt almost black.... so im guessing that is burnt oil .. my old man said it was likely the bearings lost some material... I dont really understand why people want to go cheap on there oils, If its going to get boosted and thrashed,wouldnt it be better to pay $100 for 5 litres and be confident in your oil than risk a $60 oil??? maybe just go buy a lancer... You should be on that supercheap add, hello my names ______ and im cruel to cars hahahah

Hey matey, i have the same wheels on my r33, well i have 30offset all round, will be interesting to see how yours fit on the 34. i would maybe recommend 35 profile on the front, on mine the 40 profile makes the whole diameter just a touch too big, so rubs a bit more and the spacers might not be needed on front depending on how different the 34 is to the 33. good luck with the fitment, sure are a big wheel , will be an agressive fitment.

Hey, didnt see this post till now, on the rear the 18inch by 9.5 with 30 offset 245 tyres, was needing rolling, and thats with tein coilovers lowered bout half way i think, sits nice on back, the front was definitely causing problems with 9.5wide and if i was to do it again id be going 9 or 8.5 wide. i have 9.5 on front 30 offset, 245 wide tyres and it was dramas, the guards cuts up the tyres if its low, ive put some camber on and lowered a bit with rolled arches now, but its just scrapping slightly on full lock, but also due to guy that rolled them didnt do it perfectly but its not a huge problem now. It all depends how low you want to go, the lower you go you run into problems on the front, with the tein coilovers it goes on like 2 or 3 wheels up a steepish driveway and ends up having trouble scraping and wheels spinning, so if your want the 9.5 it will have to sit medium height . i think ill try 235/35 next time on front if possible, cause its right on the limits as it is, but just doable depending how low you go with the suspension. I would say dont go 40 profile on the front , keep it 35 so that theres more clearance in the wheel arch and go less than 245 on front but you'll need them rolled on front still probably. then you'll have a full wheel arch and the widest that you can go and most aggressive offset too.

so what would be causing a spun end bearing??? How do you avoid having one?

Im not sure what reversion is about.... what happens on cars that have no filter no afm and no pipe, do they get reversion too?

I would imagine that cutting that mesh is similar to decatting your cat, its a form of restriction on the exhaust for sure, so the same might apply to the afm.... The mesh would help spread the air out more in uniform pattern compared to having no mesh maybe..but the mesh closest to the turbo could be cut out without affecting that air spread That would help to make the intake side less restrictive but also add things like a new smooth pipe between turbo and afm and good pod, air box, and cold feed, just like the exhaust has a smooth dump pipe and a decatt is better, same apply to intake??? what do you think?

Im having the same problem at the moment..... actually had this on the skyline and the falcon... In the case of the falcon i sure it must of been the old speakers in the back that were shot, or the interior bulbs somhow contacting the body, in that case i managed to fix it.. for the skyline i have no idea, so im taking the battery off to get tested. bloody frustrating

oh ok, i better put it back then, seems solid round corners still, I took it out cause my bro said he was taking a corner, started drifting and the thing went crazy ( hicas) and he almost hit a electricity pole. I guess the lockbar is the sensible approach..

newbie question here, Do you need any surge tanks or to change to a different sump, just wondering when your flying sideways wether theres still enough oil and fuel going in??

Those side mounts are tiny, i remember the difference when i got a FMIC , it was flowing so much that the boost creeped up from 11 to 15psi, ended up having some overboosting problems,( another story)

I agree, hard to find a decent mechanic

is it ok to just pull the fuse on the hicas?? or will this cause problems, ive heard that if you start drifting or doing a burnout , hicas can come one and you can end up all over the place, very dangerous.... if you pull the fuse , what happens to the back wheels, do they stay straight or have a ming of there own??

shift for best economy most of the time , 2500rpm so it sounds like booooar boooarrr after a while this can become boring and opportunities arise for some booarrrr rrr ashhhhhhhhhh du dudududu, and repeat lol

Hey shouldnt 300kws be faster than 12.8 my bro's r33 does 13flat with only 210kws.. do they have massive wheels spin with only 2wd???

Hey i have the similar happening on mine but mines a rb25det Mine idles on mostly 1200, somtimes 800 and other times 1000, its constant so not a huge problem. when i had the standard computer it was fine, only when the power fc was installed so ive been assuming its just the computer that isnt perfect. Not sure if thats the problem in this case though.

hey do you still have the rear pods and skirts? what brand are they?

There might be improved versions of it though, when i bought mine i was told it was a later version and easier to tune etc. i dont know if theres much truth to that though????

lol, i got retired old guy whos neighbourhood watch on one side, on the other is a family with young kids, so its wake up the kids and the old guy, Good Morning, lovely day isnt it????

pity there isnt some sort of housing that starts off like a .6A/R and as the gas flow increases on the top end, it became a .8 or 1.0A/R, just like Variable valve timing, it could be variable housing timing. that would be a good idea..

good point , but by the time i get the thing out the shed and out the front gate, its close to 5mins, lol.. can just imagine what the neighbours think, booooarrrr booarrrrr, hahah, soak it up people its an annoying rb,

yeah well its either that or crunch some gears or go get the gearbox rebuilt, so i choose option A Im pretty sure a gearbox shop said i could do that and get away with it, when i had a mazda the dealer said in severe cases of gearbox trouble, you can even use automatic gearbox in a manual, and that stuff is like water... which ive done and it fixed up the crunching second gear,.... but i stress its a last resort and not recommended of course.. But the proof is in the driving isnt it??? when i bought my car i was crunching 2nd when cold, and 3rd was kind of jarring like it didnt want to go in, and now i have none of those problems so obviously it cant be that bad..