AngryRB

sounds like my teins, hahaha.. must be 10kgs or more, i bounce around a little but when i bought them i had no idea what was what.. lol

sounds like a good time to me, those V8's are always packing some heavy mods..

i shall begin saving and report back by end of year, for the love of the rb lol...

if i insisted he would push more, but at moment i cant get second to grip, even third is finding it hard and dont have any more funds to spend on tyres so having any more power will just become more wheel spin, but yeah it still has alot of potential lol.. just need more $$$ to throw at it.. I love the sound of it on boost, its just asking for a flogging..

im intrigued now too.. lol well it was with a 250kw rated clutch, ive no doubt it would of seen atleast 350kw, if you watch the dyno video you can see it backs off after 5000rpm so it had heaps left, i will eventually build a bottem end up and go back for 350kw plus its still a goal...

im intrigued now too.. lol well it was with a 250kw rated clutch, ive no doubt it would of seen atleast 350kw, if you watch the dyno video you can see it backs off after 5000rpm so it had heaps left, i will eventually build a bottem end up and go back for 350kw plus its still a goal...

well i asked him what he thought was a good safe limit and he said 1.4bar is what he'd take it upto on E85, i was only looking for 300kw so when it hit 320kw first run i thought, wow i think ill leave it there in case somthing goes pop... it must of cost about 5k atleast upto that point and dont wanna spend more if anything goes wrong.. Quite alot of people say running over 300kw's is a gamble so i didnt want to push it incase it went bang, and i love how it sounds and drives as it is.. sorry daniel , dont mean to take over your thread..

no havnt gone past 16psi at redline and yeah E85, it was responding very well to boost and timing advance, each psi was like 10kw or more and knock levels very low, the fuel makes massive difference went from 280 to 320kw with no more boost needed.

ok sounds perfect, thanks, pm sent

lol.. i was bit confused too.. my engine has close to 200 000km's and still very healthy, i agree with above, the engine is the heart of it , you dont want a slapped out motor. I think you should listen to the motor stone cold, if its quiet then thats a start then do the usual comp test, visual inspections etc

yeah your 100% right, if i were doing it again id of just gone gt3076 maybe with a 0.63 rear even with E85 and hoped to max out at 300ish went gtx cause it sounded like a good thing, 10%more flow etc but its actually suited for a forged motor really, but also down the track i would like to attempt a rb30/25 or maybe just a forged rb25 , so then the boost will be wound up to 25psi.. i like to have alot of room for more power down the track and really its not bad, 20psi at 4000rpm shes on par.

that sounds impressive, but mines a daily driver and looking for a cheap setup with high response and working with stock auto so somthing like 200-240kw max on 8psi , will the kando turbo's do this or are they needing alot of boost?

haha , you go first then.. ill watch from outside the dyno room incase a pistons decides to depart ...lol

yeah well with a forged engine im sure the gtx would make upto 380rwkw, i think if you run a gt30 or larger a set of cams doesnt hurt, it makes 320kw on 16psi which is nice and safe, i dont want to be doing a rebuild anytime soon, and yes they'd give me a run for my money cause they'd have more traction for sure, maybe in third id hose them off

i dont think so, its just the mixture on idle, obviously you need an aftermarket computer for that with mine, as soon as the mixture was leaned a touch it would give the rough cam idle, but i prefer it with a smooth idle and odd lump to it.

I havnt read all the pages but wondering what kando turbo would suit a 4L falcon if any, and would a kando give much flow in comparison to its competitors garrett and precision turbos if ran at under 10psi or are they similar to a gtx and needs minimum 20psi to feel them working.

you know, alot of the cam sound is from the tune, with mild cams its almost undetectable, but with the mixtures changed at idle you can get the fat cam sound or even without cams get the sound.

I dont really agree, i think a performance car eg.turbo car you get rush of acceleration, you can be out of control at 60k and MOST young drivers are a bit immature and will do some street racing or burnouts, a boring type of car with more linear power delivery eg. commodore/falcon is more controllable, better still they should be restricted to a small 4cylinder 2L. even if they go out and do some defensive driving, that probably makes them feel even more invincible with there ego and testosterone flowing, until they loose control killing an innocent civilian with a family, then there balls might drop for a short time...

they'll say.. mm nice work man, like what youve done there. haha.. jokes, sorry i forgot bout the strict vic popo... police have seen mine up here and were actually admiring it, i take it back go for the return flow..

oh i forgot to mention, i used a tool on the drill and made it 4inch, then you can get some rubber trim to make it look nice and stock looking and hook up your 4inch pipe its a very good supply of cold air , might need to change the filter more often though from the increased dust and dirt being blown in

if you dont have a turbo then you need some cubes, atleast 3L's and somthing not too heavy personally id go somthing cheap until i could get a turbo, some options - EL tickford fairmont, 3L supra, VL calais, VS/VX calias, and id have some fun with basic mods and the drags

I hate mazda's and golfs! lol they are either cutting me off or tailgating me, thinking they deserve street cred...( yours is different though i hope) id swap the return flow intercooler for the other type , you can use the hole there for an awesome cold air intake with a 4inch intake pipe, also id think what turbo your going to get and how serious you are before the dump, if hypergear stick with your $200 pipe..

Thanks, ive been browsing ebay and gumtree etc, seems the stock xr6 turbo gear is fairly cheap so shouldnt be too hard to make it a reality, Im still wondering what turbo should be used, my options as i see it for a budget build are the following Kando dynamics T67 Second hand garrett Precision To make it cheap as possible would need the stock dump to bolt straight up so i think that rules out the kando, and from what ive seen the precision turbos have a 5 bolt housing but looks like its only 0.63, the secondhand gt35's are bit of a gamble though Any opinions/advice on what turbo selection? im thinking now it has to be a gt3540 spec , a kando with a 5bolt ford rear end would be ideal but dont think that exists?

my old man used to own one of them, they are a very lazy motor that dont like reving high, must be quite a long stroke and the stock gearing was massively long gears.. I think it would need a gt35, in a way its similar to my old Mitsubishi cordia turbo, with a small turbo it would hit a wall very early and not want to rev out, but with the bigger turbo in the ab model, it was half as big as the motor, the thing was an on/off motor but had terrific pull from 4000rpm onwards and would keep going to 7000rpm, i think the astron could be the same, it needs a big turbo. they also have 2 balance shafts in them that would hinder the performance, when i was doing my old cordia up i was told i could remove them and balance the motor to help it wake up a bit, what about the length of the intake manifold runners? would that be a factor in the powerband?

Kasko- i used to have a stock computer and it allowed alot of boost with none the the jolting cuts, it just lost alot of power , you have a series 1 and he has a series 2, thats why i thought id comment, no offense taken. Im sure theres good reason to take the boost reading from the comp cover or close by, taking it from the manifold cant be right, what about the pressure drop thru the intercooler,