Greg

until '95 r33s use a push type clutch after '95 r33s use a pull type clutch in your search for clutches you will no doubt come across both types

gear knob still for sale

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Thanks for the reply I actually insulated my exhaust recently, so the temperatures wouldn't be as high as they were. I've become obsessed with keeping things cool in my engine bay after seeing how much of a difference wrapping the exhaust made, and thought that the brake lines might be suffering. If I wrap things in aluminium, is it more likely to be keeping heat out or retaining it? eg i have wrapped the intake pipe in aluminium foil thanks

The higher the brake system temperature, the more the compressibility of the fluid--increasing the feeling of a spongy pedal. http://superchevy.com/technical/chassis/brakes/0509sc_fluid/

SK, thanks for the informative thread. The sealed bearings sound promising. I have castor rods with spherical bearings and I have neglected them. I recently greased them and they are feeling much better. I'll be sure to keep a close eye on them and the surround welds in the future. I have the KTS rods from UAS - do they look ok in terms of strength? here is a pic: http://nismo.com.au/pricelists/kts/ktscastorrod.jpg

don't go narrower than 225. i think having the same width all round is better as the car has an even amount of grip available at each axle. eg if you have narrower tyres on the front, car will be more biased towards understeer (will require less steering effort though).

as topic states

like these? untitled.bmp http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...12&t=96587&st=0

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if you like impul rims get them, who gives a **** if other poeple have them. it's your car.

i've got a boot lid with drift wing fitted, painted KN6. I would part with it for around $600.

thanks mate, i am after a type m though. new front bar is a big improvement

pics of front bar ? or at least what colour and if it's type m?

nice wheels and a free bump (a pity they're not 4 stud) Off topic but have you got any more pics of your car, specifically pics showing the flat boot. I am considering getting one. Thanks mate

thanks. i'm interested in a pair of 225/50/16 and a pair of 205/55/16. I'd like to know the tread and brand/model of tyres you have available in these sizes. thanks greg

How about you list the tyres individually, stating: width and profile, tread and brand/model of tyre. I know it's a bit of work but I'm personally not willing to travel to your place to find that there's nothing that I want.

Where in melbourne? $100 pickup today?

Actually it saved 4 kg, I measured it at the time and posted it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=40562&hl=hicas Definitely a worthwhile mod, the rear end feels much tighter and predictible

no worries mate, good luck with it! don't tighten the nuts too much or you'll crack the bolts

Hi guys I was looking around my engine bay tonight after going for a drive and I noticed that my brake lines that run across the engine to the ABS unit were quite warm. The ABS unit itself was also quite warm. I believe this could be hindering my braking performance and plan on making up a shield / wrapping them in insulating material. I would be interested to hear from those with experience and/or knowledge on the topic. Thanks Greg

Yes you save about 2kg with a mild steel lock bar on an R33. The computer cannot be removed or you lose power steering. Know this from experience!

There are 2 studs protuding from either strut which you can bolt a strut brace onto. i've got the R33 GTR rear strut brace in my R33 GTS25. Do you have an R33? if so pull back the boot lining and see for yourself.

yes can do it for $50 delivered

sump plug sold