YZ250ftw

Well For starters the "max" power output doesnt really mean alot. you really need to focus on the RMS power handling, Magnet Weight, Tweeter material, and the speakers frequency range. Also I Would never do I a stereo without a rear stage. even if the rear speakers are running off the headunit its still worth connecting them up, It fills the ambience alot better, Always feels like something is missing without them, we Have alot of customers coming in wanting rear speakers in there 2 door ute for that very reason. If the front stage is over powering the rear simply turn the gain down on the amplifier or Fade it towards the rear on the headunit. If you can get some better specifications on the speakers and amplifier I can help you a bit better, sorry mate.

Well, It got a decent power output yes! probably a little too much for those speakers, The thing im worried about most is harmonic distortion rate. It doesnt say it ( and its a pretty important factor) so its obviously not very good therefore having the 4, 100wrms wouldnt help much becuase the signal would be distorted, Personally from experiance i have done a couple Alpine setups similar to that with a Blaupunkt GTA475, I think its about 400$ 3 yr warrenty, 0.01%HDS, 4 x 75Wrms ( more suited to the alpine speakers) better input voltage control, crossover control and sensitivity controls.

Agreed, very sexy, easy to use, cheap for what you get too!

Yes but It needs to be programmed to other cares security retrieval code hidden on the immoboliser itself somewhere, then you need the instructions to figure out how many flashes etc and when you need to press button..

You will need to look at the harmonic distortion ratio of the Amplifier , that can determine alot of difference in the clarity of sound. for instance mine is 0.0016 most amplifiers are 0.1% monoblocks 0.2% ( doesnt matter much for subs) you will also need to look at the voltage pre amp output. so you can dial out interference on the amplifier and also get a clearer sound. I use a line Driver so I get a 8 volt output however most headunit only have like a 2 or 3v output. You will also need to look into the frequency range of your speakers and sub etc My preference would be Clarion Headunit (great value for money) ~250$ for aux in/usb/ipod Blaupunkt ODC6.5 (excelent splits sound really really good!!silk dome tweeter, adjustable crossover) ~$200 if you can find them(discontinued) Blaupunkt GTA280 (great sounding amp, decent RMS output, good harmonic distortion rate and gold terminals etc)suits the speakers really well also (`220$ I think??) Aepro 4Ga Wiring kit(OFC cables decent RCAs splitloom,remote on etc etc) `80$ Aepro 4Ga splitter (25$) Aepro ground loop isolater (10$) get rid of some interferance Earthquake DBXII 12 inch sub, (dual voice coil, LOTS of excursion,good at low frequencies etc)excelent value for money!! I think ours go for under 300$ :s cant remember. DNA Ported box similar to EQ subs requirements (~80$) may I ask why not rear speakers?, will sound much better!

I reckon youve mixed up the Constant power and switch Power wires, or the fuse has blown for either of them. Only installed a few alpine units( dont sell them at work) sorry mate

Yeah, sounds like voice coil to me. I get heaps of people come into work with same problem, JVC is just useless. just put a light amount of pressure on the main speaker while music is playing and if it starts working fine then its the voice coil!. cant really fix that. however if you cant afford a new set then simply turn down the bass on the headunit. If you lived in albany I could give you a new set for nothing, got heaps of stereo junk lying around at home

just spent 2 hours reading this, AWSOME!