tiberis

hey guys, seems like the best section to ask this.... i'm after the wiring diagram or any info regarding the door lock system (in particular the automatic locking system) of the series 1 R33 skylines. i have one at the moment and i have thought of a nifty modification i would like to see if i can hack up, but i would like to see if anyone has some info to help me start. from what i have read elsewhere, the door lock unit is behind the glovebox on R33's? can anyone confirm? Cheers.

definitely a bearing. only rattles on partial throttle ie when cruising. should disappear at idle and when on boost. might not be big end, might be one of the conrods. but sounds exactly like the noise from both the CA engines i had die. if you crack it open now you *may* be able to save it. if you leave it longer you get bad stuff happening

Sounds like HiCAS... (which does have a little computer in your boot) which he doesn't have? and from every other source i have read, the HiCAS is only for high speed cornering not as a parking aid.

Yeah, Heater hose would probably do the trick. the hose doesn't really see any large numbers for pressure or anything, but as mentioned it does get oil over time. most heater hoses are rated to a decent pressure and are usually rather resilient to chemicals so it should be fine. i don't see the point in it being as solid as they are, maybe it's more of a result of the continuous heating and cooling of the engine.

give it a twist. seriously, it's the same theory as the other techniques, you just need to break the bond between rubber and metal, sometimes rotating the hose helps break the contact first, then you just pull. might be a bit hard if the hose is really stiff, but it's helped me many times over the years. plus it also helps for putting hoses on.

Pretty sure the B pillars will just pull off on a 4-door as well. just need to take off some other bits with it. usually they are in 2 halves, the bottom half may have to come off first before you can unclip the top half. try going that way about it if you want to remove it.

yeah, i know i can. just haven't had time to do it yet. (haven't even had a chance to give it a wash since i bought it) i was also contemplating buying a crappy $2 can of black paint and just taking them off and spraying them. even if the paint job aint that good, they will be less noticeable. but it's on my list of things to do after: - 3-stage boost controller using stock solenoid and less than $10 of parts. - removing central locking security flaw. - having doors unlock when car is on and handbrake is pulled. - wash car

how worn is your key? do you have multiple keys? i noticed with mine, i only have one key (which turned out to be the valet key so i can't open the boot >.< ) and it was well worn and therefore not always working in the driver's door, but worked fine in the ignition barrel. got a new key cut for like $10 and it works better in the door, but only a certain way up. no idea on a new lock. if it is the central locking system/ the motor drives for the central locking, you can pick up new sets fairly cheap from any auto place. also, get your good friend Mr. WD-40 to help you. spray the crap out of the mechanism see if that helps.

you need to be unlucky like me... someone changed the horn on my R33 and the ones he replaced them with are white and they stand out like dogs balls on a black car when looking at the front >.< but yeah, should be able to see them through the front grill type bit. usually not bigger than the size of your hand. could also have 2.

interesting collection of problems you have there.... first thing to check: take off the door trims and have a look at the mechanisms. see if something is jammed/ rusted/ broken. has the previous owner(s) ever had the keys changed? does the key you have work in the boot? from what i have found, there are 2 types of key. the normal key (unlocks all doors and boot, starts car, locks glove box) and the valet key (only unlocks doors and starts car). maybe something got switched or replaced at some point? how long have you had the car/ this issue?

i always thought it was the other way around, that the JDM had full rails? but either way, there may be method to their madness. having that small section missing may actually act like a crumple zone in the event of a head on crash. the car will effectively kink in the middle section where the rail is missing. this will absorb a large amount of energy to deform the metal hence meaning less energy on the occupants. the US or whichever model with the full rails may have needed it for compliance or something. but it is known that sometimes to make something more resilient or stronger, you may have to make it weaker or deform it first. (classic example is bolts with holes drilled in through the top which can take more force than those without the holes). this is just my thoughts based on me having done some mechanical units at uni. feel free for anyone with some hard evidence to prove something otherwise.

Yeah, CA and the R32 RB's were from the same era, so it wouldn't surprise me if they were similar in that aspect as well. only thing i can suggest is going through the diagnostics for the C/C unit and you can set a bias to the cabin temp sensor. so you make it think that it's 20C when it's 16C and therefore doesn't try to heat as much... just means you lose your top end of heating... Interesting... would love to know why just out of interest if nothing else... well, the power steering fluid pressure *shouldn't* be affected by the A/C turning on seeing as they are 2 separate systems. have you checked so make sure the A/C compressor is still bolted to the block properly and all your belts are ok? also check your power steering fluid just to make sure (can't hurt to double check). does the steering pull happen as soon as A/C is turned on or happens a little while after it's turned on (say like 30 sec or a min or so)?

I know that first issue is a common one, had the same thing with my 180sx which had the digital C/C. but basically from what i know, even if the display is off the system is still functioning. so typically at night when it's cooler, it will be trying to heat of it's own accord. if the heater box is done the same way as the 180sx with the CA18 engine is, then the hot water is always flowing through into the cabin which means you also always get some heat soak. alternatively, if it's connected as like the later model skylines, your valve which controls water flow may be broken/ jammed/ the control rod is bent or something which is not allowing it to close fully. but in any situation, you shouldn't be losing power when the heater is on.... A/C yes, because the compressor takes power from the engine, but the heater just passively takes the hot water and pipes it a different direction... shouldn't affect performance to a noticeable level. the pulling to the left with A/C is more interesting though.... never heard of that before. does the A/C still work fine though? is it a very strong pull to the left? or is it a very slight veering. the HICAS on the R32s was hydraulic but unless some of the control system gets affected by the A/C compressor turning on, i'm not sure how this would happen...

Just because the relay clicks doesn't mean the box is fine. there could be a crack in the colder joints (very common problem) on the wire that goes to the motor after the relay. hence relay clicks but nothing happens. either find the walk-through on here and crack it open yourself to check, or see if you can borrow a known working one from a friend. alternatively, you should be able to put 12V directly onto the window motor. this is a little bit more technical and you would have to know what you are doing but it would be able to prove if the motor is working. i would try for those first few options first though.

ahk, so you are going to be running 2 filters in parallel? never heard of this before but it does sound interesting. if you only wanted a rather small flow i guess you could use it. but based on the oil pressure sensor on the CA18 engine (which is rather similar to that of the RB series) the actual fitting was no more than 1cm in diameter. also, how are you putting the oil back into the system? are you just going to tap it up to the head somewhere or into the rocker covers? because on the normal filter, the centre hole is the return path into the engine. yeah, i had a sandwich plate on my CA18 so i could tap in an oil temp sensor, i managed to pick mine up for $20 at a closing down sale though. might be worth looking through the for sale section on here though and see if you can find a 2nd hand one. they are more or less just a chunk of metal, so i doubt there would be much of a difference in age or condition. and no, sorry, no idea on thread type.

From looking at the engine manual, it should be pretty close to the oil filter, just below and to the side judging by the picture... by oil bypass filter do you mean relocating your oil filter? or something else. i would also imagine you would get a rather small flow through the hole that the pressure switch comes from... it's not really made to have oil flowing through it.

It was probably something like that... i was just reading out of the service manual, and it says at full is 57.6L but i guess the don't specify how full is 'full'. either way. i would imagine that the warning light and the gauge run off the same sensor (cheaper to do) but i don't think the light would be based on the gauge. they would both 'look' at the sensor signal but would have a separate way of dealing with it.

do you put your foot on the brake when you start the car? Could be the brake pad not releasing properly. remember that nothing actually pulls the pads back when you lift off the brake pedal. if this is the case i don't think it's anything too serious but if it gets worse (keeps squeaks for longer, or starts making squeaks every time you brake, it would be worth having a look at the pads.) i assume the car is a R34 (based off your name), so its not that old compared to many of the other cars on here, and you don't hear that much about everyone losing bearings. that said, weird stuff does happen.

You have to take into consideration that when the needle reads "E" the tank isn't actually empty. that will explain why when you fill up you only put in 55 to 60. if the tank was completely empty when it read "E" so many more people would have been stranded at the side of the road. i don't know the exact values for the R33, but in my old 180sx, in the user manual it actually told you that on "F" there was 57L in the tank, half was 27L and the "E" mark meant that 7L was left. (don't know what the obsession with 7 was, but meh).

they are slightly different in design. that said, not sure if you can swap one for the other. i know the CAI snorkel is definitely different from R33 to R34. i have a R33 and bought a R34 snorkel. the mounting holes are in a different position BUT it still fits in the same space and i am currently running the R34 snorkel on the R33 air box. so unless someone actually tries swapping them...

an extra 20 sec isn't going to waste that much fuel, and it makes sure that oil has gotten through out the whole engine. not sure about you but my engine starts pretty quickly, there is no way the oil has gone through the whole engine in the 2 or 3 seconds it takes to start. remember also that the cold oil moves a lot slower so it wouldn't run through engine and more importantly the turbo and be lubricating as it should that quickly. if you have ever had an oil temp gauge in your car you would realise that your oil doesn't heat up much until after your water has come to operating temp. i typically start car then go check my letterbox then hope inside and drive off.

from the R33 engine manual: RB25DET= @idle RPM ~1kg/cm2 == ~14psi @2000 RPM ~3.5kg/cm2 == ~49psi @6000 RPM ~5.6kg/cm2 == ~80psi (which is about the same as the pressure on a diver at ~56m under water) when cold my engine goes a bit above 80psi before it warms up. i would double check with another gauge first though, if you are using the stock in-dash one it's known to be a bit inaccurate. but those numbers do seem a bit low.

not sure if it's the same system as the early 180sx's (mine was 1989 same era as the R32's) but there was a way to get into the diagnostics for the climate control and you can set a bias for the temperature sensor. the idea would be to make it think it's only 16C when it is actually 20C and therefore it will try to heat more (for example). somewhere on this forum should be a post on how to get into the diagnostics. also make sure that the temp sensor in the cabin is plugged in and mounted correctly. there should be some small slits somewhere around all the other controls on the dash, thats the intake for the sensor. it should have 1 plug and 1 small (wide as a thumb) tube coming off it. hopefully that helps.

Most wreckers would have them as well. i got one for my 180sx for $15. the only catch is it will already be a bit used/ worn. but if you need a quick fix for cheap it will do the trick.

compressor wouldn't be too hard to change, it just bolts to the side of the block. little bit tricky to get to because of the exhaust/ intake pipes over the top of it. just make sure it's your compressor that is dead, because as soon as you disconnect the pipes going to/ from it (or any other aircon pipes) the gas will escape which i illegal to release i believe. plus you will have to get it filled properly and have leaks checked when you bolt on a new compressor. most R33 and R34 came with the R134A gas which is the newer type and a lot easier to work with (and cheaper). not too sure about R32s.