The Mafia

bumperoo

lol. sorry about a thread revival, but do you still have the oil pump?

Hey guys. here is an update on the build. 1. I decided to bore it and get new pistons - Precision branded. They aren't forged, but a full set of 6 cost me $250. Hastings rings. 2. The Block has been decked 3. All of the exhaust valve guides where cracked, but they simply ground them right back, and countersunk them for a carbon trap. 4. RB26 oil pump was stuffed. Getting another. 5. Did the internal VCT oil feed mod. 6. Head is being shaved to raise the compression to 8.6:1. 7. no balancing.. They built it before I could give them to go ahead. Hoping it should be ok though. 8. Crank Collar Fitted. Will have the engine in about 3 days.

bump

I've never used the bung before, but I am sure its there if they say so. Just have a look around.

oh, and you're not going to get a mechanic that will flush it as good at this. And trust me, this process is the easiest bit of maintenance you can do! Took me less than an hour to do.

it will flush the block \ everything. Just remember that you have fresh water in the block, so take that into account when putting your coolant in. All I do - Take the radiator out, Jam the hose in where the thermostat goes, turn on the heater, start the car and run for a while until the water comes out clear. The tap water will keep the engine cool. Then I put it all back together (flushing the radiator manually) and pour the correct amount of coolant concentrate in, top up with distilled water, and keep topping up and bleeding until its full. You could drain the block after you flush it, so that you can get more demineralised water in there (and less tap water). But thats up to you. Pretty good idea too actually.

nah man, take the thermostat out, jam the hose in there, turn the heater on, and start the car. Keep it running for a few minutes after clean water starts coming out. Make sure the output of the water goes somewhere where it won't hit the radiator fan and spray everywhere, etc.

hey mate I am chasing a set of Throttle bodies and intake manifold for the RB26. Do you have any for sale?

Hey mate, do you still have the stock throttle bodies and intake manifold? If so, I'd like to take it off your hands.

I'll confirm this. All Powerfcs made for the R33GTS-T will suit series 1 and 2. CHange your title and you may get more potential buyers.

Had a few tyre kickers, but that doesnt matter. Decided it was time to get off my butt and put the 3.0 litre in. Should be ready in a month. Tell me about it. And quite a few have large turbos on them.

It will run, you just group the channels together. You'll end up with a wasted spark configuration. Personally, I'd avoid the haltechs like the plague. The Vipec V44 is the equavalent and it will kick is ass. You won't need a harness either - It will install inside your factory ECU case, and plug straight in. Will cost about $1300.

Sure is, ready to go.

Awesome thread Guiltoy, well done mate. You're doing great

Bump. I'm willing to pay for postage. You'll save about $300 if I do this. I'm also dropping the price to $1700.

I live in mackay. I can pull 300rwkw, and good road use, not just a full power tune, out of a properly set up car with a power FC or Vipec in just under 3 hours. This is obviously when someone brings me the car with all the things I have asked for sorted (New fuel pump, removed After market FPR, new plugs and coil packs if needed, and any other things sorted to support that power.) Microtech ECUs are absolutely shithouse to tune I might add, and they are not something to want to have anyway, as you're going to have the car back every 3 months needing a retune, for a significant amount of money. If I were you, I'd sell it, get a Vipec or Power FC, and get a decent tune in it. You're more than welcome to travel to me if you want a tune - But I will not tune a microtech. I simply don't like them. Also, I tune cars for love, not money. I only charge to maintain my gear and buy extra stuff that will help the next tune - Not to run a workshop, or take money from someone. Exactly right, seen this many times. Was the $1k installation AND the powerfc, or just the installation costs? It took me 45 mins to install a PowerFC D Jetro and boost controller kit into someones car one day.

BLEED THE SYSTEM

and my number is 0439 336 407 email : paceys[a]gmail.com

In mackay north QLD mate. Postage might be a bit, sent a gearbox for $120 through pack and send. Tell you what though, I am sure we can work out some kind of a deal. How interested is he?

I will add that the engine has done 99,00kms. Timing belt was changed at 70,00kms.

As the title States, I have a Complete RB25 ready to drop into a car. - Complete running engine (unopened) - No Fuel Rail - No Throttle body - No wiring loom - Has over the engine air intake - Has exhaust manifold Would suit an engine swap if you've blown your RB25, or an upgrade from a RB20. Engine was compression tested before the car was taken off the road, and the tests were all 160psi with a Variance of 2psi. If you not sure was this means - it means that the engine is in excellent condition. I've always used Fully synthetic oil, and changed the oil every 4,000kms. The engine is showing no signs of wear. A water methanol injection kit was used with this engine so it should be clean internally, and this would have also be the cause of it showing no signs of wear. There is something different about this engine though - It's held its 300rwkw power for quite a while, with no signs of wear. I'm thinking its got a thicker head gasket, and may have some internal work done. I do not guarantee this though, there is only a slim chance. I sell it as a standard well maintained engine. Anything else that may be inside there is yours as a bonus. The tune I have run was ALWAYS safe and maintained. As most of you know, I don't flog the shit out of my cars either, I look after them. Car never saw the limiter. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Price: $1800 ONO.

I don't buy from Nengun anymore, its not worth the stupid long waits or hassle. And they are arrogant pricks.

Kind of, my mate is a diesel fitter and he's coming over to do it, and I will be assisting. He's done a couple before, knows what he is doing. I've since found some bargains: 1. Got a set of ACL duralite Pistons (Stock replacements, but heaps lighter) these are balanced. 2. RB30 rods, Balanced. The ACL pistons came with rings, should I use these or get better ones? I will have to get the details on them for you all.

You learn by researching. The question has been asked 1000 times, and 999 times people direct them to the search function. You don't learn by taking the easy way out and just posting a thread on a forum I'm afraid. The search function is there to serve the forums primary purpose - To act as a huge database. So search it up, I am sure you'll see some interesting discussions on this type of build. Also, You can shove your thumbs down up your ass. People get sick of answering the same questions over and over again when people are too lazy to search. I searched for "RB26 Crank in RB25" Here is the search: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...rb26+crank+rb25 Here are some results that are plain as day. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...rb26+crank+rb25 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rb26+crank+rb25 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rb26+crank+rb25 This is why barely anyone gave a shit to reply to your thread. Its been covered...