The Mafia

the engine is out of the car already, should be an easy fix Just might not be cheap..

Well, the GTR have a blocked feed from the factory, and a restricted feed up the front. So less again. I'm pretty sure SK has said that even with a blocked feed at the back, there is still more than enough oil for the hydraulic lifters in the RB25.

dude, putting a bigger oil pump on, and not doing the rear head drain, or blocking the rear oil feed in the head makes the problem worse. The whole problem is oil pooling in the head do to bad drainage at high RPM. If you put a bigger oil pump on, it will simply pump more up there and into the catch can, creating a disaster. I've seen this happen - GTR oil pump on a RB25 with no extra drains... or the rear feed blocked. Blew most of the oil into the catch can.. and then when the sump was starved... bang. You're giving bad advice I'm afraid...

I think I know eactly how to fix the problem. You car seems to have a problem where they made a mistake and put too many doors on it. Simply unbolt the rear doors, and weld plates over where they were, and all of your problems should go away. lol. Do you have an aftermarket blow off valve? If you do, then a lot of people here are going to kill you.

there is a massive thread based on the oiling problems that plague the RB25. I'd find it and do everything that it suggests, because most of the problems arise when doing track work, in high revs.

there is nothing wrong with mine, I think I might not worry about chasing more power. And the fact that we barely have 98ron fuel here, I doubt we'll get E85 anytime soon

I'd go the 800cc injectors, that way you can use E85 if you have it in your area. Plus you have head room for bigger upgrades. I regret buying 555cc injectors.

thats the type of answer I wanted to hear Awesome, its rare to see people with cars designed for a specific purpose, not just thinking of horsepower. I bet Geoff is right too.

with a setup that well designed for boost control, I would have thought you would have optioned for at least a GT3076 (6 blade version) ?? Not knocking it, but that turbo will produce sub 300rwkw outputs, but a good mid range. Just think thats a bit of an overkill for hte powerlevel you are going to achieve. Well done none the less, don't take my comments as slander, just more curiosity. Jono

jsut remember that boost holds them shut mate. But the GTR ones are supposed to allow more volume of air to pass through

means you haven't bled it enough mate Keep bleeding it and see how you go

HIcas is easy - Locking bar, and then remove the bulb from behind the dash. I'd do the same with the airbags - Remove the bulb.

if you don't have the boost control kit installed, turn it off on the hand controllers "etc" menu The engine light will go out.

runnig a turbo that big, you're out of your mind if you don't get a decent ECU.

cheapest way is the get the garret equivalent which is a Garrett 3071. But then you'd be better off going straight for a GT3037 (GT3076 - 6 blade wheel compressor)

high flows are crap anyway, most blow prematurely, and they are laggy for the power they output. I'd get a 2835 instead of a 2535 anyway.

2835 by far.

Yours might have a different configuration like a smaller rear - to which it would fall off the power quickly. HOw much power are you making? Do you have a dyno graph? Yeap. Disco is correct - These are the three best alternative turbos. I apologise for not giving detailed information last night, was a bit tired.

I guess so. Don't have to use a stock one, just a decent one I guess. And yeah, just plumb it back into the intake pipe pretty close to the turbo inlet

just throw a well thought out plumb back BOV on it mate. I took my BOV off, and my car started stalling, and sounding "fully sick" Anyway, stock one back on, no more stalling, or loud bullshit noise.

We are giving him the best advice, and a screamer is not good advice. He's 19, and I am 27. I know what the go is with the police, and I am sick of young dickheads putting this shit on, making it hard for me to take my pride and joy out, even if its just to go and get some milk. Mate, the GT3040 turbo is a piece of shit. I have tuned 4-5 cars with them, they are laggy, under performing, and sound like junk. They do nothing until the car hits about 4000rpm, and then this big useless wave of power that falls off really quickly. I have no idea why people use them. I run a GT3037, with a 56 trim, 0.6 Compressor cover (surge slotted) and a 0.63 rear (I don't recommend a rear this small, get the 0.82) and it comes on boost a lot earlier, and makes a lot more top end than these GT3040's. Also, The GT3071 is over rated. Most people jam a tiny Skyline rear housing on it to make it "fit the dump pipe etc" and wonder why it maxes out at 240rwkw. They aren't quite as laggy as the GT3037, but thats because of the restrictive rear that you put on them. Having a 71mm Compressor instead of a 76mm Compressor also helps them be a little more responsive, but even if you put a decent garret rear on them, you're risking it trying to make anymore than 270rwkw. This is the best advice given. The GT3037 looks exactly the same as the GT3071. And there is no such thing as "simple bolt up". You still need new oil and water lines. If you use Skyline housings (if thats even possible for the compressor cover) You're going to be bitterly disappointed when the tuner tunes it and only makes 230-240rwkw. Shoe horned into foreign housings is a very bad thing. Destroys the physics of the original turbo flow maps. I agree again, you need all new oil and water lines. (done it!) They are a bolt on with a spacer, I used a 10mm spacer. BUT, the garret turbine housing requires a dump pipe to suit. Dump pipes are a lot less than getting a dodgey rear housing profiled to suit the turbo, bolting it all up, tuned for $800, being disappointed, and then realising you need a new rear, new dump pipe, and a new tune. (You'd waste over $1000 changing it all over) Anyway, there is a educated response. Do you know why I know all of this? Because I did it all the wrong way too. I learnt from it, and put on the GT3037, with all the native housings, and did it all properly, and will never look back. These are the only 3 turbos worth using within this power range in my opinion: GT-RS - 240rwkw - 260rwkw GT3037 - 260rwkw - 320rwkw GT3540 - 330rwkw - 380rwkw

thats fine then. Just pissed about getting harrased for owning a skyline because of stupid shit others are doing.

actually, most setups with noisy exhausts, screamers, and bov's are just a big pain in the ass. Do you know how many young dickheads have done burnouts, made heaps of noise, crashed, etc, and now, I can't even drive mine around the corner at 20kmph without some cop pulling me over and defecting me with shit like "intercooler pipe through the inner guard" or "exhaust hangs too low (when it doesn't) If you put the screamer on, I hope you get defected and taken off the road, and lose your license. There are too many idiots doing illegal shit, causing such drama for people that just want to own a fast car - legally. There is nothing illegal about my car, I race it at drag meets, and drive very sedately on the street, yet I am harassed because of young dickheads doing stupid illegal shit thinking its great, giving skylines one big f**k off of a bad name.

ditch them both and get a 3037 oh, and throw the screamer in the bin, They are stupid.

Stock ECI is crap. Get a Powerfc and lean those mixtures, and I guarantee you'll notice an improvement. ALso, after about 10psi of airflow, the ECU starts to go into a "rich and retard" mode that causes massive power loss (30rwkw)