The Mafia

Its not going to work like that mate. You can't just put on a "smaller stronger" turbo, and make it work harder to get the same amount of power or more. Turbos restrict air, and the smaller you go, the more it will restrict. You need a decent turbo with a carefully selected set of wheels, trims, turbine housing, etc.

nah mate, I made 314rwkw on 18psi, with standard cams. I wouldn't waste your money on them unless you are aiming to make over 350rwkw with a GT35r.

lol, the BOV wankers are getting more witty by the minute. Maybe you should install a second one, it should make your BOV sound louder, and more women will get wet, and try and dive through the window. Thanks for thread number 5,000,001 on "omg guys, my fully sick BOV that attracts women and police, is making my car stall. omg, why? I know absolutely nothing about how a vent to atmosphere introduced an air leak causing MAF equipped cars to stall, so I'll just post another thread on here and ask the question for the 5,000,000th time." Long bullshit story short: If you want your car to behave, put the stock BOV back on. There is a reason why it returns the air back into the turbo, not to atmosphere. If you have a larger turbo, and need the extra volume "blown off", install a recirculation aftermarket BOV, not a duck whistle atmo one. Second hand GTR ones are also good. You need to plumb them back too, of course. There's your explaination. You're actually lucky you got one before your thread got locked.

Well, thats maybe because you introduced a massive f**king air leak into the intake system? Use your SEARCH button, and you might find about 5,000,000 threads about this, and how we've totally hammered the f**k out of some people that just want to put a happy twirly duck whistle poofter call cop magnet vent to atmosphere BOV on their car. If your lucky, there might be 1 person out of every 10 posters that will give you an explaination on why your AIR LEAK is causing the car to stall, etc, without being an ass like I did..

why don't you just put in a set of 800cc injectors? I've used 1000cc injectors in RB20's and had them idling as good as factory. RB25s are going ot be the same. I also have 555cc Nismos running 315rwkw, and they are at 80% duty cycle at standard fuel pressure. (Standard regulator)

ummm, go to a garrett distributer and order a brand new GT3540 with a 0.6 compressor cover, and a Externally gated Exhaust housing and it should cost you about $1500 at the most. Unless you are getting the ford one cheaper than say $800, I'd just get a real one.

sorry to hear man, better luck next time. Maybe Write down a pre-start checklist? CHeck things off and make sure they are all inspected by 2 people before starting and running?

just confirming that Paul is 100% correct, and there is nothing wrong with the powerfc rev limiter. Its better than any other attachment you can install.

lol, x2. You can't defend that kind of setup at all. Its rubbish, and will never be efficient.

sorry, gotta ask because there are a lot of pullers around If I can think pf anything I will let you know

no worries. 800hp. Are you being sarcastic or what?

little off topic but Standard RB20 injectors with a GT3040?

I made 314rwkw with 18psi, and a water methanol kit. You should be making at least 280rwkw.

well, the idea of a turbo charger and heat, is so the exhaust gases are hot and "excited" and spool the turbine a lot faster than the much cooler low flow of air at the back of the car. The response out of one of those setups would be terrible. Plus they have a hell of a lot more pipe distance to cause leak problems.

lol those "all the way to the back of the car" setups are the biggest load of crap, defeating the purpose of turbo charging a car.

yeah, sounds like a great idea. You'll have the laginess of a Hi flowed turbo, that will be ever laggier on a large high mount manifold, just screaming to be defected because it in full view of the police officer.

hey mate, still haven't finished it as the owner like to do things a little slow. Going well, but it needs a new fuel pump. AS soon as he gets one in and I've fully tuned it I will let you know.

My nismos are 4 spray. More holes means better atomisation

well, I Made 314rwkw at 18psi on a stock RB25 manifold, and with a GT3037 with a little 0.63 IW rear. I've run it up to 22psi for a few months, made heaps more power but I never dyno'd it. Everything seemed fine. Just remember, the bigger you go on the manifold, the more its going to add to lag.

Link ECU's actually use the factory solenoid as a electronic boost controller apparently. And they go up to 14psi before they run out of duty cycle

here's 2 things that I know of that stop cats from working. 1. they usually die after about 40,000 kms. 2. If your car is running rich, they die.

ahaha awesome, excellent work.

I'd just buy a set of Nismo 555cc injectors like I did, will manage 320rwkw easily. Oh, should only cost about $600 too.

how much boost, and list your mods. I have a hunch that you are hitting the Rich and retard. To save us all time also, do a search on "rich and retard" you'll see millions of posts that could solve your problem

I've heard loud pinging at 38 knock on the hand controller... Don't always believe what you see