R3N3
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Posts posted by R3N3
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Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Nice!
might be an option if the current fan clutch dies
I really hope someone slides into my DMs and wants to buy my car, I'll then stop donating money to the Nissan car gods.
They are also releasing their aircon kit for the 33 in the next week or two… I have been looking into a new condenser for mine and can’t get anything under $1k. I’d rather spend more and overhaul the entire system..
haha. honestly, I’ve had an F80 M3 and as fun as they are, they are so intimidating maintenance wise. I was always scared I heard a noise etc. and there was no way I’d try work on that car.. BMW gods are much worse on the wallet..
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Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
FPG shroud looks pretty decent!
How are the air flaps held in place?
They have 3x rubber tabs on each one that are pulled through pre-drilled holes. They are nice and tight. Quality is A+.
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On 6/1/2023 at 11:12 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I'm using a V35 Skyline pedal, same as the 350Z one but without the alloy pad (I did have a 350Z one but sold it as I wanted a rubber pedal to match the brakes/clutch).
Doesn't say what car/setup so hard to say.
Generally Haltech support is good at getting back to you, probably still off this week. Hopefully next week you'll get a response
Problem all sorted. Thanks for your help @Dose Pipe Sutututu.
I had the “disable injector power when engine stopped” option on, which was stopping a +12v supply to pin A26. Turned the option off and all calibrates fine!
also, the FPG shroud came:
just waiting on some new Deutsch connectors to connect it up.
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6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
try borrow a pedal off another car
Not setting up rolling anti-lag?
I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha
Also, I’m wondering if this may be a source of my problem:
https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=35278&p=74212&hilit=350z+pedal#p74212
apparently the injector return current powers the dbw circuit. Now, as I have removed the fusebox and gone PDM (the injectors and injector return are now fed from an 8A HCO output), which I don’t think I have set this output up..
Their problem also seems Identical to mine. I will have a play in the morning and report back.
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6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
try borrow a pedal off another car
Not setting up rolling anti-lag?
I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha
What pedal do you use? From what I have read is different pedals can do things slightly differently…
https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/
this site is saying the 350z pedal APP outputs should be different, which aligns with what I’m seeing…
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13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
try borrow a pedal off another car
Not setting up rolling anti-lag?
I need to setup cruise control too but I've run out of inputs and can't feed the brake pedal in haha
We’ll see about the anti-lag… it’s a stock motor (for now)..
yeah, it’s so easy to chew up all the AVI’s and SPI’s! I needed the PDM for the additional inputs.
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11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Just checked again, and yes both APP1 and APP2 are pretty much in sync
Interesting! Thanks for posting this.
makes me wonder how the pedal was able to calibrate..
maybe i need to try a different pedal?
in other news I have decided on my buttons for the keypad:
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1 minute ago, r32-25t said:
I always thought one was supposed to go from 0>5v and the other goes from 5>0v
Yes, my TPS’ are indeed showing inverted voltages.
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36 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.
I have just unplugged the pedal connector and checked the voltages supplied to both APP circuits with a multimeter. Both are getting 5v, so that rules out any of my dodgy wiring (to those pins anyway).
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3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.
Ok, I was just reading some googles that said they are offset.. I’m definitely no expert! I’m running a 370z pedal if that makes any difference.. thanks for your help!
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38 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
hmmm
I see that APP1 vs APP2 has difference voltages, they "should" be nearly the same.
Maybe try borrow another pedal from someone or from someone's nan's Nissan X-Trail lolol...
I thought they are supposed to be offset by approx 50% for fail safe? Would the pedal cause the throttle calibration issues?
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2 minutes ago, R3N3 said:
Ok. The pedal calibrates fine though?
below is a screen pic of when the throttle calibration is running:
its applying duty cycle (and it’s audible) but the throttle barely moves (not even to the fully closed position).
to verify the throttle wasn’t stuck, I physically moved it, with the below results:
It shows the TPS itself (middle graph) is working fine? And the top graph is plotting the APP (pedal press was independent to throttle calibration).
thoughts?
Also for shits and giggles I switched the pins for the motor + and - at the ecu connector to see if it made a difference. No bueno.
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33 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
double, triple check your DBW TB wiring, there are some models the pins are reversed for whatever reason, also do the same on the pedal.
Can you get a screen of all your voltages?
Ok. The pedal calibrates fine though?
below is a screen pic of when the throttle calibration is running:
its applying duty cycle (and it’s audible) but the throttle barely moves (not even to the fully closed position).
to verify the throttle wasn’t stuck, I physically moved it, with the below results:
It shows the TPS itself (middle graph) is working fine? And the top graph is plotting the APP (pedal press was independent to throttle calibration).
thoughts?
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So, been playing around setting all the I/O’s and the only one issue I have is the throttle body will not calibrate.. it’s throwing a ‘P2109’ fault code.. will touch base with haltech to try sort.
other than that, everything is good! All that’s needed now is to re-make the turbo oil and water lines (not happy with first attempt). Then I will double check all bolts/fittings before putting fluids in.
a couple of pics of the finished interior:
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Wiring loom is now complete, with ECU turning on and no fires or fried electronics to be seen… The IC-7 is also working nicely with the indicators, screen dimming with lights on, park brake etc. all working nicely. All the factory vehicle functions that were patched in work nicely too!
I have upgraded the ECU to the latest NSP software, started with a haltech R33 base map and am in the process of allocating all I/O’s and checking sensor tables etc.
on its way from Brisbane is the FPG fan shroud and fitting kit, where I will run the 3000cfm SPAL fan via the PDM, which will replace the factory clutch fan.
now just counting down for all the fab work then the tune..
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23 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Definitely keen on the results!
A good test is to park the car stationary and leave the A/C on for a good 15 minutes and see what your coolant temps are like.
On a 36 degree (Celsius for those Americans reading) with the A/C on for a good 15 minutes my coolant temp would sit about 99 ~ 103 degrees, oil temp about 105 degrees. As soon as I drove for 15 seconds, that would drop back into the low 90s.
Without A/C on at all, when stationary the water would stay in the low 90s, once moving mid to high 80s.
Funny enough, when I'm giving it a hard time at the track (i.e. going around a circuit not down a drag strip) water temps generally don't move far from mid to high 80s (I suppose there's heaps of air being forced in from the front of the car).
Maybe you should “invest” in the new PRP RB electric water pump… might also help the belt spitting issue..
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On 18/12/2022 at 9:46 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Might take you up on the offer on the fan hub fits.
Will do Google tonight, intensely lol.
If not 2x options, both equally costly.
1. New OEM hub
2. FFG shroud and 16" Spal fan.
I have ordered the FPG fan shroud, so can provide a direct comparison against stock. I will be using it with the 3000cfm fan.
I was originally running a thermo (with a proper shroud) using a hks fan controller, with relatively good luck. Only went back to stock as fan controller shat itself.
Keep in mind I’m the kinda guy that cruises round the Bunnings car park, not the track haha.
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15 minutes ago, BK said:
That's the way I just had it - same shit going on.
Bugger, I’m hoping I don’t get this issue..
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17 hours ago, BK said:
Was waiting to see your input. You mentioned you were having starting issues but that was just down to having your arming voltage at cranking rpm too high, correct ?
So you've never encountered the hot start issue ? I'll look into it further before I bin the NZ wiring kit, but short of having a grounding issue that occurs once hot I'm running out of ideas. We have discussed this before but exact pins are you using ? I'm using pins 1 and 4 on the CAS loom direct with a DT connector, which is terminated on an Elite 2000/2500 as:
CAS pin 1 at Trigger + ECU pin B1
CAS pin 4 at Signal ground ECU pin B14.
There is a pin B5 on the ECU specifically for TRIGGER -, but I haven't heard of that needing to be used.
I'll do some more testing with the meter and I'll do some signal scoping. I might even try as per Adam from Link suggesting to ground the neg side of the reluctor, but I'll see what the sensor back to ECU resistance is like first.
I'm wondering why in the f**k they didn't just use a Hall effect sensor like a GT101 - more forgiving with gap, not dicking around with sub 0.5v signals or trigger arming voltages etc.
I have wired mine to pins B1 (sensor black wire) and B5 on the elite 2500 (sensor white wire), which is how haltech told me to wire it. Worth a try?
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2 hours ago, Duncan said:
This is the r32 wiring (I don't have the r33 one handy), but likely the same or similar.
The diagram is not clear that ECU pin 9 to pressure switch is +, but it later states that.
So, to move AC to a PDM control just output the AC signal on pin 9 as standard, and run your PDM output to the AC relay, the you keep the pressure switch input to stop it trying to overfill.
Alternatively it you really don't want the relay you need to connect the pressure switch to ground on one side and a spare DPI on the other. Then connect the PDM output to the compressor directly. Then setup the ECU to use that DPI as a condition to turn on the AC output.
Keep in mind that is only half the AC control. The other half depends on what the climate control is set at.
This is what I was thinking, although may be out of my depth wiring/programming wise… I will add the necessary wires into my loom (and not bin the relays just yet) and then give it a go. At least it’s pretty simple to go back to the factory method.
here is a snip from the R33 wiring diagram:
this was a screenshot from the iPhone, so quality may not be the best..
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So while planning the loom fix for the A/C relay, I thought why not just ditch the relay and power from PDM? It will definitely simplify things and free up an output on the haltech.
my basic understanding of the A/C system (based on vehicle wiring diagrams):
- A/C controller sends signal to ecu (pin 46)
- ecu provides 12v out to engine bay (pin 9)
- 12v from ecu goes via the pressure switch (canister near radiator)?
- pressure switch then enables A/C and auxiliary fan relays, turning on compressor and fan when water temp gets hot?
Based on this, just simply running an 8A output to compressor would seem to bypass pressure switch, witch doesn’t seem like a good idea? I’d need to wire the pressure switch with 12v and an AVI to create a rule to then switch compressor on?
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13 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:
Hah, and I didn't see yours when I was looking for some. Looks like it's a similar idea / design.
It's one reason why I like reading the build threads here. Like for example the custom ashtray keypad mount you mentioned a few posts earlier went straight on the maybe-one-day-santa-list
Yeah, to be fair I stole the idea from @Dose Pipe Sutututu . The mount is great, it even uses the ashtray spring clips to hold it in place. I’ll get him to update his website to include it (if he hasn’t already).
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5 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:
How are you mounting them? If you haven't made up your mind yet, there are some custom made brackets for sale on the forums that mount under the seat. The topic is a few years old but they still make them and I just received mine one or two weeks ago. Haven't put it in yet though. They have them in stock again now.
See this post for details:
I didn’t see that. I found a crowd in aus called RB factory that make R33 specific ones:
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So I thought I had the loom 100%, then I went to hook up the AC relay and can’t find the wire in the cabin side of the loom (it’s in the bay side). So I’ll have to pull the loom out and find the cable.. otherwise I’m pretty stoked with the wiring effort (first time I have ever done any proper electrical work) . All tested up ok with a multimeter. Rather than buying a CAN hub through Haltech, I just chopped up all the CAN cables, crimped and heat-shrunk them to daisy chain all the add-ons together, here’s hoping it works…
I bought a new turbosmart race port BOV to be installed, which is required for the hypergear warranty..
The most important mod this week will be passenger and driver side fire extinguishers. These will be mounted under the seat, on the rails. I’m also still unhappy with the turbo water lines, so bought some more AN fittings (I’d hate to add up the costs of AN fittings).
car should be going to the fabricator in the next week for the folllowing:
- full exhaust - I will be going for a twin tip exhaust rather than a big cannon, as i like the more stock(ish) look
- all new 2.5” SS (I heard SS is better for heat soak?) intercooler piping, unsure if I will go silicon clamps or the plazmaman style clamps. If I go plazmaman I may have a delay as I’ll need to get the right TB adapter. I think the greddy intercooler will be fine for what I need
- new 3” SS turbo intake.
- a couple of minor cosmetic tweaks to the cam covers and coil cover (I run 20det covers, so want to remove the slight dip under where the TB used to sit and remove all mounts for the igniter etc on the coil cover). Should make it look nice and clean
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
Haha, mine is nowhere near the calibre of some of the builds on here..
That’s the thing, I’m kinda expecting breakages in the 33 and that doesn’t phase me being that it’s now 27 years old. And when it does break, then I’ll even try fix it myself..
I’m looking at upgrading my ‘work’ car from a kodiaq to an RS4/6 later this year, then I can have the best of both worlds..