R3N3
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Posts posted by R3N3
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53 minutes ago, WR33KD said:
You should have just run a non hicas r200 frame and arms and knuckles to suit, way less stress and it’s a way cleaner look under the back
Yeah, I will investigate this.
also, I will be getting a flex fuel sensor, so I will be getting me some of that ethanol you linked! Cheers!
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As part of my cert tomorrow, I had to update the HICAS lock bar, as there is some picky rules re. bars with welds. This is why I bought the PRP bar, it’s billet with no welds..
The bar itself is great but I feel there has been little thought on the actual application. I had to cut 10mm off the thread on the arms to get the toe adjustment anywhere near right. They say they are bringing out new arms for it but who knows Wel hen that’s happening.. I should have gone with a gktech full delete kit.
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6 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:
If you search this site, there a link to the R33 workshop manual somewhere.
I think I have that but it only covers the engine. Unless there’s another?
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On 23/5/2023 at 12:05 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Hopefully easy fix!
And yeah, a bit sad they removed the forum. Facebook is a bit shit, same questions get asked every week.
Fixed the speedo issue. Funnily enough, my settings were around 5221 pulses/km and I think that was calibrated at 30km/hr. Verified the speed with a shitty app that lagged heaps, so probably wrong still haha but at least I’m not doing Mach 2 anymore.
played with the idle a bit, as the tuner had it set at 900. The DBW makes this super easy and super stable! I backed it down to about 750/800rpm and it’s rock solid!
just need to figure out the fuel gauge next!
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Hi There,
Can anyone provide a formal factory Nissan wheel alignment spec sheet for the R33? I have the engine workshop manual, which is obviously not in there, so i was wondering if someone here has the more comprehensive service manuals and would like to share that specific page?
To get my car road legal in NZ, i must be within a certain tolerance of the factory spec. I just want to confirm what this is.
Cheers
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27 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:
What the heck? Did they completely axe the forums and all content? Intentionally? This blows my mind. If it was intentional it seems so incredibly misguided I can't even comprehend it.
It appears so!! I solved a lot of problems just searching on there..
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1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Try this setting, the out of the box Haltech value is much higher and reads weird
Also if you're running the latest version of the firmware, there's a known bug with VSS doing a few thousand km/h lol
Yes, I did have the latest firmware, so I think that’s the issue! Also, no more haltech forum?? I joined that FB page too..
the fuel sensor issue on the IC7 also seems to be firmware related. For some reason the software isn’t updating it with the latest firmware…
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13 minutes ago, Looney_Head said:
heads up for the cert, when i did mine, i had to have two loops due to how and where the center hanger was.
great work on the car, looking and sounding good. and solid power
Thanks!
Funny that. My cert guy was the one who said I needed 1… let’s see what happens.
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So I got the head unit all installed this weekend:
Wireless CarPlay is the goods! I just need to wire up the reversing camera and the reverse input. I tidied
All weekend I have tried calibrating both the fuel level sender (in the IC7) and the vehicle speed (through the ECU), with no luck. The vehicle speed issue means I can’t test out the cruise control…
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3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I suppose WMI could be an option!
LOL I can't believe you're already thinking of building a RB30
Haha got to have a contingency plan right??
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22 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
very nice power band you must be super happy, now for a flex fuel setup. Looking at the boost, and power curve, etc. there's enough headroom for near 400kW at the hubs! Power is still climbing, still room for more boost
(don't listen to me, you'll end up making 400kW and then the motor will go bang and you'll have a sads then do something dumb like build a motor and regrets all round)
Haha. E85 is not easily accessible here in NZ, as it’s no longer sold at fuel stations (I think nation wide now). However… I have found a supplier who can ship large drums of the BP racing corn juice. I even wired in a connector for a flex sensor in the engine bay. I am just working through the legalities around the storage of the fuel etc.
My limiting factor at the moment for more power will be my clutch. It’s a HD full face organic clutch, which is rated to around 300ish kw and 450Nm torque, which is where I am. I will start to assemble parts for my stage 2 build, which will likely be a RB30, so when it does go bang I have something ready to drop in..
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Here are the final dyno reports for each boost setting:
wastegate spring (7psi):
note that gate pressure sees the boost creep up to 12psi.
12 psi:
15psi:
20psi:
Went for a quick drive up and down the street after the tow truck dropped the car off and man it is nice. The sound of the turbo, exhaust, intake and BOV is just so nice! The power feels so linear in how its delivered.
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R33 Rb25det unopened engine
Greddy intake manifold
82mm Bosch DBW
@hypergear ATR43SS-2 ball Bering turbo
Factory exhaust manifold
45mm external gate welded to turbo housing
3 inches intake pipe
Greddy front mount intercooler with 3” piping
3.5” exhaust (3” from turbo, stepped up to 3.5” at wastegate merge)
1000cc Xspurt injectors
Haltech Elite 2500 ECU
Tuned by Revolution Engine Services (NZ)
Final result of 314kw (at the hubs) on pump 98 fuel at 19psi, hitting full boost by 4000RPM.
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15 minutes ago, Duncan said:
Odd. The standard one is accepted in Australian racing.
You probably just need flat bar between the floor rather than a "hoop" as the tailshaft is above floor level in the tunnel
Nope, needs to be a hoop. Minimum 5mm steel. I’ll take a pic later. But yes, it is odd
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10 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
interesting rule!
I recall you guys have another odd one where you can run a screamer pipe, provided it goes all the way to the rear of the car and exits next to the rear muffler.
That used to be true. As long as it vented to atmosphere behind the cabin of the vehicle. I think now that all exhaust gas has to go through a muffler also.
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15 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
yeah interested he needs another one? Unless I'm reading this wrong: "I also need to install a driveshaft hoop, which has been made and ready to go on."
Yes, any cert because of a power increase triggers it (a manual swap doesn’t).the driveshaft hoop is for each section of driveshaft, as the R33 has 2 pieces it requires 2. However, as @Duncan pointed out, the rear section (if I remember right) already has one with the hanger bearing, so i only need one for the front section.
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49 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Do they do an emissions test too?
I know if I tried with my car I would need to make it quieter, run smaller wheels, install a 400 cell cat, plumb back the catch can, reinforce the body work for the FMIC piping cut out, etc.
So much harder in NSW, Australia. Other states in Australia are a bit easier.
No, no emissions test and you only trigger the need for a cat converter if you do an engine swap (hence i dont have one). A catch can is a bit of a grey area at the moment, how i read the legislation i have to, but the cert guy says no, so who am i to argue... I also need to install a driveshaft hoop, which has been made and ready to go on.
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Plan now is to get it 100% road legal. In NZ we have to get the car certified for the mods. This basically involves a thorough inspection, road drive etc. Technically my car was already certified but it was not done with engine mods (just suspension), so things like the dash, keypad and wastegate will be a dead giveaway… we also have to cert the wheel sizes, so by me just going from 17s to 18s would also trigger a re-cert.
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Video of the 19psi power run:
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Tuning went well!
Car made 420hp at 19psi at the hubs. Full boost by around 4000rpm.
Base boost pressure is a nice streetable 10psi with 3 different settings up to 20 (via keypad).
@Dose Pipe Sutututu, the tuner said he barely needed his big fan with the FPG kit, as it could hold it solid at 82deg through the power runs.
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10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
This is what you need to adjust, ideally you want the trigger arming voltage to be a touch lower than the actually voltage read at the cranking RPM.
I would setup a screen similar to this, and then cranking the car and see what you need to adjust the trigger arming voltage to be at.
This is from a Haltech article
https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/trigger-arming-voltage
Awesome, thanks!
unfortunately I have misplaced the shims between the workshop and home, so I’ll have to just go with as it is for now for the tune tomorrow. I’ll order more shims and adjust the voltages myself.
I did a final once over tonight. I pulled the injectors for an inspection, as I remember one didn’t go in so smoothly (my error). Turns out I bent the tip slightly. I’m not sure this is a major?
no biggie, as I ordered 2 spares when I purchased (I like to have a spare of most things).
Other than that, car is 100% good to go for tomorrow.
I also purchased and installed the gktech bash plate, as I’ve always hated that the underside of the engine was exposed.
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1 minute ago, Duncan said:
or, just run it a few minutes, it is self clearencing
Haha, I have taken the shim out just so I can move the car round…
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I have noticed today that the trigger wheel is just touching the sensor, causing a not so nice noise (which made me panic). Anyway, the kit comes with shims, chucked one in and it won’t start… obviously the sensor is now spaced too far from the teeth and can’t pick up a signal for the haltech.
@Dose Pipe Sutututu and/or others with the same trigger kit, is there a setting in the haltech software to adjust the sensitivity, so I can space the sensor out?
NZ R33 Long Term Build
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted · Edited by R3N3
So the car failed the cert, however on really minor stuff:
I should have this remedied next week and finally be legally back on the road.