Shazza24

Either way still post up what was wrong, once you have found out. U sure you don't have one of these: Variable Compression Ratio (VCR) engines Just a small joke, go on have a little chuckle. And i completely agree with you about warranty and taking it back to original mechanic/builder.

In truth you would be better off having a car that has golf ball like dimples all over it because after 60km/h wind resistance is quite a factor (ever wondered why the don't use perfectly round golf balls) but even this is still only one part and off topic. The below is taken from: http://hpwizard.com/...al-inertia.html Flywheels This section is the most complicated and hence the most long winded. My apologies in advance. First off, a change in flywheel may effect revability, ease of speed matching shifts, ease of pulling away from a stop, NVH, etc...none of which will be discussed here. So, that having been said, how does a lightweight flywheel help in terms of acceleration? In short, a lot...or not at all. Bear with me for a second. We're staged at the tree, in first gear, engine near redline, clutch pedal on the floor ready to be side-stepped, warranty ready to be voided. Light goes green, we side step, RPM drops, car surges forward, RPMs climb again, clutch starts smelling expensive. What has happened in that short time is that we've converted the rotational energy stored in the flywheel to forward motion. Now we're trying to spin it up again. To a lesser extent, this happens at EVERY gear change. The energy stored in the flywheel goes towards spinning up the rest of the drive train and moving the car forward, and then the engine works to spin the flywheel back up to near red-line speeds. So is it better to reduce or increase the inertia of the flywheel? Before we answer that, a few points: Not all flywheel energy is converted to forward motion. Some is lost to clutch slip, in the form of heating and ablation of the clutch disk. How much is lost? Depends on the speed difference of the clutch face and flywheel, the condition of the flywheel surface, the grippiness of the clutch, the speed of the shift, and some other factors I'm probably forgetting. Some of the energy is also lost to engine friction, in the form of RPM drop between shifts. So there's no definite answer to this question. As such, I've left it open in the calculator below. "Recovery Percentage" is the percent of flywheel rotational energy that gets converted to forward motion after each shift. Take your best guess. Also note that even if 100% of the flywheel energy is transferred to the drive train when you shift up, you're still likely to lose some of that energy to instantaneous wheel spin (aka "chirp"). A heavy flywheel can load the engine. This is not necessarily a bad thing. If your car is turbocharged, you can load it against the flywheel to help spool the turbos before launching...assuming your timing is good enough. And for a car with a narrow power band, the flywheel can help keep the engine in the sweet spot between shifts. The flywheel energy stored in first gear is "free". "Free" at the drag strip, anyway. Meaning time and energy spent spinning up the flywheel when staging doesn't count against your E.T. In fact, in the extreme case, a huge flywheel could actually make your car quite a bit faster. For instance, take a 3000lb car with a 100hp engine and an enormous flywheel. You could theoretically run a 10 second quarter mile...if you were allowed a few minutes to spin up the flywheel in the staging lane, and could find a way to dump the stored power without breaking anything. Like I said, this is an extreme example just to make a point. Flywheel energy storage systems can have tremendous power to weight ratios, but are a challenge for mobile applications due to gyroscopic forces and safety concerns. All that having been said, the calculator below will show you that the equivalent mass of the flywheel is HUGE, especially in lower gears. It's not uncommon for the equivalent mass of a flywheel to be 10x its static mass. Mitigating this somewhat is the fact that the equivalent mass is most significant in 1st and 2nd gears, and you may be traction limited there anyway. This calculator will display the results in two forms. The first is a raw equivalent mass calculation for each gear. This gives the equivalent mass assuming you accelerate from 0 RPM to redline in only one gear. Not terribly realistic, but it shows the diminishing effects of flywheel rotational inertia in higher gears. The second presentation is "constant equivalent mass", for lack of a better phrase, and is a bit more meaningful. This accounts for launch RPM (free flywheel energy) and the recovery of energy between shifts, at whatever percentage you specify. The equations are a bit involved, so I'll explain by example instead. Bear with me on this one... Let's say you have a 20 gallon water tank in your car. Accelerating it from idle to redline in first gear (say 30 mph) takes a certain amount of work. As you shift in to second you trigger a quick dump valve, leaving you with 12 gallons of water in the tank. In second gear you accelerate this mass of water from 30 to 60 mph. Now you shift into third, and dump 7 more gallons. You accelerate the remaining 5 gallons of water from 60 to 90 mph, and we'll stop there for now. Accelerating this variable mass of water from 0-90 mph took a certain amount of energy. The constant equivalent mass is the CONSTANT amount of mass that takes the same amount of energy to accelerate from 0-90 mph. Note that it's more than a simple average, since it takes into account the relative gear ratios, the energy recovery, and launch RPM. Hope this helps!

Spotted a grey 33 in the port at 4:30ish. Spotted a white 34 on main north at around 7pm, slow down buddy if u r on here. To all the assholes today in v8 Sttato's and Fords, i am sitting in the left lane because i choose to drive sedately and enjoy the ride!

That sir is what makes the standard boost gauge work. EDIT: I'm under the assumption that it was connected to the rear of the stock plenum.

Seriously just putter around in any turbo like it was a 4cyl n/a and you will get fuel economy even if you have standard ecu with rich mixtures. I had my mother drive my s2 r33 gts-t with light mods and she got better fuel economy than me because it comes down to your right foot.

How could they tune your ecu if its standard? Unless you have the Nistune board added to it. As for your problem it could be: Worn CAS, Air leaks on intake side. Can't really think of anything else at the moment.

Sorry about the long read but i am a fan of giving people a certain amount of info and seeing if they can figure it out themselves(Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day, but teach a man to fish and he will eat for a lifetime) + i don't think u used the search function as suggested. Guilt-Toy has been using it since 2008 and on the first post he, through his story explains about its usage and the need for tuning. However that link i posted from his thread also gave you the answer but i guess you glanced over it, which is fine as everyone is unique. "Ethanol started off as the bad boy of alternative fuels, damaging some fuel systems not designed to take what is almost pure alcohol - albeit with additives to make people vomit if they drink it and blended with petrol in varying ratios." "In a classic chicken-and-egg dilemma, car makers and fuel companies have been at a stalemate about using the fuel in Australia. Fuel companies haven't rushed E85 to market, given only a handful of cars are engineered to take it, while car makers argue there's no point selling E85-compatible cars because you can't buy the fuel. Last year, though, Holden bit the bullet by modifying two of the three engine variants available in its top-selling Commodore range to run on E85. However, Holden wasn't the first to use E5. Saab, Chrysler, Dodge and even Bentley offer E85-compatible vehicles." Nissan is not listed as a maker of cars from factory that can run e85, at least according to the article. Good luck to that fella chucking it in his turbo Mitsubishi.

Unsure about v35 but i know R32, 33, 34 would need to be tuned for it. It burns cooler and with less knocking, with potential power gains. Use your search function there are whole threads on this stuff. http://theage.drive....0205-1ahgx.html

Well no wonder they don't make much money, there getting charged twice for electricity. As for cost in terms of clutch i paid $700 (clutch + labor). Clutch was new uprated pressure plate, etc while inspecting master/slave, pivots, forks and fluid.

I'll take em. PM sent!

It all depends on the size you want for the turbine side, AR 1.06 might be a large for a 2.5L engine (it would take a lot longer to spool). You would need bigger injectors to reach the limits of this turbo, and heat may be a problem on the stock internals at 400 -600hp (unless maybe you run e85). Not sure about the answers to your other questions. I'm assuming that you have an aftermarket ecu, cos you will need it. Check out gcg, hypergear, etc. Hypergear have a range of bolt on upgrades for RB25DET's http://www.digi-hard...rbocharger.html , http://gcg.com.au/ good luck!

Would the HKS front coilovers fit a 33 gtst?

To Tritty28 good luck and for 500-600 atwkw go the RB26TT but stroker kit to 2.8 then all other supporting mods needed + some big a*s turbos. You may need about $70k+ for the engine build alone, at least thats until e85 becomes the norm but even then..... EDIT: Go the R33 boat, already modded of course.

I guess change the settings on the boost controller up bit by bit until you are back at 10psi. If you have warning/boost cut on your EBC set to 12psi. With my EBC lately i have been switching between my two settings alot because of hot then cold days. Its ultimately easier to run a adjustable wastegate actuator because once set the spring will only open the wastegate @ the pressure thats set and not really be affected by temperature differences day to day. Not sure if this is you problem, but hey what do you expect for nothin.

An EBC is basically a more advanced/adjustable version of the stock solenoid. Normally to fit a EBC the standard solenoid would be removed/disconnected.

Put your emotions away they will only work against you in the real world. England basically set it so you lose your licence and you will pay more $$$ for or not get 3rd party bodily insurance = no drivey, legally anyways.

Thats why i'm sus of people always towing trailers, as i met someone who drove around un-regoed for well over a year. Yep with a regoed trailer on the back! Most newer trucks store speed info in their on-board computers, I know the cops in SA (A few years ago now) have approched Cummins, etc for use of the plug in consult laptops to be used checking trucks speed along the Great Australian Bight. So even if they were speeding 2 days before hand they would still get fined. I personally didn't see any problems with half of that footage, however being in the drivers seat(of a 70odd tonne vehicle) is different to watching some video. Its not even about respect for trucks, it is pure fear in my books. You do not know how well maintained they are!

Really, my r33 gtst has 0.8bar radiator cap. Should i change the standard cap over to the NISMO 1.3 bar?

To the OP who started this thread, good luck and what that gentleman(one in the 4x4) is doing some people call fraud (bloody close to it anyways) and last time i checked it is a serious offence, although i doubt the local fraud squad would care much. From Wiki: In the broadest sense, a fraud is an intentional deception made for personal gain or to damage another individual; the related adjective is fraudulent. The specific legal definition varies by legal jurisdiction. Fraud is a crime, and also a civil law violation. Have lost count of the number of times that a 4x4 cut me off without indicating or looking forcing me to either brake harshly or take evasive action. Grew up in the country and these city slickers driving around in their 4x4's are a joke. F250's(by far one of the larger 4x4's) are outdated and unless your towing something in the vicinity 40ft yacht shouldn't be allowed on our roads.

It could be coilpacks, bad earth, ecu(Rich & Retard) and/or a myriad of other things. Sorry i cant offer any more help than that at the moment.

True that and a hell of alot less induction noise! Have also seen the odd GTR with blue/white GT badges instead of red/white.

Birds, although you can put pod filters on any engine i have found some auto's don't like them (idle problems when fitted). If the cops had any brains they would use wikipedia to understand turbocharging, then inspect exhaust manifolds. Once you know what your looking for, even low mount turbos stand out like dogs balls.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/194033-how-to-get-more-power-from-a-naturally-aspirated-na-engine/ That should help a bit. Try looking next time, this took a whole 10 seconds to find. Good Luck!

Is it possible to put the Active LSD on a 33 gts-t? Are the door scuff trims metal? Any GTR seats? Thanks, Shannon Sent PM as well.

To end the confusion, they are GT 3's as i own a set! GL with the sale!