Irwin123

Hi all, I have an r32 gtst with rb25 motor and gearbox making 300rwkw. My plans are to soon go on e85 with cams and bump this up to higher 300's. Anyway that is not the query, Recently did a track day at Symmons plains in TAS and found myself maxxed out in 5th gear down the straight, it still has the std r32 4.3 diff ratio. From my research i have semi concluded that a 3.9 would pose the best of both worlds for me as a 4.1 doesn't make a huge difference although it will help. Only problem being a 3.9 is posing very hard to find in TAS, i have had my eye out for a few months. A r33 (4.1) diff had come up for sale which i purchased for $50, so my plan was if i found a 3.9 diff (sr20det auto) that i would put the 3.9 in the r33 diff and have two diffs that i can change simply by swapping diffs. (3.9 will more than likely be 6 bolt shafts whereas r33 should be able to swap straight in?) I know that a 3.9 would make it feel more laggy, but it is a rediculously responsive setup currenty, and i will probably get some better fuel economy with a 3.9 for light driving A taller ratio will also help reduce the wheelspin which would be nice. My question is what is your opinion on ratio? Has anyone changed from a 4.3 to 4.1 or 3.9? Does it make it feel alot slower or does the longer gears outweigh for the less torque applied with a taller diff? Do many of you use 5th gear at the track? Any help will be much appreciated as i keep wasting time researching and for no gain.. Thanks, Chris.

LCA's & NRG kit back up for sale! sellers backed out

NRG kit sold pending payment

Coilpacks sold! LCA's sold pending payment

Coilpacks sold pending payment

I have some things that are laying around the garage that i want to get rid of, Best to send me a msg on: 0407 323 643. Located in Launceston Tasmania, postage is not a worry. NRG Quick tilt and short boss kit to suit R32, R33, R34, GTS & GTR, 260z, 280z & 300zx. Great for anti theft as it includes a lock (solid construction) that covers the bolts to attatch the boss kit to the car, locking at an angle. (As seen in pictures) making the car undrivable. A common substitue to a quick release boss kit making it easier to get out of the car in a full bucket seat and deep dish steerin wheel. $180 Rb25 s2 superspark coilpacks: held 300rwkw but have since upgraded to yukons (bracket not included). $200 rb25 manifold: $40 rb25 std injectors: 100% working when removed, $80 R32/s13 control arms: $110 (needs 1 new ball joint) .72 rear t3 housing, suit 3076. (50mm pipe welded on for vband clamp gate, can organise a new flange to be welded on.) Welding was carried out by a professional, heated and cooled in lime. Bronze covered just incase of cracking. $100

Here are some parts that are lying around in the garage that i want gone: S13/r32 lower control arms. can get pics if needed: $150 NRG Quick Tilt, will need a short boss kit to fit. Great for anti-theft as the included lock covers steering wheel nuts: $160 R33/RB25 std turbo + manifold, 80xxx km, never had any troubles, upgraded to 3076. Everyone knows what they look like, can get pics if needed: $250 R33/RB25 advance mild steel 3” dump to cat to suit standard turbo with screamer pipe: $150 Superspark coilpacks, good condition, holding 300rwkw fine, however got a good price on Yukon coilpacks so will be swapping them over soon. $200 Excedy cushion button clutch (pink) to suit rb (push style) upgraded to giken twin and its been sitting around for too long. Little rusty but works fine, great clutch for feel and bite. $250 Located in Launceston Tasmania, can post Aus wide. Contact me on: 0407 323 643

I have a r33 3" dump with screamer to cat, mild steel $175 to your door

Oil pump sold, bump peoples want this stuff gone

Turbo sold! offers will be considered on other products

turbo pending, Price drop $200 posted for dump pipe offers on the rb26 gear?

Bump guys, want this gone may part swap for new rb25 balancer.. Price drop $850 cash for both dump and turbo this weekend only!

Ill be in as well, been a while since iv been on the bf

Located in Tas

to the top

BUMP! Lots of interest, However due to someone stuffing me around i lost my other sales. So from now on first in gets it!

I would also like to know this, ross nexus balancer is the same price as genuine nissan ones in australia. Having trouble getting anywhere in the usa to send me a balancer (They sell them around $200usd + postage) Nissan want $470! Also need a 100xxx timing kit and r32 speedo cable, so anyone know where to get cheap genuine parts? on another note, eboost street is on its way from the us of a

ill try and get a new balancer then, Thanks for the help!

Yeah thats what i thought, eboost is supposed to be pretty good isnt it Could i get an ebc with gain after i get the car tuned? or when it comes on earlier will it effect the tune...? Had found a balancer under $200 in the states but they wont ship to aus... so will be around $450 for a balancer, thinking i might just not worry ?

No worries, std water and oil pump it is! Although i think i might get a new balancer if i can source one cheap enough, 20 year old rubber is more than likely worn out.... Thanks a heap for the help guys, no matter how much you read old threads it just seems to make things more confusing sometimes On another note, your opinion on ebc compared to manual controller? Using the ebc to hold the gate shut, does it make that much difference in response vs. a close spring rate in the gate to start with?

The time has nearly come to put the final goodies on my car (3076 kit etc.) And the time has arrived for my 100xxx service. Hence i have a few questions, the car is not a daily anymore and will be used once a month ish for spirited drives and i would like to start getting it to the track. After researching timing belts, i am inclined to go with standard genuine timing belt to allow for stretch with heat in the motor. As i live in tas and the heat is not the same as on the mainland, could i get away with running a n1 water pump? or is it worth saving the hassle of any problems and going new standard? it will only be revved to 7k. Or should i just put a better radiator in down the track? Also, would it be worth going an n1 oil pump with the reimax gearset? Although I dont want to run into any oil problems as i am not pulling the engine out to put restrictors in the block or head drain etc. ( It will only cost me about $450 for pump and gearset new) although n1 doesnt flow to exessive? Just while everything is pulled apart it wouldn't be to much cost vs time to do this mod if it saves the engine down the line, but i haven't heard of many standard pumps fail. As it doesn't have a crank collar just thought the stronger gears might be a good precaution. Also what oil should i run? 10w-40 full synthetic? Thoughts on putting a catch can with return to sump? Anything else you can think of that might prolong the engine would be great, keeping in mind i am a reasonably poor uni student these days Not sure if i am being too much of a worry wart, but any help would be much appreciated Cheers, Chris.

Hi all, i have a few things lying around the house: Rb25 highflow turbo, was told it would flow into the 450hp region, had it inspected by my turbo mechanic and its in good condition with no end play. He said it would be a good turbo for a street car, comes with rb20 10 psi actuator, Never got the chance to put it on my car $825 posted Aus wide. r32/33 split dump/exhaust to cat. Made by advance in Australia, they make good exhausts and this ones mild steel as well. Screamer pipe would be hard to notice when installed. $275 posted Aus wide. or Both together for $1000 posted Aus wide. Rb26 oil pump, $100 posted Aus wide. 2x rb26/30 timing belts, used for 5000k each $50 for pair or $30 each posted Aus wide. Rb26 harmonic balancer, looks to be in good condition $125 posted Aus wide. Contact Chris on: 0407323643

Hi guys, as the topic states i am after a 3037 .68 hks exhaust housing with internal wastegate.. Does anyone have one, or know where i could get one? Having trouble sourcing a new or second hand one on the internet so i thought it would be best to ask the pros on here. Any help would be much appreciated! or does anyone know if cracks in the housing can be repaired succesfully? Thanks a bunch, Chris.

Hi all, i have for sale my haltech e11v2, ecu only. I am asking what i paid which is $600 and i will throw in free australia wide postage. Contact me on: 0407323643 Thanks, Chris.

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