cefiro

From what I have read it would be worthwhile doing, BM44 should be sweet, I upgraded mine and running GTR brakes at its fine. I think some people have experienced some saggyness with the smaller BM, but not everyone.

Can I put my 2cents in have you looked at using a company who buy directly through aucion houses, I dont know if prest, j-spec and others need to add to their FOB prices to pay for an independant buyer to purchase the vehicle, so you pay for j-spec and also for their buyer as well. increasing the price of the car.

should be able to get a pair for about $300 less if your lucky

What are they like to modify??? Easy?? hard?? obviously cant opt for a big single with the v config but what about everything else how do they take to it????

CHeers Everyone Yeah i will definitley have a bit more of a think about the 260rs will have to see if I can scratch a couple of more grand together and maybe go for a higher km 260 easier said than done, who knows maybe I could be luck and pick up a cheap one on a day when noone wnats one. Looking forward to joining the club.

Sorry mate I was meaning 300kw at the engine not at the wheels big difference I know. Seems its possible to get those figures on that budget. 300kwatw I wish, then it starts to become less of at street driven car and more just a weekend car. I just wanted to know what the reliability and drivability of stagea is like at that level and if there can be any problems associated with that kinda power. How many people were acheiving that power in their stageas. Its my number one preferance for a practical car.

What worries me about the 260rs is the possibility of a rb26 rebuild $$$$$$$$, cant drive an auto cause I like to drive, so is got to be manual. Was hoping to get away with importing one myself some of the figures I have seen worked out to be around the 98/99 model $21k for example with around 90k km on it. I would love a 260RS but I dont think the budget will stretch that far maybe A high km 96 model. Dont really have 35k to throw into a car. Around 25k is the limit spend 21k , Should be able to build a rb25 with around 300kw+ for about 6k, In theory anyway. Can do that over 6 months. Chuck a 260RS kit on it and only those who lift the bonnet will know the truth. Spose will also need suspension and rims as well (or better yet one with a little bit of kit already on her when she arrives).

cheers mate All the best with it, and post some pics up when you get the chance.

Cheers mate, Looking soley for a manual one which will be hard to find I know, but looking at the prices people are paying for a conversion it may well be easier and cheaper to buy one with manual from the factory or one converted already. I think it maybe worth the extra $$$ and buy a td06 or 2835 or something similar, thanks for the input

hey dude nice car, can I ask you what you paid 4 it and what compliance is costing u.

Hey guys just wanted to see how many people are making 200kw at 4 wheels. What 1/4 mile times a stagea would run how much it would cost?? I spose its the same as the R33 skyline but particular attention to the clutch. Hiflowed turbo gcg or new tubo $2000 + front mount $700 + filter $100 3in off the trubo $800 + Power fc Series 1 33 gtst and series 2 R34??? twin plate $800 + (or something with bite) Fuel pressure reg $200 Also is the R33 turbo oil or water cooled Are there any achilies heals in the stagea at that power level???? Is that what would get me there, I know sydney kid was gunning for it did he eventually get there or what. I am comming off a cefiro with around 222rwkw so I just wanted to keep a similar power level to what I have with the convience of being able to chuck a surfboard in the back and go.

I posted a topic in the other rwd section but what about the atessa controllers??? I knows the 32 system is a bit more primitive but there has to be some controllers for the 33.

dont know if this could be the answer??? http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/899 or these http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bblist.php?brand=GRID All it must do is inhibit the sensor input so there is no reason why you cant make one of these yourself (if your good with electronics). Cause if there is no input telling it that there is no slipage then the front wont activate yeah????

I like em, they seem a little cheaper than a stagea, how do they take to modifying???? I spose its a similar engine to the 3000gt which they say is a pain to mod???

hey dude could you do me a favour and let me know how it goes as I have the same oil in my 2 way and was going to change the oil over to castrolSAF-XA. Actually its 80w 140 high performance gear oil. supposed to have the friction modifier already in it. buut think I may head up and grab some new oil anyway to see cause some to think of it it doesnt specify if it can be used in mech 2 way

Cheers mate replaced it and it made no difference, think I will have to look at the diff and some of the arm bushes. DOes anyone know how to tighten up an aftermarket diff, think it needs new shims but seeing as though its an aftermarket one will need to contact the Agent for ATS which seems to be non existant in Aus.

I replaced the drive shaft and that did nothing, its either the bushes or the diff. Do you know if you can replace the shims on an aftermarket diff, from the looks of it the spacers/shims are totally different on an aftermarket diff. There is definitly some play in the diff at the moment and it needs tightening up

Havent got it off yet, but have removed the hub to replace it and got the big ass nut off. Can I just unbolt that big nut and where it meets the halfshaft (5 bolt), and will it slide out, or do I need to remove all the suspension etc????

Hey guys I think my passenger side driveshaft is too loose causing exess movement in my rear end, what are my remedies here anyone know what I other car I can use one off. or can I get the uni joits serviced??? Cheapest way possible at the moment.

Yeah dude I lied, R200 diff comes in both bolt formats, apparently the R200 has fins on the backing plate, one way to tell. What I did find when I bought a second hand rear hub from a 300zx was that the turbo hub has a thicker diameter driveshaft and non turbo smaller driveshaft so Was thinking if you upgrade or whatever, make sure that it is has the same driveshaft size.

Hey guys, I have a ATS LSD in my car. I think its 2 way. My prob is that not only does it shudder its jumping around a bit now I dont know if its related to the suspension too much slack in the diff or what. Its only whist turning although you can hear it knock on accel and decell. I changed my oil to redline diff oil and from then it seems to have gone down hill ( have read that some people have gone off redline and reduced the noise by using castrol or motul). Also its not the bushings as I have put in subframe kit. straight line its fine. Anyideas people. cheers

I think you can tell by looking at where the flange thing bolts into the diff, I think the R180 is 5 bolt and the R200 is 6 bolts. (dont quote me on that) but also check ns.com. I have the 180 converted to ATS lsd, and havent had any prob with the drive shafts, from what I know if you change it to the 200 then your drive shfts wont mat up to your hub as it requires larger hole for the spines. double check though but I think thats right. If your drive shaft breaks then just replace it. Cause really if your replacing the whole diff then its really only the casing left, your not going to break that.

what I was thinking about was drilling a home through the rail, big enough for me to be able to grab it with either a spanner or hold it with a screw driver. Will have to check out with a mechanic or someone just so I dont weaken it too much, in saying that there are heaps of hole in it anyway where other bolts have been placed in it.

Nothing seems to be going right for me at the moment. Was replaing the swaybar bushings and and links bushings, Seems that somehow the passenger side bolt where it uses a bolt to go into the chassis rail have broken the nut weld from INSIDE the chassis rail. How the hell do I get it off, then replace it???? I am a little lost on this one.

Hey mate I have just finised doing a GTR convesion on my cefiro, you can get R33 gtst front and rear, or 32 GTR or R32 gtst m (dont think type m had drum handbrake). Also need cable and the drum set up for the handbrake, all you need to do is match the caliper to the rotor. so unfortunalty your mu rotors wont fit anything else. And maybe Brake master cylinder. After doing the conversion I recon its one of the most rewarding, safe and enjoying mods you can do. You may be able to get away with a budget of about $800 for 32 type m and $$$$ go up from there.