cefiro

Car now on carsales.com http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12025D596E30

as title states my much beloved car is for sale, always wanted one of these cars since the time I first saw one. well looked after and a few mods but nothing crazy. if you know anyone looking for ones I recon its priced well $23K http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...ml#entry5124816 Cheers

Nissan Stagea Autech 260rs 1998 model Imported just over 2 years ago as an auction grade 4 car. Have sheet and documents. Still had boost restrictor in when it arrived, 100% original. 91K genuine km with proof. Modifications Steel wheel turbos, new gaskets, washers etc 100k service done Adjust cam gears dialled in by envy Power fc + controller tuned by envy imports Trust cat back exhaust Front pipe Hi flow cat Profec b boost controller Apexi mech boost gauge Endless sss pads New battery few weeks ago Autowatch alarm/imob Series 2 tail lights Clear front and side indicators Just done 5K service Body and interior are in excellent condition 134k km Car made 254awkw on envy dyno Car only run on ultimate or optimax as per usual. Always replaced oil and filter every 5000k with either royal purple or motul 300. Prob a bit more I forgot but buyer will not be disappointed. Call Ben 0438 872 169

Nissan Stagea Autech 260rs 1998 model Imported just over 2 years ago as an auction grade 4 car. Have sheet and documents. Still had boost restrictor in when it arrived, 100% original. 91K genuine km with proof. Modifications Steel wheel turbos, new gaskets, washers etc 100k service done Adjust cam gears dialled in by envy Power fc + controller tuned by envy imports Trust cat back exhaust Front pipe Hi flow cat Profec b boost controller Apexi mech boost gauge Endless sss pads New battery few weeks ago Autowatch alarm/imob Series 2 tail lights Clear front and side indicators Just done 5K service Body and interior are in excellent condition 134k km Car made 254awkw on envy dyno Car only run on ultimate or optimax as per usual. Always replaced oil and filter every 5000k with either royal purple or motul 300. Prob a bit more I forgot but buyer will not be disappointed. Call Ben 0438 872 169

Hey man I think you got to do some research wat power do you want etc then try and find some options, garret are very good but pricey. If I were building a high power engine yeah I would spend big $$$. Me on the other hand just wanted something that got me to the limits of the inject and AFM otherwise its big $$$$ to upgrade those with clutch etc. So anyway I bought some from antimatter on this forum think about $800 each garret wheels and generic housing. they make great power and responce is far better then the std ones. So I am very happy with my choice and would do the same in a second and wouldnt hesitate to use him. With about 1.3 bar I reach very close to the limit of my AFM and inj car made 254awkw. enough for me but could always do with more but with more comes more $$$$. Ok rambled on enough Good luck

Hey I got to get mine out, do I need to remove the whole door skin to get the mirrors off???? Also what dremel piece did you use??????

this is what I picked off and maybe going to go with however they are for a rs4 Front toe = zero Rear toe = -2mm Front camber = 1 degree negative Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough 6deg if poss...lucky to get 5 I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber. Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative What have people been happy with?????

Yeah will try the mothers option if that doesnt work will get the tooth brush out and give it a spin.

As title states my roof rails have a mold like growth on them, I am sure others would have something similar, anyone work out what the best method of getting it off is??? it will scratch off with your finger nail so something abrasive may be good. Anyway thanks for any advise in advance.

got you, can only change correction value, and it wont be much anyway will have a look on the way home now and put it up. cheers Ben

Ok, I think I got it, however if its adding fuel then would it start to run rich most of the time then therefore not potentially running richer AFR etc possibly loose power? At normal running temps my car will not go over 80deg only if its been sitting in traffic and heat soaking. so I may change it to 78 and see what happens.

just wondering if the correction values are right on my car, my car when running at operating temp will only go over 80deg on hot day or leaft to sit in traffic. In my water temp settings the correction value 1.00 is set at 80deg does that mean that the car will only run full power wehn above 80???? hope that make sence

Also the brakes are not brembos and also in mine there are no drink holders in the cen console. Highly doubt its an original Autech

Cheers its dropped over the last few days down to 14.4V or around there. going to take it to auto electrician today/tomorrow and see have seen it into the 15V but seems to settle down. its either the battery or alt regulator anyhow will let you know in case people suffer the same prob. Cheers for the help

had issues with starting my car this morning, just ticked very quickly and looked at the PFC commander and battery said 9.4, cleaned terminals = no diff. Got some people to push start my car and got it home. turned car off and started fine again. I then went for a drive and looked at the voltage 16.6V. turned the car off and looked at the voltage again and it was 14.4V. Anyone got any ideas of whats happening with it. I have never noticed this before. i dont think its ever done this before as now the windscreen wiper are at light speed and the same with the power windows.

Hey mate, I got mine rebuilt with steel wheels using the existing housing, it cost me around $1200 for the two of them much cheaper than buying -5 or -7. It really depends on what you wanna do with the car, I got 254awkw on 18psi before the clutch started slipping, still a good result with a bit more boost would have been close to 300rwkw. At this level and also very close to mine you need new clutch new afm and new injectors, cost you anround the 2k for the clutch, 600 for afm, 600+ for the injectors and will be out of puff on the fuel pump. in the end I decided once you go above the limit of the std equipment it starts tocost you $$$$. I was content with running close to the limit of my equipment so rebuilding the std items with an upgraded spec was a better option if you dont want to chase big power. If done properly the responce should be better than stock. Its not a job you wanna do a couple of times as its costly if you dont do it yourself. Will send you the guy who did mine if you wanna know. Also very happy with mine. Yours are gonna have slightly diff comp wheels and housing on the front as well. Have Fun

I got an Autech, was thinking about getting a rs4 but the power goal I wanted was going to cost more in the end than buying an 260rs. Just think what you want in terms of power and cost. maybe worht getting a 260rs. Easier to build a rb26 up for more power than a 25.

just tried them nup.

I posted up here the other day, no real outcome so I wanted to see if anyone can help me out with a compliance cat for my stagea, need it tomorrow thats wednesday and happy to travel to get it during the day to grab it but not too far, I live on the Northern beaches Sydney. Will shout you a case of beer for your trouble as well. will need it for a couple of days to get through defect notice, this offer is limited to tomorrow. Thanks Ben

hey mate you still able to help me out?????

Yeah I am on the northern beaches, however I maybe heading out to the hills district over the weekend. I can maybe pick it up then. If you send me your ph no I can give you a buz. The problem with an aftermarket cat is that you have to undergo testing and get emissions done too, if I go back to the compliance cat then its just straight through when they do the noise test, from what I understand. Cheers Ben

Yeah sorry in Syd and its a 260rs i would think that the cat will be the same as a rs4 as I have a catback exhaust from an RS4. Cheers

Hey guys I got stung by the DECC, so got to go back stock exhaust which I have although I dont have a compliance cat. Just wondering if someone would be nice enough to lend me one rather than get one made up. Already got a $250 fine so dont feel like throwing anymore money down the toilet. Anyhow appreciate any help. Cheers Ben

Hey Guys I just bled my clutch fluid, clutch is working however the friction point has gone from being close to the top of the release to almost at the bottom which I expected, however now the first half of the pedal feel is very soft, its very soft then it firms up I have bled the junction box then the slave cyl. There is no nipple on the master so i cant bleed that, Have done everything i should have in the bleeding process, did the box first then the slave. pumped clutch couple of times then opened nipple closed nipple then foot off clutch????? is this normal, never had a clutch feel like this.

Hey guys I tried bleeding the clutch fluid but think I have stuffed it anyhow reading back over information it says to bleed the master but my master has no bleed nipple. Anyway i may have got air in the master. have read several techniques on how to get it right and from what I gather pump the peddle crack nipple on the separator pipe... bleed, then do the same on the slave. Correct??????? Cheers