cefiro

Hi I have just put some series 2 taillights onto my stagea and noticed that there was some wire which had connected up both rear lights, Now Before I connected the wire up I found that with the car in reverse the left one lite up and with the drivers lights on the right one lite up. Is that hows its supposed to be???? I ended up connecting it up as it was which means both lights now come on regardless. I also scored some wire cutters which someone left in there. Score.

got a set of these and I am happy, was about $200 http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...g&title=C34

Do you guys have a pic of the Z7 on a car???

I maybe interested in the HKS dumps and the power FC if the price is right???? let me know if your interested, it maybe easier to sell as separates????

Hey guys took the car to the mechanic and all is now good, there was a crimp in the BOV hosing and the line was replaced and its now all good, very happy. Just thought I may as well update so it will be useful for others.

Thats no good at all mate, why dont you list the mods it has so people know what to look out for???? Just a suggestion. Mate I hope you get it back good luck, BASTARDS!!!

Thanks AI, I am just so annoyed and impatient with things, I just want it fixed. I hate driving the car if there is something wrong with it as it just frustrates me. Yeah thats a good point, I have holidays for the next two weeks so it would be nice to get it fixed in the time off. Will let you know. Appreciate the support. Ben

Dropped car off this morning and picked it up this arvo, still having issues but they are trying to get me to replace the AAC unit, they believe it to be a loose spring. I was thinking that yeah maybe possible but then I thought if the car was leaking in air around the TB initially (which it certainly was) And it was idleing nice when it went in, then sealing the TB with gaskets should cause it to drop in idle not raise it. I knew it wouldnt be fixed today. So now tomorrow it needs to go back, I wish I thought a little quicker when I was there to think of this. Now if they refuse to take it apart I am just going to do it myself, now for anyone who has done this. I remove the TB and then paint a circle around the TB on the side closest to the engine, let it dry, cut and open TB and reinstall.

Thanks Geoff, I just came back from the mechanic and its going in again on friday, I told him that hes prob going to need to reseal the TB,s with gasket sealer and he said no worries I actually have some teflon stuff, so I hope all goes well. Now it seems the car is going into saftey mode, not all the time just ocasionally when I am driving which prob mens its knocking or something is playing up?? think I will have to put the restrictor back in the actuator and wait til I get a Power fc. There is no way to get the codes from a 33GTR without a consult cable?? ahh why cant the car run without problems. I was hoping to get some 2860r -7 soon too. Anyone know when the GTR will hit saftey boost??????

260rs stagea, trust power extreme 2, no mods needed bolts straight onto the the 260, was sposed to be for a regular stagea.

that is a good question though how long will the blue sealant last???? if it needs to be done every 20k km or so, I am going to tell them to replace them with new items.

Hey Guys thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Mechanic told me when I picked it up that the inside of the throttle bodies was terrible, and that he used carby cleaner and a brush to remove the gunk/sludge which was about 0.5m thick, yeah sounds like taken the sealing off. I rang nissan and its $1k for a new set of throttle bodies with the linkages as well (not for me but the mechanic to get). Can I ask GTRGeoff what brand your special brand of blue silicone is??? I also ran compressed air through the intake and no leaks anywhere, it also has a slight backfire with closed throttle while decelerating which meas air is getting in.

Yeah true, mechanic recons he needs to change idle via the ecu with his tool, hmmmm anyway thanks for your input mate I will call them next week and see. hope its something simple but these things never are for me. Cheers Ben

Now it seems to be jumping a little, but only just, around the 1400. When I also look at my boost gauge it seems that the vacum is higher than usual too, which would idicate that maybe the throttle body is not sealing??

Hey mate do you have a pic of what your talking about????? also I have noticed that when I turn on the Air con the idle only drops, I always thought it went up????

I spoke to them about it this arvo, he recons that the grey strip around the butterflies (paint) was all good is this what you guys are talking about????? he said he knew about paint around the outside and it was all fine.

What can it be repaired with???? its more than likely whats happened, that means plenum and TB off and again which I doubt they will be happy with. ahhhhh thats such a pain. I just did some reading, is it a Teflon coating????

And also when it starts the car momentarily sits at about 950 then jumps up, I just went and had a look and its not idleing back at 1200rpm.

Well apparently he checked to see if they were sealing before instalation, what is on the TB to seal them????? I hope they are not stuffed, Yesterday it idled at 1200 this morning it was up at about 1600. WTF.

Hey guys I have just picked up my car after having the throttle body gaskets replaced, the car is idleing at 1200 - 1300rpm witht he idle screw all the way in, The TPS looks to be in the right position, what are the settings on WOT and idle. Now the mechanic says he can reset it through the consult port but his machine was not working on my car. What can i do, I have to take it back when he sorts it out, but I think the problem lies elsewhere, car idled at 950 on the button, he saidhe cleaned a heap of crap off the butterflies, what should I test/look for leaks obviously what else??????

I was lucky to have a spin in one over the weekend and I know that Nissan could actually make some money on the grey imports if it offered the conversion of the sat nav, various controls and language to be converted into english, most of which would just be software, easy few thousand they could charge if they could sort it out, but I guarantee you they wont. I would like to say that the R35 was something special, it was amazingly fast and by far the quickest car I have been in. If I had the money the deposit would be laid down already, anyone want to lend me $160k

PM sent

Hey mate check all your hoses and look for leaks in your intercooler piping BOV etc. I found I had a similar problem with the boost (not spluttering though) currently there is a leak from the gasket going into the last of the throttle bodies (to be fixed next week), worth a try. I made a very simple device from here ( http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html ) and blew compressed air into the engine and found it. cost $7 to make and and all you need to do is take off your air box, block one of the hoses from the AFM and place this in the other. (dont need the hosing as on the website just get 65mm PVC end stop fit in nicely)

Done:I went through the tweeters and it turned out really well, I think anyway. Remover Tweeter cover, then get the vac hose through by using a straightened up coat hanger (attached to vac hose) angled to get it into the foot well, then follow with the wires into the same area, and hooked then up to earth and lights. The best way I found to get the vac hose into the engine bay was to poke a hole in the grommet (located just above to the bonnet cable and to the right) by using the coat hanger from the engine bay into under the dash (not visa versa) and then sticky tape the hose onto the coat hanger and pull it into the engine bay. Cut into pressure sender at back on engine and tee in vac hose. I had to cut out the speaker cover and just cut one of the holes which was the perfect size for the vac hose and wires to get through. I hook up vac hose and wires into the gauge and bobs you uncle.

update: the parts from nissan are $3.5 each (wow thought prices would be much worse) so its $21 plus whatever labour its going to be. I think after changing the brake pads today I am happy to pay the $ and just get someone t do it for me.