cefiro

I have std turbos, I know Power Fc don't have R&R it was doing it on my std computer it just wasn't noticeable (cant think of any other reason I was having R&R too coincidental) and sometimes it will have this hesitation and not read any knock ???? i would have thought Yahulz would have picked it up as well but they wouldn't do a power run on very light throttle and its intermittent, and as I said the power fc is not reading knock and showing me on the dash light as I have never seen the engine light come on. Dont have datalogit. yeah i should give him a call but i dont think its got anything to do with his tune its an unrelated problem but he is the man to see. its just miles away from where i live.

I have been having issues with my car going into R&R mode I installed a PFC recently and had it tuned (unigroup), now what I have noticed is two tings my car now has a hesitation/pause, almost light somethings cutting the power this comes every now and again I think its always been there but its only noticeable with the power FC (don't think its in the tune). My knock reading on the power FC will go as high as 112 but the engine light does NOT come on at all. I think this hesitation/pause has always been there, but possibly the tune has made the hesitation more noticeable. Its seems to only do it on light acceleration. And the knock reading wont go above 38 at any other time. I am thinking the fuel pump is on the way out???????? Also the engine light attached to the power fc knock system is set at 60 is there a way to check its on/set at 60. Any suggestions?????

I am really looking forward to the news of the thieves being caught, good luck.

Ahh ok thanks all, alot of trouble for something simple, but its just annoying when its a noisy rattle. thanks guys

Yeah as someone else has said, cars are replaceable and people are not, at least it puts a positive spin on the situation it could have been much worse and count your self lucky. Also the the fact the ass in the stagea is so big I am sure it has great crumple zones . If your offsets on the two rims which survived are then same I would be keen on taking them. Sorry to have to ask and try and benefit on your loss. Thanks

I am wanting to remove the front fascia from the steering wheel, the bit which you depress to work the horn. The reason is its rattling at certain loads and annoying me when I drive so i want to see whats going on an insulate whatever is rattling. Now obviously i have to worry about the airbag and need to disconnect the battery and then will it simply just pull away, or do I need to do remove something else and unbolt things??????

Thanks all for the input, going to do the 100k service in about a week or two and will get either JJR or get some from japan trust ones are about $270 delivered.

Thanks paulr33, The first ones on there are remarkably like one being sold on these forums, which relates back to which ones to get The ones sold on here are $170 and see no visible difference in them and the one on ebay so should I stay clear of the ones being which look similar. Maybe I will just order some from japan

Thanks Nismoid, Sellers on this forum are letting them go for about $170 a pair, spend the extra $20 and get new ones . Thanks mate appreciate the input.

My mods are, Power fc, exhaust from the front pipe back and K&N filter (RB26 engine). Will be putting some garret -7's (or similar) on in about 6 months, or at least some stage in the future. Hmm well if there is no use in getting them then maybe just do without? Its a reasonably easy job when the timing belt is off so just thought it would be a good upgrade to do at this time.

Yes I have searched, I am wondering there are a couple of "cheaper style" ones on these forums being sold and I wanted to know is it worth it in buying these or go for a known brand, I have heard stories of the aluminum on the tips being too soft and wearing too fast anyone had experience with this. I am doing a 100k service soon and would be a worthwhile upgrade. Now I have just put the car in for a power FC tune in a perfect world I spose I should have put them on before the tune, how much difference will it make if I just put the car on the dyno and dial in the gears rather than have them tuned with the ECU. Thanks

Mate sounds like Rich and retard mode, do a search, basically your ecu knows its runing either too much boost or AFM maxing out and retards the timing and maps to safer levels.

pics??????

that sucks mate, what is the final diagnosis???? clutch, gearbox, clutch mater or slave????? I noticed you painted your rims. Looks much better than the standard what color is it and howd you do it??????

what is the code written on the plaque?????

Yeah I have Power fc (not installed yet) but my delema is to get it tuned after turbo install (once) or tune before turbos and install turbos at the end of the year (twice). Trying to get price for inital tune spose $600 then retune after turbos $??????? I will be happy to spend another 2-$300 if retune but if its another $600 then I may as well wait. I thought the stock AFM would handel the power easily I had it on 4wd dyno and 192awkw, AFM must not crap themselves at this power level.

Hey guys I am constantly getting R&R in my car car feels sluggish and wont boost over .6bar, the only mods I have are Exhaust and the boost restrictor removed running around 14psi. It seems to happen infrequently and I cant seem to Identify exactly when its occurring. I don't boot the car around alot and it can happen even when I am cruising hardly using the right foot. I had the car on the dyno and revealed no leaning problems, They also checked codes and no fault codes were found. From my understanding it will run in R&R mode if the AFM max out or if there is knock. Where can I start in identifying my problem as its not occurring on the dyno??? So possibly fuel issue, AFM gone. I have a power fc going in soon hopefully and later a set of -7's. I was thinking about plugging in the FC to see what knock levels I was getting but Am really worried about causing damage and want to get it tuned first. Also I can view the AFM values on hand controller to help too? I would really love to get this sorted before it goes in to get tuned, where should I start?????????????

If you dont have dumps then I think you will find that the HKS dump pipes come with the gaskets you require. Nissan will sell all gaskets you require.

Yeah I need one as well, would be interested in finding out.

Hi guys I had my car serviced a little while ago and in the process of dropping the car off and getting the car home it has been damaged at the rear. Now there are two places where it could have happened either at the mechanic or at the gym car park. I only noticed the damage the next day, so its hard to tell. Now funnily enough, when returning to pick up the car I thought I did notice the dent in the rear but as it was covered in carbon build up I didnt have a close look at it when I walked close to the car. The workshop have cctv footage, but are so slow in getting it to me 5 phone calls and still not in my hand. I am sure its either happened in the shop or on the test drive. Anyone have any words or avenues to pursuit???? I have contacted consumer affairs and they have passed it onto their vehicle division. What ca I do?????

yeah i am stoked with mine, such a practical car. have only got an exhaust on there at the moment but have some garrett -7 on the way and a power fc just sitting here at the moment.

hey mate nice ceffy I miss mine, wish I still had mine as a track beast but the mighty dollar devil keeps excess money away. I think the R34 GTR rims look rubbish Give them to me and I will dispose of them for you....... yuck. jokes

Yeah I have already unplugged it and check which one it is, the front, well I guess will have to get on from kudos motorsport I think or find one somewhere. thanks Ben

Hi I plug in my power fc today, as I got it a few weeks ago and just wanted to test it and also look to see if all my sensors were working etc. Now I didnt drive the car as everyone seems to say dont drive it till its tuned, so I just let it idle and warm up. Now when I looked at the vales for the O2, one was reading 0.8v and the other was reading 0.02 or 0.2 (cant remember) and would not move from that value untill the car was on deceleration where it seemed to respond and jump up. The other seemed to work fine although I dont know what vales should be??? this was just reving the car to about 2500rpm in the driveway the engine coolant temp was up to around 76 degrees so the car was warmed up a little. Is it more than likley that O2 sensor is stuffed and will this affect performance and economy. cheers

Ahh I see cheers for that, think I will just let them both light up in reverse and fog light for when I turn on the drivers lights (which is never) ha thanks Ben