Spurdo

only way really is to take off all the surrounding pipework to uncover them, if they are aftermarket they might have a brand name on the compressor cover, again probably a job for a tuning shop that knows their turbos and could positively identify them as there are some very minute external differences (if any) between a lot of turbos. if they are stock turbos that have been high flowed then it'll be even harder to tell. first thing i'd do is look at the compressor wheel, if its steel then its probably aftermarket. ceramic and it'll definately be stock, the ceramic ones dont like putting up with continued abuse.

hey guys now as title suggests i'd like to know if my blow off valve is push or pull type as i cant seem to find much info on them. im assuming its push type can someone confirm this? recently when i installed a front mount intercooler the bov sounded different. it used to flutter when i changed gear after only making half boost or so. and if i made full boost it would sound normal, no fluttering (full boost is 10psi). once the front mount cooler was on it would flutter slowly even after hitting full boost, i assume this is because the added capacity of my intercooler/piping system has increased and there is more compressed air to expel and the spring is set too soft maybe? the lag also got worse. i used to see 10psi at 2900rpm but after install it was more like 3500rpm and the low end torque had turned to complete rubbish. eventually a light clicked on in my head and i thought i'd wind up the spring in the bov to set it harder. this reduced the lag somewhat and improved the low end torque a bit, still not as good as i'd like. 10psi is now at about ~3200 and the bov sounds normal again after full boost, but no longer flutters on low boost gear changes like it used to.. was the fluttering before at all normal? also i've been told by a guy at nissan to move my bov to after the intercooler. at the moment it sits halfway between the turbo and the intercooler but apparently thats not the way to do it. it was like that when i bought the car and i never looked much into it. im looking to pick some brains here so any help is appreciated

to be honest i think you'll find you just wasted some money. i have the same controller (came with my car) and it took me a long time to even find a manual for it lol, if you'd like a copy just yell, it can be emailed. that controller was replaced several years ago by the spec-II and your chances of finding "spares" for the original are very remote by now. from time to time you might see a complete one on ebay or trademe. oh i just had a look theres 2 or 3 on ebay like this one

you should probably start a new thread for that instead of hi-jacking an existing one

at 20PSI this also no good for a stock engine (it will probably destroy it before long). i would start by finding the vacuum lines that come off the actuator on the turbos, make sure they are connected properly and follow them back looking for a split or a leak. or if someones fitted a boost tap you might find that somewhere along the lines. to reduce the boost pressure you first must find what has increased it. if you cant work it out take it to a workshop (ideally one thats familiar with gtrs) they should be able to work it out pretty quickly. right now you should assume it's stock standard as you dont know any different, so stay off the boost altogether until either a)its fixed. or b)you discover you have a built engine, aftermarket turbos and a tuned ecu.. lol i'd like to think no one is wreckless enough to buy a gtr without asking the question "is it modified?" and get every detail if it is. neglecting this very simple step will result in you opening up a good ol' can of worms. i sort of made this mistake when i was 17 and it cost me dearly but we wont go into that.

r32 bumpers are a piece of cake takes 5 mins or less to pull one off. a few of those plastic screw clips up top then a screw at the very rear on either side where it meets up with the front guard. also a couple of little screws on the underneath at the front corners thats it from memory. sean'o can probably confirm/ this. ryan im having a hard time getting a picture in my head of what you mean, post a photo or something? you'll find you free up a lot of space in that area when you ditch the factory airbox and put a pod filter or something there. when you say "the guy who did the cooler" what do u mean.. did he install an aftermarket?

might be telling you how to suck eggs but were u able to drain it from the bottom bung first?? probably do that. i had the same issue with my rb25 box it was like whoever last changed the box oil put loctite in the bung thread or something. i just had to get a longer steel rod on the end of the nudge bar for more leverage. that was only possible as i had the car up on the hoist though, otherwise theres only so much leverage you can get.

lol they dont go down the same one. there's 2 holes there. one for each pipe, one right beside the other. at the bottom-most part of those pipes that you can see in the picture they run directly down from there straight through two holes and then they bend off to either side of the intercooler directly below. are you converting a non-turbo R32 to turbo or something?

hey this might give you some idea, its how my engine bay looked a few years ago. its obviously missing the factory airbox but that makes the piping a bit more visible anyway. because theres other crap obstructing the view i drew lines along the route of the pipes so u wont mistake them, red is indicating the airflow from turbo to the intercooler and blue for the airflow coming from the intercooler heading towards the intake manifold. is that what your after?

haha yea nz is flooded with so many jap imports it isnt long before they're within the price range of some very low calibre individuals and hence most of them end up in impound or crashed or looking like they should be. its a crying shame really.

ideally you want to get your gearbox rebuilt as you'll have worn out synchros. if thats not on the cards right now then a popular temporary fix for that is get some redline shockproof gear oil. i've heard from many people its excellent at hiding the problem for a while, depending how bad the gearbox is already. http://www.performancelub.com/Redline%20pricelist.htm

ryan, i obtained a pdf of the engine manual and took this screen shot for u. its the same page as the one sean'o posted above but a bit easier to read and make sense of. if you or anyone else wants the manual in pdf just let me know

hey sean'o thanks for that, much appreciated. so it looks like i need that whole black thing that the bottom center screw goes into as well. one more question. what diameter is the piping for the rb26? in the 2wd r32's the piping is 2.5" (63mm) but i found a gtr intercooler and they say the outlets are 80mm (3") which would present another small hurdle for me. are you able to confirm this??

the rb30 will sit about 40mm higher.. see the following link. it shows the difference between rb26 and rb30 in a 32gtr to give you a visual idea of what to expect. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/52458-rb30-engi...ots-pics-5.html as to which engine really depends how much you want to spend and what sort of power do you want to make. the 25 is a good motor but the rb30 will produce significantly more torque across the range. when you go down the rb30 road make sure you well educate yourself on your options e.g how much power do i want to make? what turbo will best accomplish this? what size injectors, fuel pump etc etc.. set yourself some goals and then investigate how to best achieve them. theres an rb30 section on this site, an absolute wealth of information there so make use of it

what sort of braking conditions are you guys referring to the squeaking with? my r32 has been doing this really bad since i've had it. it has slotted rotors and it squeaks only under very light braking, e.g when im rolling up to a red light and slowly coming to a stop thats where i get this horrible loud squeaking it drives me nuts. on two occasions i've had my rotors machined and it stopped the squeaking for about a week then back to normal. my old garage suggested it could be the pads but i've never gone to the trouble of replacing them when apart from the noise they work fine. the pads do seem to produce a lot of brake dust though. if i clean my rims then maybe after like another 2 days theyr filthy again with brake dust.. does that say anything with regards to the quality of the brake pads?

RIPS in nz. specialize in custom fabrication of parts for RB powered vehicles. fantastic stuff and will ship anywhere. http://www.ripsltd.com they also have a sau profile http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RIPS-NZ-m31026.html assuming your in oz (like most on sau) the exchange rate might work in your favour.

hey dude while your at it im after a visual on the same area while u have your bumper off if you can manage it? im looking at putting a gtr intercooler into my gts-t (r32). a) where are the stock intercooler mounts located exactly? b) are they detachable or are they permanently fixed to the frame in the gtr? if possible i would like to use original gtr intercooler mounts with the gtr cooler, so it is positioned just like a factory one. if you could post a picture of the mounts that would be awesome!

a lot of guys here seem to be referring to plugs coming "pre-gapped" to 0.x etc. although i think some (maybe even most) plugs are supposed to come with some kind of factory preset gap, my advice is to NEVER assume the gap is set correctly straight out of the box, and anyone who tells you they are is probably lying. i have replaced many, many plugs over the years in various vehicles i've owned and the gaps are never uniform. ever. i have seen plugs come with no gap at all, and i have seen some with a huge gap that surely no engine would run without major ignition problems. ALWAYS set the gap yourself, never assume it is already done for you. especially in modified engines where it might mean the difference between mis-fire or no mis-fire. it only takes a moment to get right so you'd be silly not to.

i used to have the older toyo T1S's on my skyline and they were fantastic, enormous grip for a street tyre and the T1R's were the replacement which are supposedly even better. this is the first time i've heard a bad word spoken about them. perhaps NISSAN GTR can elaborate on why hes not such a fan??

must have been a pretty epic gap there to create that problem ive known of plenty of rbs with gaps all over the place and still ran ok. lucky it wasnt the coils. not such a big deal anymore anyway as theres a bunch of 3rd party rb coils coming out of china for half the price of oem or splitfires, with 99.99% identical performance

coils probably arent the issue, when coils go they tend to misfire under high load/boost/rpm. your problem could be a number of things. i'd agree with adriano, check the ecu fault code and go from there. if you take it to a garage make sure you take it somewhere thats experienced at specifically diagnosing these types of faults. i've even seen nissan dealerships mis-diagnose this kind of thing.

i have the same gearbox and i personally rebuilt it a few months ago. trust me - if your going to replace one synchro you should replace them all, as well as all bearings in it. never trust a 2nd hand gearbox, you just have no way of knowing what condition its in. sure it could run fine now, but how long will that last? these gearboxes are all getting old now and i would put money on the fact that every one of them has seen a good bit of abuse over the years so i definately wouldnt waste my time with a 2nd hand box, you really are opening a can of worms if you do. to get at the 1st/2nd gear synchros the whole box basically needs to be stripped which is a big job, and since you dont tend to strip your gearbox very often it would be a pretty dumb idea not to do the rest of them while your in there, as they are more than likely not far away from doing the same thing. be warned though, syncro's are expensive. they are likely to cost just as much or perhaps more than the labour charge to do it. over here in nz they were $1160 with trade discount. dont be suprised if you find them around $1000AUD. see the reference picture attached this is of my actual gearbox during the rebuild. it points out where the synchros are in case your unfamiliar with what your up against. they are the bronze coloured rings highlighted by the arrows. if you dont have any experience with gearboxes do NOT attempt it yourself. even for me this thing was a bit of a nightmare

Skyline model = R32 GTS-T Wheel diameter = 17" enkei RPF1 Wheel width = 8.5" front and rear Wheel offset = +30 front and rear Tyre size =215/50/17 front and 225/45/17 rear Modifications to fit = none. and the fronts rubbed the guards quite badly. didnt want to have to modify guards as i've seen other r32s with modified guards and they look terrible, unless converted to genuine GTR guards. so i got rid of these wheels lol

if you have bad compression you either have bad valves or bad rings (possibly a combination of both). more than likely its just the rings getting tired. its probably not worth rebuilding the rb20 when you could upgrade to rb25 for similar money and have a much better engine. plenty more torque and power to be had even with a stock rb25 and they have some very cheap upgrade options for the intake where with rb20 some stuff needs custom fabrication and costs heaps to do so. yea rb30s are good too, all depends how hardcore you want your engine to be, and how much fuel economy your prepared to sacrifice if you drive it regularly