markdem

sounds like somebody has some bare wires behind the dash!

i cant speak for gtr, but my gtsts injectors only open with power applied. you might want to get an oscilloscope hooked up to the loom as the injector might be fine but the loom may be screwed. wouldnt bother sending them to a specialist. its usually cheaper to buy another injector 2nd hand

get a multimeter and confirm that there isnt any power coming from the ecu. people only care about your money and they'll say anything to get it. could you write up a list of things you already checked? theres like a hundred things that can stop a car

i once bent a wastegate open (internal gate) from too much heat/pressure. but thats just my stupid piece of shit.

trying cleaning the AAC valve. it lets a little extra air into the engine at idle/startup. they get dirty and dont work too nicely

you probably ended up sending power INTO the ecu

looking for a super nasty cheap drifter. leaning towards s13 but ill consider a couple other cars as long as its manual. it'll be my 'learner' drifter so im looking for something around $2000 obviously it has to run

rb30 turbo and manifold sold.

take it apart and fiddle with the ribbon attaching to the lcd. could be a dodgey contact

i believe that thingy does the vtec kinda stuff. changing cam timing obviously has a massive effect on the engine. however i dont believe that oil on the wiring would make a difference (think of the solenoids in the tranny)

block n head r in the bin. go fish

possible cam belt slippage?

i had a similar problem. my stagea (r33 s2) occasionally wouldnt accelerate beyond 1500rpm. it was something to do with the fuel conservation mode the car goes into on idle - it was getting stuck in that mode! which was of course limiting fuel delivery and therefore power. i fixed it by bypassing the dropping resistor and making the fuel pump go full pressure all the time

get yourself a nice little - slow but sure - process of elimination going. i'd be looking at: connections (this includes pipes: air leaks) timing fuel systems start simple, then get more technical

i assume you have tried opening passenger doors too? if both doors dont work, remove the unit in the roof and inspect. loose connections are the cause of most problems if everything seems ok, get out the multimeter

i dont want to make you sound stupid but... have you changed the light bulb?

everything is gone except the block and head

you'll probably see me rolling by in my stag, stalking you guys, seeing if its worth dropping in n saying hi. im very poor at socializing and find it extremely awkward

edit. everything is free. will be thrown in the bin in a few days

oh. are you meant to do a comp test on a warm engine? does it really make a difference? ive done it cold all my life

0420 818 470 mark. gold coast. pickup only RB30 turbo with everything you see in the pic. doesnt spin very well $20 RB30 turbo exhaust manifold $20 variable vane turbo to suit transporter 5. would make awesome turbojet project $20

everything listed here is $2 and comes from r32 GTST. 0420 818 470 mark. gold coast. pickup only power steer pump cams + gears hydraulic lifters, full set little blocky thingy that holds exhaust to transmission fuel rail. comes with diaphragm looking thingy AC compressor intake manifold and throttle body plate that goes between engine and tranny dipstick coolant pipe thing harmonic balancer cannon muffler CAS mounting bracket cam belt idler and tensioner plates that mount onto engine and transmission cam covers with oil cap engine mounts cambelt covers accessories belt tensioner viscous fan engine block and head in bits. comes with crank n pistons n shit

i would assume it has something to do with less turbulence. more turbulent airflow probably makes more noise. i think quieter would be better for your engine

you will need the biggest NPN transistor you can find that needs no more than 1V to switch on. NPN's switch on when power is applied unlike PNP which switch off when power is applied. this circuit is only good for testing. you cannot run your car properly with it but it is enough to give a spark on the spark plugs not all transistors are laid out the same way. what i mean is that the EBC (Emitter, Base, Collector) may switch places. eg: BCE also, you can connect the transistors base and collector to any pins 1-6, as long as the base is connected to the ECU side of things and the collector is on the coil side of things. i just happened to use pin number 6 as an example

just a theory, but i wonder if polishing up the glass lense would help?