markdem

sell it as a broken mess. its not worth putting the effort into something that your not going to get your money back on. at least it still runs

if you want to check the ignitor, find a big transistor that can handle a lot of abuse (about $3 from jaycar) and make your own single cylinder ignitor. you can find the schematic online but if you need a hand ill scribble something up. dont spose your on the gold coast?

check compression

+1

sounds dumb but check the battery terminals. they can come loose and make a dodgey connection

check the connection to the AFM. if thats not the problem, check the connections to everything else. mechanics unplug so many things they often forget to put them back. oil going black - normal as for the brown coolant, i think it just wasnt flushed well enough. id only start to worry if i saw traces of oil

take the cam covers off and spray things one-at-a-time with belt anti-squeak stuff. when the noise goes away after spraying it on a certain part, you found your problem

not much you can do besides go back to the guy you bought them from and showing him the difference. good luck dude

ive used an rb25 cas in an rb20. worked fine

i used to be an apprentice mechanic (james frizelles VW ... f**king bastards). we would charge customers for shit they didnt need, like replacing brake fluid every service or unnecessary wheel balancing, batteries, tyres, wipers, anything we could get away with. sure those parts wear out, but im talking about dodgey shit, like replacing brake pads with 6-7mm left on them. all they care about is your money and they will find the easiest way to get it.

hey man i just did the mod. it was easy as - thanks to your instructions! they really helped get the job done quickly and more importantly; correctly! the car still needs more testing as it was an intermittent problem but i think i can already feel a difference in acceleration thanks for your help bru

i had a look over that PDF document. well explained and the diagrams and pics help a lot! awesome job man. and thanks for the help! ill test it out when i get some daylight to work with

yeah man that PDF thingy you made would be awesome! the more info the better i have an s1 stagea with the an s2 engine - same as the r33 s2. cheers bru

sometimes my stagea doesnt want to drive. ill put my foot flat and it'll sputter n pop without any power. ive checked around the engine for things like vac leaks and changed spark plugs. i think it might be something to do with fuel delivery. ive heard of some skylines dropping voltage to the fuel pump on idle to save fuel. perhaps the fuel system gets stuck in 'economy mode'? id like to test the parts on the car that affect how much fuel the car gets. ive already thought about checking manifold pressure sensor and throttle position sensor and obviously rpm. can anybody think of anything else that would affect how much fuel the engine gets? also, where is the fuel pressure sensor and how would i test it?

just used half a can of aerostart on all the pipes and around the turbo n manifold. didnt find anything

only mod is a cat back. the sensor after the cat was cut coz theres nowhere to plug in another sensor. everything else including the bov is stock. i bought the car like that n i thought it would be a simple fix but as usual i was wrong i already cleaned the afm and re-soldered the connections. ill see if i can stop by supercheap tomorrow and pick up a can of aerostart n start looking for leaks

hey guys. got a bit of a problem with my s1 4wd auto stagea. in the lower rev range ( between 1000-2000rpm) it feels like the transmission is trying to decide between gears. now this is just me THINKING what it could be. it might have nothing to do with the transmission at all but i figured id post it here anyways. i checked the fluid level and its within limits but i have no idea when it was last serviced i suck at explaining things so i took a real shit video on my phone. you can see the revs sorta bounce around. it usually goes away when i floor the accelerator but not always

the second link on google search...

could be a vac leak. i still need to test that. already cleaned the aac valve

not getting any more AFM fault codes but the car is far from fixed. still doing the weird stalling thing between 1-2rpm but i went to japanese parts n performance in molendinar and got another AFM just to make sure. same shit happening between 1-2rpm so to answer your question; i THINK it fixed the AFM..... :S

check the temperature sensors

when i lowered my skyline it f**ked up the steering an suspension geometry. the more i turned to steering wheel to the left or right, the more it felt like it didnt want to return to centre

im no expert but ill try give a hand anyways. i'd start taking a look at the coils connections, both the 3-pin connectors and the springy connection to the spark plug. make sure nothing is rusted/bent. if you have a multimeter, you can check the signals from the wires that plug into the coils. the middle connection should be a constant +12V one of the outer connections are a constant ground. and the other outer connection is the trigger. it creates a connection to ground when it wants the coil to fire. hope this helps bro

got this nasty little problem with my stagea stalling/hesitating between 1000-2000rpm. it does it whenever the hell it likes; under load, slow take off, cold or hot. and the dash doesnt display any warning lights, nor does it have any faults in the memory (i check by bridging the 2 connections on the diagnostic port). its also rather difficult to start and sometimes it wont start unless i use the accelerator. i dunno how to explain it any better so i took some shitty low quality video's on my phone rb25det s2 auto s1 stagea only mod is a cat back exhaust. the sensor after the cat has been cut. everything else is stock any info is helpful. i got some pretty basic tools to test shit with like multimeters n shit so if it helps i can get some data for you guys. thanks in advance tho dudes. you guys are always a massive help

thanks dudes. i found the posts on how to fix it. nicely soldered up now