blk94r33

Do it. Check out these two threads, might help you decide: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/249186-nat-power-results-na-t-turbo-conversions-only/ I've done the same thing, and am very happy with the results. Started out with a stock car, did all the suspension work, put in a good stereo which is a bit more of a hobby than anything, and heaps of other little bits and bobs along the way. Started prepping the car for the turbo conversion, decent wide tyres, adjustable bushes for good alignment, coils and plugs, changed all the filters etc. At that stage, it was a good fun car to drive, handled well and a good daily, just low power and a crap sound... Did the conversion, ended up costing me around the $2k mark parts alone as i did all the work myself, apart from the $600 of that being custom intercooler piping to avoid cutting the engine bay at all. Just got the exhaust done, fitted a boost controller (currently set to nothing until I can get the car on a dyno. Currently, the car's even/above par with a mates GTST on 10psi in terms of acceleration, having the turbo spool at 1500rpm, and now 5psi at 2200rpm is very street able. You'll get alot of negative feed-back against this path, yet the only real downside is the 4 stud brakes/wheels, and the gearbox (depending on the car) that will hold you back. Realistically, not alot of GTST's have standard anything anymore, so why not do the basics while on your P's, and the power package later on? No, it's not legal to convert it/drive it without an engineers certificate, yet neither is a GTST with a boost controller, FMIC, loud exhaust etc. etc. WYTSKY DID hit the 295aw/kw mark, then de-tuned for safety, as Aggroman said, 250kw on 14psi, it's not like the engine is limited to any less that a low compression motor, PROVIDED you don't try to make 400hp out of $50, which applies for any performance car... I think i'll shut up now...

Lol, nice plug,,, DE+T, stock ECU and intercooler, for now, 14psi is a bit down the track... Car has become some sort of animal, boost comes in alot harder, 300rpm sooner, and holds all the way through, the VCT is very noticeable. 5psi by 2200rpm is very, "streetable"... Just have to get the car on a dyno, and see what difference dropping the exhaust at the cat makes, if none, then i'll try a 3" dump/front, and then drop the exhaust again and see how things go...

Not %100 if that was sarcasm or not? But if not, cheers. And yes, I'm happy to do my own research, at the risk of someone elses' pride and a few dollars out of my pocket, more than likely, i'll end up with a 3" exhaust at some point, and more than likely, make more power, for now I am keen to see what the 2.5" system can handle, and what happens on a fair/comparative dyno run when it's dropped. If it makes 11ty more killer-wasps, then 3" piping it is, an my exhaust guy gets proven wrong...

Lowest i've seen out of the DE+T is 9.1L/100km. Easy highway driving, with the occasional WOT 3rd/4rd/5th coming into a 100 zone. Fresh plugs, coils, fuel filter, pump, 02 sensor, clean AFM, good oil and good maintenance helps the figure. State of tune helps also. Plugs, coils, ECU and it's relevant sensors (o2, MAF), low fuel pressure, big tyres, poor alignment, carrying excess weight etc. etc. will all affect economy. Driving style will be a MAJOR factor over all others though...

I never said I don't care about the article. I'm posting here as I wanted to know the size of a standard dump/front pipe, and it was the only exhaust thread getting replies...

After searching around here and the net generally, *some* believe that there is a small loss in power across certain RPM with different size exhausts, even on turbo cars... I'll try find links. I am relaxed, "I ain't even mad", I originally said "2.5" is good for 250-300hp" that's more than within my goals, 2.5" will suit and hopefully sound nice without causing problems, asked what size the factory dump/front were, then got molested by the 3" warriors.... And yes, the plan is to dyno the car once the exhaust is done and boost controller on, not only to see what it's making now, but how much can be extracted before detonation or leaning become a problem... As i've said, repeatedly, i'm not fussed if the pipework needs changing after a dyno run, i'm happy to deal with the consequences....

But I didn't ask for any advice, I asked what size the standard GTST dump/front pipes were..... I'm not fussed if I do have to change it either way, as it's not the most expensive part of the project. Whatever happens, i'll deal with it.

Right...... So........ "Hi, is a 2.5" exhaust big enough for standard boost on a 33 GTS+T?" "Nah you need a 3" exhaust" "Um, ok, didn't GTST's come with 2.5" exhausts standard?" "Nah you need a 3.5" exhaust" "I don't understand the point of a 3" exhaust, I only want to run near standard boost, meaning near standard flow INTO the engine, equaling near standard flow OUT of the engine, about ~10psi, a stock GTST exhaust can flow sufficient exhaust gas created by the burning of the air-fuel mix that the engine induces running the flow generated into the engine at 9psi, so surely a mandrel bent 2.5" system with a good cat and mufflers should do the same if not better job, I can't run much more than that anyway being a DE+T" "You'll need an 12" exhaust" "That doesn't make sense to me" According to the experts here, the best option would be to to run a 5" in-case i go to 500kw later? QUOTE: As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.� To get my car to the 250hp mark, it needs alot more than a 3" exhaust. Such as a decent inter-cooler, engine management and probably a clutch, at the very least. I'm not arguing that a larger exhaust on a turbo car is a bad thing, apart from the noise, and to a certain extent the loss of low-mid range power. I understand the principle that you want as much pressure in front of the turbo as practical, and as little as possible behind. I'm not arguing that pressure and flow are un-related, pressure is flow vs. a restriction, currently the car drops 1.5psi towards red-line, primarily, I suspect due to still running the N/A center section of the exhaust, thus, i'm changing it. I want 2.5", for now, as it will suit my current goals and not be excessively loud and attract attention. If it turns out that it is too restrictive, then i'm down $200, go to 3", job done. The mufflers and cat I now have will support this, with the addition of a different dump/front pipe. If not, and it holds 5psi from 2500rpm to red line, then i'll be happy. The guy doing the job makes a living out of building exhausts, doesn't have to advertise due to word-of mouth, and knows his stuff, if he believes that 2.5" is enough as he has convinced me, then i'm happy to give it a go. If i'm proven wrong, then it's my mistake for not listening to the guys with the 4 figure post counts and a list of peak power outputs for certain turbos sitting next to their computer. If anyone has bothered to look at my original post I asked what size the factory dump/front pipes were..... Why does every thread have to turn into a shit-storm.....

Ah, right, now I understand you. Bit too late now, dropped off the car today. The guy doing the exhaust knows his stuff, and recommended 2.5" over 3" based on my intentions with the car, eventual power goal, noise, and his previous experience with turbo cars and the results. He believed a good 2.5" exhaust would flow enough for ~400hp (flywheel) on a turbo car? If it ends up being too restrictive, i'll only be down ~200 to get the piping re-done, as the muffler and cat will be compatible... I did a bit of digging before agreeing to the 2.5" system, there were posts by R31Nismoid (Ash) stating as a rough guide the size vs. power ratio, and it worked out to be roughly 1" per 100 flywheel kw, but f***** if I can find it now... Will find out tomorrow how it goes...

Discussing the 2.5" vs. 3" exhaust in that thread at the moment...

http://www.google.com.au/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=killowatts+to+horsepower -1 killowatt=~1.34 horsepower -So 220kw=295hp -How is 295 more than 350? If a GTST can run 9psi in standard form, how is the standard exhuaust too restrictive?

Using the standard banjo bolts, the hole size/s are alot smaller than the size of the bolt itself, half or there abouts... Either way it's fixed now. New exhaust today. Standard dump and front, Magnaflow 3" cat, high-flow center muffler, 2.5" piping all the way to replace the current varying range that runs down as small as 2 1/4". Very keen to see how it goes afterwards.

Using the standard banjo bolts, the hole size/s are alot smaller than the size of the bolt itself, half or there abouts... Either way it's fixed now. New exhaust today. Standard dump and front, Magnaflow 3" cat, high-flow center muffler, 2.5" piping all the way to replace the current varying range that runs down as small as 2 1/4". Very keen to see how it goes afterwards.

Cheers mate. Searched and bumped a dozen threads looking for this answer! I'm having problems with the car dropping boost after 4000-5000rpm. Given it's only running ~5psi and dropping to ~3.5-4, there has to be a restriction somewhere, and given that a GTST runs 9psi after 4500rpm, I doubted it'd be the dump/front pipes. So 2.5" should be perfect for my needs, and a good step-up over the N/A cat, center pipe and center muffler.

+1 My bad. Definitely crimp the connections, then solder and heat-shrink. The solder is more there to help prevent the connection getting coroded, coming loose, or burning out...

Just what i've been searching for for the last hour and bumping threads..... 2.5" is good for 250-300hp there-about. Which is more than my car can handle anyway. Can anyone tell me the standard 33 GTST dump/front pipe size?

Cheers for the reply. I was keen on 2.5" to keep noise down, but with a *very* long term power goal of around ~220rwkw, didn't know which way to go. Given i'm still running the N/A cat, centre pipe and centre muffler I think even 2.5" would be an improvement. What size is the standard dumo/front pipes on a 33 GTST? (what's currently on the car) As I don't see much point going bigger?

Bump. Interested in this too, new exhaust tomorrow, was originally going for 2.5", but am looking at 3" after some reading. No point going to 3" with the standard dump and front pipes if they're only 2.5"...

Is this true? Is there a direct relationship between power output and exhaust size, in turbo applications? Car's getting a high-flow cat and back including piping tomorrow, excluding the rear muffler which is already 3", should I go to 3" for the piping, or keep it 2.5", keeping in mind it's still using a stock dump and front pipes. Car is a 25DE+T with R34 turbo, doubt i'll be running 9psi any time soon, and given that a standard GTST exhaust can flow that, should a custom 2.5" one do it also? What is the standard piping size of a GTST front-pipe? As I can't measure right now...

+1 Best way to do it is to have someone crank the car (lots of load on the wiring) with fuel pump or injectors disconnected. Anything over 0.1 volts under these conditions can cause trouble later on. And if you're going to, don't buy a "grounding kit" off Ebay. good 8 or 4ga wire, which is available in all kinds of pretty colours, a few eye terminals, solder and heat-shrink, and you can make up some nice looking items for less money and that are the proper length...

Not that i'm aware. Standard banjo bolts, standard oil feed steel line. All fixed now though. I'd say cramming a 5/8" hose onto a 3/4" fitting, then tapping it into a spot with oil already flowing from the head would have caused it...

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1309155794' post='5884797] why would anyone want to own a gun? To shoot other people with guns...... There was a clip in a Roger Moore movie about the founding of America and why everyone is afraid and has guns...

Bit of an update. Car is still/now running great. Had a few issues with blue smoke on cold-ish boost, ie, when the car was sitting and allowed tho oil to cool, it'd burn oil until it got hot again and blow nasty blue clouds. Fitted a catch can, didn't make any difference, but didn't catch anything either which is a good sign. Figured it must be a problem with the turbo (oil in cooler lines), so removed the sump and welded in a dedicated 3/4" return line fitting for the turbos' oil drain, as before it was tapped into the VCT with a 5/8 barb, an now no more smoke! Car currently loses ~1.5 psi over 4000-5000rpm, suspect due to the N/A cat converter and center muffler, so both getting changed with high-flow items and new piping tomorrow. Turbo-tech boost controller arrived in the mail last week, once the exhaust is done, dyno time to see how much it'll take....

Anyone have any success with this?

What's this? You honestly suspect the govt' was interested in doing something pro-active towards road safety, and not just lining their pocket? And now that they aren't raising revenue they're not happy with the scheme...... Shock/horror.....