blk94r33

Brilliant! Again would keep within the tightest budget, and the convenience of D.I.Y lines to put everything exactly where you want it. What model mazda/s had a factory oil cooler with thermostats? I'd imagine all the RX series? Even with the greddy plate, $100 cooler and lines it'd be >$500.....

On the coast, so car's being daily driven in temps anywhere from 2 to 42 degrees. I don't have the stock oil cooler as it's a DE+T. I sort of need one with a thermostat as I do 6-8 10 minute trips a day, but much longer on weekends etc. so it goes from stone cold to hot quite often. %90 of my work is daily driving, but want to get into a few track days and local drags in the near future. (I know it's probably not necessary for drags). I run a valvoline semi-synthetic btw. That's the exact plate i'm looking at and the style i'm leaning towards. The plate can be delivered for $150-$250, decent oil cooler and relocation kits are everywhere for ~$350-$400, and get an extra line made up for maybe $100? Lucky everything's -10 fittings. So for ~$600 could get the lot..... Do you make your own lines or get enzed etc to make them for you? Who would be the best to go to for a ready made line with -10 female fittings?

Hi all, Looking to install an oil cooler kit on my car due to up-coming plans with the car, and it's general dis-like for hot weather. As it's %90 street car, I don't want to fit an oil cooler without a thermostat for obvious reasons, also I don't see how a kit without one is useful for most applications as there's no control over the cooling. Since RB oil filters are a pain to get to, and I'm changing mine every 5,000kms, I also want a relocation kit. I also don't want to spend +$600-$700, as I "think" i could get the HEL kit, and a universal Cooling Pro relocator kit for this price, but am not keen on the idea of multiple sandwich plates and seals (or is this actually a good option?): http://www.skylinesa...-kit-group-buy/ http://justjap.com/s...&cat=299&page=1 What is available, that is direct bolt on to an RB engine, and includes all of the above? Most of the Greddy/Grex etc kits are $1,100+ ie: http://www.nengun.co...location-nissan Some of the permacool kits have everything, but I don't trust rubber hose and clamps with ~100 degree oil at ~100psi: http://www.skylinesa...er-suit-rbsrca/ Next is to buy the Greddy sandwich plate, plus a universal kit, and have an extra -10 line made up to hook it all together, or custom make a kit: http://justjap.com/s...&cat=299&page=1 http://greddy.net.au...&SubCategory=88 (part 12401114) http://www.frsport.c...at_p_12814.html Problem being, I don't know how they fit to the engine, i. if they "spin on" would it clear everything around it? And the lines come out at 90 degrees to the block and I doubt they'd route properly around everything without problems? Opinions/experiences/more options please. EDIT: I now see that the Greddy relocator and thermostat is mounted externally which then passes oil to the cooler, with one sandwich plate to the block feeding it.

Will there be another group buy soon? Or can anyone tell me where to get a similar kit with the thermostat? And are people simply using a relocation kit: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18043&cat=299&page=1 over the top of the HEL adaptor plate?

Both sourced pending pick-up/arrival. Cheers.

PM's replied, turbo heat shield sourced. Still chasing the manifold shield, waiting on replies.

I'v got an RB25DET one, don't know if they're the same though?

Hi all, Chasing a standard R33 GTST exhaust manifold heat shield and turbo heat shield in good condition (no sections cut etc.) PM or post here. Cheers, Josh

Hi Brendan, Interested on getting a kit, just want to confirm, does the Ryco Z145A fit the thread supplied? As Ryco lists it as 3/4-16UNF? http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/product/make/Nissan/model/Patrol+GQ/part/Z145A Cheers, Josh

http://stores.ebay.com.au/eliteelectronicsstore Melbourne based and offering U.S prices on big brand stuff... Hoping to get a new sub and amp off them soon.

Area under the curve....

Flushing tool works superbly, problem is if the car is cold/the thermostat closes while you're flushing causing pressure to build up and blow the tool/air-line/water-line out, so be sure to remove it before-hand. I change mine by draining and re-filling it with water a few times, then adding pre-mix and dropping it again, then topping it up.

Hi Brendan, Do you still stock/able to get these kits? And can you supply a thermostat with "direct fit" fittings for the kit? And a price for that whole package? Cheers, Josh

I used the exact cut-out of the factory shelf carpet, and re-fitted the stock vents and rear-wiper motor cover as in the pic. It's made of 9mm, tight fit but sturdy, you could use something thinner though...

Have you done the proper sensor calibration?

Were the/have you chamfered the edges of the pads? 9/10 times on customers cars I find this fixes the problem..... You have to realize your using high-performance gear, designed to disperse heat easily, take long hard braking repeatedly and do it time after time. Slowing down from 50 on the street for an intersection doesn't get the heat the brakes need to operate well, and quietly. Does the noise go away if you hold the pedal at say 100km/h until the brakes are hot? If you don't believe this is your problem, or have already tried it, have you checked that when you re-fit the pads, the factory shims/pins/anti-rattle gear isn't coming close to the rotor, then interfering under braking?

Jigsaw, MDF, glue, basic hand tools and time. Large piece of thin foam and some screws if you want to secure it to stop it rattling....

Everything gets defected in vic.... So, yes. It deserves to be defected for being hideous anyway....

Remove the standard shelf, take off the carpet cover thing, cut a piece of 9mm MDF to it's exact shape, re-fit the vents etc, glue the carpet to the MDF, voila! Depending on what 6X9's you want to fit will change the required thickness of the spacers. Did mine this exact way and looks exceptional.....

There's another thread around with someone making 444rwkw on a internally stock RB26, bar new OEM rings and bearings? There's also threads of people increasing boost by 2 psi and needing a rebuild....

Search and destroy, if you're good enough, is great for smashing levels. Nearly everything is worth 1000 xp....

+1 Very easy to make with an old spark plug, air line fitting and oxy......

+1 Stock exhaust manifold, stock R34 turbo, DE+T R33 here, and other mods yield a boost threshold of ~1500rpm. 7psi by 2000-2250rpm. Not a power house, but having bulk bottom-end that pulls through to red-line is awesome fun on the street. So 3000-6500 is where it's at....

+1 If you know how headlights work, you know that HID kits were never meant to go into these lights. Put a good quality halogen globe back in. Phillips +30's in mine, same wattage, but good bright nearly white light. And on-coming drivers aren't ending up on someones front lawn......