blk94r33

After "view new content", no more mark all items as read button? Or am I blind?

Intake pipe and crossover sold pending payment/delivery. $350 for subs and amps pick-up only. Want them gone for future plans.

^+1 type "site:skylinesaustralia.com" then space, and what you're searching for into google, and it'll only give you results froms SAU. Works well for finding older threads. The search function can be frustrating, but with a bit of practice it does work. As example: Typing "best, turbo" will net 1000 results, most of it useless to you, as the words best and turbo are in every 2nd thread on here. However, click on advanced search, type in "best, turbo" to the search bar, click search titles only, forums, forced induction, then search. 53 results, at least %90 relevant. Does that help? I failed at the search function when I first joined, but like others say it does work.

If you usually do all your own work, are confident doing so, and know your own capabilities, I think you answer your own question by having to ask if you should do it..... I put my own clutch in, but have been a mechanic for ~6 years, and it's only a RB20 box so alot easier. I think even with the lighter box, I wouldn't have wanted to do it on the ground (had a hoist at work) as it can be tricky to get out and in on your own even with a gearbox jack. Based on the above, get a workshop to fit it. There will be some kind of warranty on their work (ie clutch or gearbox s**** itself due to shoddy workmanship) and they shouldn't be thrashing the car on a brand new clutch anyway. Doesn't the PFC have an adjustment for the rev limiter? Put it below the boost threshold until you get the car back. Don't re-use the old oil, new bearings syncros etc won't like swimming in the old gearboxes shavings.

T04Z is rated to ~800 crank hp. He's making 375 rwhp. Lots of lag and e-peen size, and good potential later on, but sort of backwards for that power. Generally, 300rwkw is considered the safe limit if the vehicle is serviced properly.

Open to reasonable offers on subs and amps...

Changed them a long time ago after hitting a roo and breaking one, will soon be moved to the park lights.....

Try here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/ Loads of information and most of your questions answered. Also, be prepared for everyone to tell you to "just buy a GTST" If your turbo has the oil drain fitted, the oil feed is directly opposite it on the other side, ie. top of the turbo when it's mounted in the engine bay. (provided it's a stocker) There is a bung on the side of the block for the water and oil feed, you know which is which by what runs out when you remove them. The water return and oil return on most NA engines isn't there, bit of info in that^ thread about the returns. Stock BOV in good condition is fine, don't go atmo unless you're running aftermarket engine management. Upgrade your plugs and coils, again read the thread for types, gaps etc. Stock panel filter and airbox will work with a custom pipe from the airbox to the turbo inlet, or get a GTST airbox. Fuel pump will need upgrading, again in the thread. Wide band sensor? For what? Hope that helps.

Also for sale: 2 Pioneer GMD7400M monoblock amplifiers 2 Eclipse SW6010 10" subwoofers Currently in car and can be heard running, one sub has had the surround re-glued to the basket over a year ago, good working order had no issues since. Selling as a package for $400, pick-up or arrange a meeting place etc only. 2 subs and 2 amps as pictured: (sorry for the poor picture)

Rubber, as above. I didn't mean what the bar was made of, I meant the lip.

Yeah I didn't want a carbon fiber/plastic/fiberglass item as I was worried it'd smash the first time it contacted anything, and that alot of them stick out towards the front of the car too much. Been down the bodykit path before, wasn't happy living with it....

Ah ok. Does the job? I'm most likely going to paint the current mesh black. Do you have any trouble with that stuff stretching/tearing when you fit it or after driving? The mesh is good as it's tough enough to take a few rocks/big bugs without being damaged, but can be bent back into shape if a bird or something hits it.

Cheers Terry

Yeah, i'm not a huge fan of the mesh either, but prefer it to the bar reo and metal edges showing up behind it. I would have preferred black, but this is what was available. The "lip" i'm happy with as it's similar to what alot of cars have from factory, except this is rubber not plastic.

Hi all Been slowly fitting a FMIC to my car over the last couple weeks, and realized i'd need to cover up the cooler piping somehow as you could see it below the front bar. Ended up buying this stuff from clark rubber, it's about $25 a meter, and from memory I used ~2 meters and a handful of self tapping screws to fix it to the bar. At some point i'll be putting more of the super-cheap mesh in to hide the cooler and joiners, but am fairly happy with the results: It's about 4mm thick, right angled and made of rubber. Each edge is about 2 inches wide. It's flexible enough to bend around the corner of the bar without distorting it too much, and will flex if i contacted a gutter etc.

RX8 spare wheel sold....

Are you getting 13.8 when you turn the key BEFORE you start it? Pretty sure courier glow plugs are only meant to run at 9 volts..........

Don't know about a RB20DE R33, but i'm fairly sure the 25DE and DET diffs/driveshafts are the same? Few people having trouble with gearboxes on 25DE+T's or high powered RB20DET's, but rarely hear of blown diffs or drive shafts unless it's in BIG power applications.....

The thread doesn't have much of a flow at the moment.

Duty cycle is proportional to air temp, flow, throttle position, engine temperature, whether the car is in open/closed loop etc etc. Do you mean the MAX duty cycle at high/near limiter revs?

Hey mate. My fuel economy hasn't really changed, if you drive the car the same way as you did when it was NA the fuel economy will be the same. If you boost the tits off the car everytime you drive, then fuel economy will follow suit. On the highway, even on a stock ecu, boost and injectors, running 10psi too much fuel pressure due to a dud fuel reg (soon to be replaced) I can get 10L/100km or lower even with people in the car and aircon on.

My bad, I meant that 10 psi on a DE+T with a stock ecu compared to a stock DET. As in ping and engine death etc. The gains, if tuned correctly are more with the same air/fuel/timing as the engine can do more with it due to compression.

Are you sure it's actually burning/damaging them? Or are they not running for long enough? Courier 2.5L TD's had an issue with the coolant temp sensor and control unit for the glow time meaning they'd run for 1/2 second regardless....

It isn't a roadworthy issue as only the heater needs to work to demist the windscreen, thus so many older cars never being fitted with A/C in the first place. If the demister doesn't work without the A/C in a car that had one, then it would be a problem....

No. A non turbo ecu won't be able to deal with the larger injectors, nor have fuel/timing maps for boost. You can run a 30DET with a stock 25DET ecu though to some extent, but why bother building a 30 to run it with a stock ecu?