blk94r33

If you mean bolting all the GTST gear to your stock motor, then yes. So long as you're changing the injectors to 370cc GTST items. This is what mine's currently using for nearly a year now still strong. Just don't expect to be able to wind in 10psi and get the same gains as a 25DET. And if you're going to use a stock untuned ECU, be sure to always run 98 ron fuel.....

You drive a skyline? You'll get fined no matter what. Someone hitting you, gas spewing out..... But on a serious note, no, as it's un-avoidable.... On topic, yes. Get the system de-gassed and start un-bolting! Make sure you use rubber bungs to close off any open pipes that are exposed as crap will get in them and bugger the whole show if you decide to use it again. Also, if you don't run the compressor every now and again, the seals dry out or something and can leak when the system's re-gassed.....

Love this thread and the car, anytime there's a "no replacement for displacement" argument, this is one of the exceptions that everyone bows their heads to..... Good work!

I *think* this is the right one: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16729 Can be had for cheaper though, and alot more options floating around the for sale section on here......

My car runs a 3" dump/front and a custom high-flow 2.5" cat/exhaust. The only difference I could see with the flanges is the distance between the bolt holes and the edge of the pipe, ie. the flange was the same just a different hole in the middle.....

Yes, *almost* any fuel pump that will fit in the wiring/cradle will work, as the pressure for the system is regulated by the reg on the fuel rail. The only exception would be a pump so huge it out-flows the stock reg. Genuine Walbros are cheap, reliable and more than sufficient for your application.

Stock JECS fuel pump sold pending payment/delivery.

Haven't changed the exhaust recently?

Hi all, am clearing out the garage of some unwanted stuff. All items are pick-up preferred from Warrnambool Vic. Can post smaller stuff at buyers expense. Can also deliver or meet buyer half way at buyers expense. PM, post here or text 04 3774 5147 for more information any questions etc. I am unable to post photos at this time as the camera I have takes 4mb+ photos. I can however MMS photos. 1. Assorted EMPTY tool cases for the following Sidchrome 3/8" and 1/2" socket sets, Repco 1/4" socket set, Stanley screwdriver set, EMPTY spanner rolls for Sidchrome ring-open-end, ring, double-open-end spanner sets. >>>>ALL CASES ARE EMPTY<<<<< $20 the lot 2. Nakamachi? CD player, came with car, working condition. $5 3. Exedy clutch kit, good condition, only removed/replaced due to noisy spigot bush and didn't ant to get caught out. Part number on pressure plate is NSC 534. Came out of R33 GTS. $50 4. Stock coils. Suit diagnosing dead miss etc. Out of series 1 R33 GTS $10 5. Stock dump/front pipe suit R33 GTST $10 6. Stock thermofan, removed to fit FMIC, HAS BEEN MODIFIED $10 7. Stock Jecs fuel pump from R33 GTS, unknown condition $5 8. Stock intake/rubber pipe and crossover pipe $10 9. Genuine Mazda RX8 rotary oil and filter suit RX8 $20 10. Speco Meter oil pressure gauge, think it's 2.5", has sender $10 11. Stock Mazda RX8 spare wheel, unused, has leather cover $10 12. Ryobi mitre saw, part number EMS 1221, 1200w, 210mm, braely used, still in box with accessories. Paid $130 $30 13. Stock springs and shocks from R33 GTS $20 the lot 14. Assorted EMPTY Snap-On tool cases, part numbers CTSA561CL, CTSA561, CTA4850, CDRA6850, suits 1/2" electric rattle gun, cordless drill, cordless bit-driver, and 3/8" rattle gun CASES ARE EMPTY $20 the lot 15. Stock swaybars from R33 GTS $20 pair 16. 2 BCT S600 tyres, 205/55/R16, flat spotted, camber wear, suit skids $20 pair Will post photos if I can find a camera that takes a smaller file size. Will also add itmes as I find them.

Who did you get these through mate? And did the buyer end up successfully fitting them to a NA skyline?

And they have an IQ of 85...

But for btjunkie it's game over man, game over.....

icwutudidthere

Drop Zone, you will be forever missed for putting my KDR through the roof with 30-5-5 games. Infection, you are no substitute....

Usually the case, but the fuse *should* trip before this happens. Otherwise: -The connector was dodgey and burnt out -The earth didn't have a good connection and drew excess current and burnt it out -Other fuel system fault causing the pump to work harder Fix the connector, check the above and should be ok.

Lol @ the thermostat comments. A water thermostat is a different story, as it is inline to the top hose and physically blocks flow until it gets up to temperature. Oil thermostat is different, worse case is it diverts all to oil back to the motor without cooling it, or all through the cooler. It doesn't block oil to the engine. Looking at the Greddy item in my hand (awaiting fitting), the cooler is open to oil flow when the thermostat is "open", then diverts full flow to the cooler when the thermostat is fully "closed". So no over or under cooling, no gluggy non-moving oil, and a quick warm-up.

I am trying to understand, genuinely. The engine restriction hasn't changed, the valves/manifolds/throttle body etc still pose the same restriction to the incoming air as they did before. The gains are made by the engine not working as hard to make the same "boost", lower intake temperatures etc?

Not if whatever's controlling the fans is set to slow the bigger one down once airflow reaches a certain point....

How? You can run the biggest turbo you want, if the actuator is only set-up to run 10psi into the inlet system, then the turbo will only FLOW enough air into that restriction to make 10psi. It can't cram 10 times the volume of air into the same engine without increasing the pressure?

So according to this theory, fitting a T04Z to an absolutely standard RB25 and running it at 10psi will yield 800hp because it can flow 11ty cfm?

That's a completely different kettle of fish. Stock turbo will never make 300rwkw due to that much air being way out of it's efficiency range and the exhaust housing would never flow enough etc. etc. If you have an identical size cylinder say 100L, and a 1/8 inch line leading into it, PLEASE explain how a bigger "compressor" will fill that cylinder quicker (increase in flow/volume) at the same INLET PRESSURE with nothing else changed? As above, the gains for a larger turbo are from temperature differences and lower restriction on the exhaust side, as well as the turbo simply being more efficient at processing air in/out.

Better way of putting it. I don't get when someone says 10 psi somehow is different to 10psi. If the volume/restriction INTO the engine hasn't changed, then 10psi is still the same amount of air. I'm not denying that a bigger turbo makes more power, just that it doesn't somehow miraculously change the VOLUME (not factoring in density/temperature) of the air into the engine....

Boost is a measurement of pressure. Pressure is a measurement of flow against restriction. Turbos FLOW air, the pressure is created by the engine restricting that flow. 10psi=10psi. A different turbo at the same "boost" is flowing the same amount of air, provided EVERYTHING else is left the same, ie. cams, valves, ports, manifolds, throttle body, piping, intercooler. People get confused about different turbos making more power on the same boost. It isn't flowing more air into the engine, but is more efficent at using the exhaust flowing out and makes other gains to make more power. If you get a 100kg guy and a 50kg guy to blow up an identical balloon to say 1 psi, they have both put the same amount of air into the balloon. EDIT:http://passionford.com/forum/technical-essay-archives/843-how-a-big-turbo-makes-more-power-for-same-boost.html

Cheers! I knew about the 1/8 item, but there's no mention in any of the ads etc about the -10 fitting (just tried it with one of the others for the lines) I'd imagine so long as the sensor doesn't interfere with oil flow it wouldn't affect it...

Ended up getting a basic cooler kit and the Greddy thermostat and relocator. Quick question, on the picture below, what is the gold-colored bung directly opposite the "from engine" fitting? Could an oil temp gauge be fitted in there with the right adapter? I know the 1/8 NPT on next to it is designed for a gauge. Looking at the plate I have, he bung mentioned goes into the gallery for the oil filter center/return (if that makes sense) before it goes over the thermostat. Is it simply a machining hole etc? http://i2.frsimg.com/images/detailed_images/Greddy_12401114_01b.jpg