blk94r33

Once i'd figured out how to get the power steering to work without the HICAS ECU I saw no point in leaving it in so it now resides in a box with the rest of the stock parts.... As above the non abs and abs hicas ECU's apparently differ so if the hicas acts up it may upset the abs.

A 30 crank in a 25 block would be interesting in terms of keeping the same engine appearance engine number etc, but the cost of machining along with custom rods and pistons would kill the idea quickly.....

Had the same problem, ended up being the spigot. They may have disturbed it or greased the input shaft when refitting the box causing it to temporarily go away....

Or did you mean a RB30 crank in a RB25 block?

I wouldn't recommend helicoiling it as it's a fairly important bolt. I've had a couple pull the threads our after their 2nd or 3rd belt change, that whole piece under the aircon pump unbolts and can be changed with a second hand item.

NA engines are good street cars, low maintenance and not too shabby on fuel, better fun once there's a turbo though......

Mine wasn't for some reason. If I removed the HICAS ECU the steering went heavy and stayed that way, I assume as there was nothing powering the rack valve and it couldn't get pressure.....

Ditch the Ebay tune, drain oil, run at redline, same result, profit $100.....

Sorted now pending payment/delivery. Cheers

That's the only way I can see of doing it, or replacing the whole hing with a strut on it. Can get a photo if it helps?

Hi all, As per topic title chasing a GOOD WORKING ORDER R/H (drivers side) electric window motor and regulator/scissor assembly. Cheers, Josh

With methanol in the mix it will run richer on the same tune....

My car doesn't have ABS, and apparently the HICAS ECU is different between ABS and non ABS models, so i'd assume the pin-outs would be different too. They could be the same, but I know that this particular mod works on this exact model GTS/GTST.....

I think what they're trying to say is, there's already plenty of info on here. Do you mean 500 crank HP or 500 rear wheel HP? Would you be happy with 470 crank HP or 300rwkw? Best resource: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/ 44 pages of RB25 goodness, from 150rwkw to 700rwkw..... And if you search "500 HP RB25" it's the 6th result.......

The kit itself is relatively easy, but the areas you need to access are a pain in the ass and i'm a mechanic by trade which always helps.... A good arvo in the shed with basic tools and experience would be fine.

Can personally vouch for these kits and Brendan's exceptional customer service. Bought a 15 row kit and extra line 8 months ago, fitted that along with a Greddy relocation plate with thermostat, been on the car for 6+ months, no leaks, no problems! I don't have an oil temp gauge, but noticed a solid drop/better maintained coolant temps during hard driving, and my oil pressure doesn't drop as low as it used to on 35 degree days. Will try to get some photos up of my install tonight.

And by this week, i meant a few months. Coolers been on the car and operational for 6+ months now and had no problems. From memory it worked out around the $650 mark delivered for the cooler kit with lines, core and take-off, and the Greddy relocation plate.

Won're be a fan/clutch problem or the overheating would be the other way round. Nearly guarantee a blocked radiator.

Only been on for a week, but done roughly 500km including a few runs at the drags. So far no problems at all, just enjoying my power steering working every time I drive the car!

Before we start, this modification is ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK and is here purely for the benefit of others, I am in no way claiming it to be safe, reliable or a good idea. In brief, my HICAS has given me the s**** ever since i bought the car about three years ago, weekly the light came on due to the aftermarket steering wheel the car came with, I pulled the globe out the dash and this worked for months, then the power steering dropped out intermittently, which I got around by re-wiring the HICAS ECU to reset on key-off, and then finally in the last few weeks I hardly had power steering at all. Why not just fix it? Because everyone seems to have trouble eventually and it keeps happening over and over. If people need I can provide pictures, but the process is relatively simple. I wouldn't recommend doing this if you aren't confident or %100 sure of what you're doing. But this is the cheapest, quickest, most effective fix i've found thus far. After some digging, I found a way to disable HICAS all-together, and keep the power steering functional. This is for R33 Series 1 NON abs, but may suit others 1. Locate the HICAS ECU under the parcel shelf, unplug the big fat connector at the back. 2. Face the connector towards you as if YOU are the HICAS ECU pins, as this is how the diagram below is read. 3. Observe this diagram: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=47736&d=1286623689 courtesy of the Skyline owners forum. Note pins 14 and 5, 14 is 10amp switched power from the ignition, pin 5 is the HICAS ECU signal output to the power steering rack solenoid valve, the ECU uses this wire to give speed proportional power steering. This next part is up to you, but pins 14 and 5 need to be bridged, personally I recommend cutting and soldering the wires directly together then heat-shrinking to avoid any complications. FROM MEMORY ONLY, the wire to pin 14 was green with a black trace, and the wire to pin 5 was pink, these two wires need to be used to avoid powering the solenoid with the key off and draining the battery. This then supplies constant power to the solenoid valve, giving %100 power steering at all speeds (read further down for more information). 4. Leave the HICAS ECU disconnected, as I doubt it will like having 12volt power plumbed back into a signal output, and it's no longer needed anyway. 5. You can now fit a HICAS lock bar without the complication of losing power steering, and disconnect any HICAS related sensors and components with no other side-effects, so long as the wiring from the solenoid valve and switched ignition remains in-tact. I doubt the light will come on, but if it does remove the globe from the dash is the best way around this. 6. Take the car for a drive, but be aware that the steering will be much lighter at high speeds. Be cautious on the first drive as the steering will be much more direct and "twitchier". Will/can this modification damage my car? Honestly, i'm yet to find out. I literally did this mod tonight after weeks of frustration and research. The power steering pump could fail, the solenoid valve may burn out, the 10 amps from the ignition fuse may not be enough to run the solenoid long-term, or any other number of nasty things, but once i've driven the car for a while I will report back here if there are any ill-effects. At the moment the only difference i've noticed on a 10-15 minute test drive is the steering being 15-25% lighter above 80km/h, and also it works on 100% of drives rather than the 10% before. Can I revert back to HICAS? Very easily, simply de-bridge the connection between pins 5 and 14, and re-connect the ECU, things will now go back to normal. Cheers, Josh

Yep, did alot of digging before I fitted anything, everyone I talked to said that the impedance of the SSR is high enough that it shouldn't damage the injector driver, and the relay has a separate power supply so it isn't loading the "positive" side of the injector circuit. Been on the car for about 3 months now, tried it for roughly 10-11 weeks with the stock ecu to make sure it wouldn't damage anything and so far all is well. This relay can run up to 60hz, just above the peak injector frequency at 7000rpm, even at idle with the boost switch bypassed, the pump hums away steadily, and a rev gives good flow and even low duty cycle has good atomisation. Just have to keep running it and see what happens.

Bump

T piece should work so long as the nozzles are positioned in the exact same place each side

With the current pump pressure and nozzle size i'd say around the 200-250cc mark......

Cheers Trent, car is completely different and much more fun to drive! Exactly. ~180 isn't a big number, but the car is phenomenal fun now compared to before with the SAFC holding it back. Good solid usable power and torque from 2500 right up to the limiter. Yes, the difference between the WMI and non WMI is minimal, but the gain at 3500rpm is roughly 10rwkw with minimal adjustment to the tune, after that the maps are the same, just with and without water-meth. In that form boost, torque and power all hold on a tiny bit better up to red-line. Less fuel and more timing would have gotten a better result but the tune would solely rely on the kit working, and I didn't want that even though it was very tempting at the time. As I said before, there isn't a dramatic gain in peak power, but coolant and inlet temps are completely different with minor performance gains, overall it's a better tune that will perform the same on a 30 degree day or a 3 degree night. I don't know of anything else that can give that for $330?