blk94r33

Bump. -16's only -4 stud or multi-fit only Cheers

Nakamichi head unit gone!

I have the remote mount version of the Greddy thermostat and one of Vulture motorsports cooler kits. Flawless thus far. The thermostat can't bypass the oil filter, it only changes the flow of oil through the cooler as it heats/cools. I'm not %100 about the one you're looking at, but on mine there is a spring loaded pressure relief valve that will bypass the oil filter, but only on the condition that NOT bypassing it would stop oil flow to the engine (ie. badly blocked filter). Hope that clears things up.

I'll PM you. Cheers.

Is anyone here good with electronics? Specifically solid state relays?

Bump. $300 subs and amps. Now removed from car.

Bump. Been offered every size and plenty of 5 studs. Need 4 stud 16's please!

MsR sorry for the late reply. $5 should be fine for postage. PM me your address and we'll work it all out.

Forgot about the template sorry. Mods please delete my other post? Model-1994 R33 Series 1 coupe Engine-Stock un-opened engine, ~175,000kms at time of tune Modifications / Parts Used- Stock GTS head, intake manifold and airbox -Stock R33 GTST injectors, rail, exhaust manifold -Anything not mentioned is stock GTS or GTST -Stock R34 GTT turbo ~70,000kms -Hybrid 600X300X76mm front mount intercooler -Custom 2.5" intercooler piping -Custom metal intake from AFM to turbo -JJR 3" dump/front pipe -Custom 2.5" high-flow exhaust, cat and mufflers -Yellowjacket Coil-Packs -NGK Platinum plugs -Walbro GS-341 fuel pump -Oil cooler kit with filter relocator and thermostat -Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator Engine Management Used-Apexi SAFC "blue-screen" with stock GTST ecu Fuel Used-BP Ultimate 98 RON Boost Used-Peak of ~8.5 PSI Misc-No boost controller, just restrictors in the wastegate feed line. -Needs a decent ECU to hold timing properly, will smooth the curve out and make a touch more. -3" exhaust and boost controller may help the 6000-7000 rpm range hold more power. -Car previously made ~140rwkw with basically the stock turbo set-up bolted straight on. Ran this way for a year with no problems. -The dip in the graph at 115-125kph is apparently the ECU changing timing and fuelling for the stock solenoid to raise boost pressure, as the car doesn't have the solenoid it changes the power. -Best part is stock GTS peak power at ~2800rpm, stock GTST peak power at ~4500rpm very responsive and fun to drive. Holds 170+rwkw for a full 2000rpm. Dyno Tune Results-196rwkw@5800rpm Costs-All up for relevant stuff, including turbo conversion and tuning roughly $3000. Labour I do myself. Tuned by Rob at Creatd Motorsports

PCD on the Nismo wheels?

What size wheels?

Bump. Even just a pair would be good. Steel, mags, just have to fit on the back of an N/A R33 2 door..... And be 16"s....

Bump Items 1, 6, 14 free to good home. Item 16 taken.

Good read for anyone interested in a system similar to what i'm trying to build: http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread.php?t=43475

Also interested in this. Slowly figuring out how to make my kit work the way I want, and this was a concern. The solenoid will be run proportional to a fuel injector, same duty cycle and maximum 60hz frequency. Simply put, the engine will complete two revolutions and fire 6 times, for the WMI to inject a %15 mix once. Will this cause problems (even with the stock intake) with cylinder distribution if the nozzle is the usual 80cm before the TB? Or will the manifold, piping and TB send a roughly even amount to each cylinder as the intake valves open in sequence? I have read GTSBOY's comments, can anyone running a single nozzle system confirm that it's relatively safe?

Yep, plan is to use a relay and a boost switch, pump receives 12 volts whenever the car hits boost and stays on until the manifold returns to or below atmospheric pressure. Same 12volt signal would send power to the solid state relay to activate the solenoid.

How about something like this: http://www.jaycarelectronics.co.uk/productView.asp?ID=SY4086 Using the injector earth as a trigger, and also using a diode to protect the relay itself?

Cheers! I was wondering if it would load the driver more, or if the load is only applied to the positive side (ie 12v) as the injectors are earth switched?

Any opinions on this?

More PM's answered, chasing FOUR STUD or MULTIFIT wheels, five stud is no good to me.

SAFC was $160 to the door 2nd hand. I agree with Hanaldo though, do things properly once so when you do get the car up and running well you don't have to fix or replace all the thins that should have been done properly in the first place. If you allow $4000, you'd end up with a good safe reliable car with decent power. I got out of the conversion for cheap as my labor cost was $0 with doing nearly everything myself. Pick 2 from quick, cheap and reliable. If you're willing to spend a little more, and have a good safety margin in tuning and don't chase every last kw, then you'll end up with a good car.

Realistically, the conversion CAN be done for under $2k, but that's literally just bolting the stock turbo gear to your motor, and doing all the work yourself minus the tuning (labour is a massive factor). If you are going to go ahead with this it's worth upgrading the factory stuff like a decent intercooler, exhaust, piggyback computer as a minimum etc to get any real gain out of it, Otherwise you end up with roughly the same power as a stock GTST running higher boost. Also, factor in supporting mods like fuel pump, coil packs, suspension work to actually get the power down, as if this has been done it effectively decreases the cost. My conversion cost me $1100 ish for all the parts, then $600 for custom intercooler piping (to avoid butchering or cutting the engine bay) and intake pipe to mate the stock N/A airbox to the turbo inlet. In bog stock form on 5psi due to boost dropping off because of a crazy rich AFR it made ~140rwkw. Hardly worth the effort. FMIC, new exhaust, FPR, 3" dump/front, oil cooler, heat-shielding, added an SAFC, and a retune (so about another $1500 later) it's now making 196rwkw on 8psi, so ended up costing $3k to get a decent number.

I didn't mean using a fuel injector, a proper WMI solenoid pigybacked either directly into the fuel injector earth wire, or running off a seperate 5th injector style driver. That way (hooked up directly) WMI will be injected at a constant pressure but directly proportional to fuel based on the WMI nozzle size used. A seperate adjustable driver would then allow more or less where it's required.

Opinions on this? And is it possible to power a PWM solenoid with a separate 12volt source and the earth hooked to an injector switching earth? Or would the change damage the injector driver and require a separate driver for the WMI solenoid?