blk94r33

Hey mate. Got the same problem here. Second time i've logged on today, I can see new posts in the forums from my last visit but they don't show up in the "View New Content" button/section. Thought it was just me. And yeah, I checked I had "Forums" selected not the help files or anything like that...

Hi all, If your cutting the whole plastic backing off the garnish,how do you re-attach it to the car? Or do you only cut the section that doesn't have the studs on it?

Lol @ "Hey there's a camera on a tree what's it for" Responses: "Kill it" "Cut it" "Poison it" "Burn it"

If you consider defects interesting there's always plenty of them going around in melbourne? Vic in general...

True And being a hydraulic clutch, there'll always be contact, as the slave cylinder "self adjusts". Another method is to hoist the car and pull the clutch fork (depending on whether it's a push or pull type clutch) away from the diaphgram spring, taking the thrust bearing with it...

Input shaft bearing. When the clutch is disengaged, the input shaft stops turning, stopping the noise. Release the clutch, shaft turns, noise returns.

As above, I doubt the single throttle body is a restriction for a standard N/A. I'd still go with the solid free-flowing intake pipe, but other than that...

Whoops. I was talking R33's, OP's car has drive-by-wire.

That's interesting. Might need to do a bit more research. That's what I meant, the speed limiter is different to the rev limiter, where the engine reaches say 7000rpm, then just cuts out and effectively starts again. While the speed limiter is more like lifting your foot off the throttle, yet it's cable operated. You'd think a fuel cut to sound/act like the rev limiter (lol, it is a fuel cut), yet the speed limiter is more of a wall rather than an on/off/on/off. The car doesn't have any means of restricting air intake, so it's either fuel or ignition adjustment to slow things down? But removing fuel partially would make it run lean?

Modified magnas you mean?

Might want to get the power steering checked properly before you go throwing money at it. HICAS affects the power steering too, ie. when i tried to remove the HICAS ECU the steering was impossible until i refitted it. How long do you have to drive the car for for it to play up? Define "driving hard"? Does it get progressively worse, or just all of a sudden go stiff? HICAS light on dash? What condition is the oil in? Level? Any ECU/HICAS codes? P/steer pressure sensor etc.? Do you only notice it when slow/stationary, or at speed too?

Wouldn't it be a noticeable "bounce" off the limiter if it's a fuel cut? One GTST i've been in (private property), the limiter just stopped the car accelerating quite smoothly, rather than the usual "derp, a, derp, a, derp, a" How does it keep the limiter "smooth"?

Had another quick read through the thread, what is everyone using that allows them to run 9+psi? -Is a PFC/engine management the only solution? -Will the stock ECU handle water meth injection? -Can you up the boost without taking out timing, but avoid knock? -The standard RB25DET SMIC is "meant" to handle up to ~200rwkw, is this not the case with higher compression? Still yet to get my car dyno'ed and the timing/power checked properly, but curious about what lies ahead...

I thought on most models the ECU backed of the timing to the point where the car simply can't accelerate anymore? Wouldn't on/off fuel risk damage?

The road toll has risen more each year as do the new laws and shi* that gets made illegal...... Cruel irony?

Drops compression. at random, on the three rear cylinders? Broken cam? Does it only do it when hot? IE. head gasket fault? That's a very weird problem....

That's the long term plan. At the moment with the timing set to ~12-13, i'm getting consistent 11L/100km on around town tanks! Which is probably a 1-2 L/100km gain over N/A minus the horrible 3500ish rpm rattle. Until I can get the car on a dyno and checked for knock properly, or decent engine management and proper tune, i'll just leave the timing where it is...

It may not have improved fuel economy, but everything else was hampered... How were they comparing fuel economy, constant speed on a dyno? Engine power would be down across the board, and the drivers would compensate on a normal road by applying more throttle to reach their desired usual acceleration... A clogged air filter might not directly influence fuel economy under these conditions, but who's vehicle will be in tip-top near new shape, with just a clogged air filter? Take into account a vehicle that doesn't get it's regular maintenance, worn spark plugs, out 1 degree timing, blocked fuel filter, 5psi down in one tyre, brake caliper with sticky slides, then watch the numbers drop... I'll stick to changing my air filter regularly...

People do read them, thus there's a section for it... Welcome.

If no.1 plug is dry, and the miss doesn't change when you remove the connector to the injector, and the injector is getting pulse AT the connector, you can safely say the injector is dud or blocked. At idle, does th miss go away with a wiff or aerostart?

Anyone else?

You might be in trouble... If you have air, spark and fuel, only really one other option if all the above have been checked properly:compression. Not necessarily a stuffed engine, but maybe a few lifters getting upset? My car will miss if I leave it sitting for a few days then start and idle it... Other options: -Fuel pressure issue causing lean/rich misfire -Timing going out of whack, but this should affect all cylinders -IAC valve or control acting up lowering the idle until the car can't run properly -As above, maybe dud lifters? How did they check spark to all cylinders? In-line spark tester?

Typical tough head bogan SS driver. Takes balls to attack a woman and her 4 month old baby... WTF?

-What cylinders does it drop? -The ECU is still sending injector pulses, is it getting through to the loom? -Are you still getting spark and switching to the coils on all cylinders? -Is it a consistent miss, or does it generally run like ass and you can't really tell? If it comes and goes you're going to be chasing an electrical fault...