Glennno

Here are the images, hopefully you guys can access them. Couldn't figure out how to upload D:

Thanks heaps! Got heaps of those USB printer cables at work.. Would i be right to assume its in the passenger foot well? Had a quick look at Haltech's website. Looks like theres a "Data Logger" and "ECU Manager". Looks like ECU manager is the one i want, i'll just be careful not to play with any variables! I've definitely got a better feeling of my issues. Starting issue is basically a cold start only issue or, not fully warm start issue. If i try to give it revs, more times than not, it coughs and doesnt take to the accelerator well. If i piss it off while trying to start it, it will turn over a LOT before finally starting. On a 100% warm start, its fine. If i drive a km or two after a cold start and try start the car a few minutes later, it has some of the cold start funny-ness but is generally fine. So, the warmer it is, the easier to start. With my issue and driving, i think ive also narrowed that down a bit. It seems to be less than 1500rpm and it gets a little hit and miss, sort of like a flat spot. Sometimes it will cough once but not enough for it to really be noticeable. If i drive at 60KPH in 4th, i get the touchy issue i was talking about. If im in 3rd at 60 (Where the revs are higher) its mostly all fine. Biggest thing i can put it down to, this car doesnt like going slow! It also turns out my power output was incorrect. Instead of making the 341HP at 17.5 PSI, it actually got retuned later to make 360HP at 16PSI. I will try to figure out how to upload pictures and will upload some photos i took of the receipts that the previous owner had. And by the way, car had a new NGK NTK O2 OZA395-E2 lambda sensor put in, in 2012. I assume this is a narrowband O2? I also read on the documents that i will try to upload: "Tune map to get fuel 11.5:1 at full boost". <-- Is this good? "Knock control on, temp compensations all on and set, transient throttle reset and much better. Cold start fixed with much more fuel added on start up and post start" <-- Now, Is the knock control and temp compensations a good thing? Are they for safety of the motor? Looks like the car may have had cold start issues to begin with. I wonder if the added fuel is chocking the car?

Is it just a USB to serial cable? Where would i find the connection to the Haltech to plug in? Computers are my thing so, i would be confident plugging a laptop in to see if i can view real time information. Good to know that the O2 may not be plugged in, may be original or may be a wideband. Didnt check if it was plugged in Just saw it was physically there!

Thanks, that seems like great advice. Might be heading up in a couple months so, will get it sorted then.

Thanks, so its more likely to be the throttle pump map or something to do with the Haltech as to the starting issues? I have a feeling i saw in a receipt somewhere that the O2 was replaced. Might be worth checking what it was replaced with and re-reading the receipts. There is definitely an O2 sensor in the dump, i remember seeing it when looking at the car in Perth before i bought it! Just, not sure if its genuine Nissan or if its narrow or wideband. Will check the receipts. It might not be that at all because when i do have the accelerator down enough for normal increrase in acceleration, its perfectly fine, even maintaining the speed, its fine its just really really touchy if i come off of the accelerator pedal 100% and then come back a small amount

Just doing some research - Am i right to believe that the cars come standard with a narrow band O2? or do they not come with an O2 at all? Just read on the Haltech website the difference between narrow band and wide band. Not entirely sure how this affects start up and the car running on very low accelerator but, im sure it does!

Thanks, this seems like something that is probably going to be better for a tuning workshop to setup for me! Most of that went over my head im affraid!

Thanks for the clarification! Would it be wise to take the car to my tuner of choice and get them to play around with the throttle pump table? All the work was done by one of the biggest tuners in WA so i am a little upset they didnt spend a little extra time on it. (Although, this was in 2012). Could it perhaps be the pump itself was really hard to tune into the Haltech? I believe it is a VDO 260LPH or 270LPH.. Never head of VDO myself. Back in my S14 days, it was Bosch or Walbro. I wonder if the poorly defined throttle pump table could always be causing my starting issues? Its sort of like its not getting the 100% correct amount of fuel on start up but within a couple of seconds, shes all fine and happy to idle.

Thanks! The more the merrier Appreciate the replies! Might checkout that valve.. remember seeing something about SR20's and that valve name... I dont think it would be as its only start up, but will do a little research on that topic and see what symptoms are. Im wondering if its maybe just got something to do with fuel on start up with the Haltech ECU. I remember going through the tuning receipts from the WA workshop and remember reading something about tuning issues on start up. Looks like 4 years ago all cylinders got 160 on a compression test. Not sure if this is good or not but assume its better than 0 Might just leave it on the high boost setting then and use my right foot. i guess low boost mode can be good for if anyone else is driving? Looks like all i need to do on the controller is turn a dial to further increase or reduce boost. (Within actuator and turbo hardware spec of course).

Thanks, i guess i would feel better setting it to 17PSI and leaving it there if i was sure that it's relatively safe for me to use that sort of power on a regular basis? The last thing i want to do is pop a motor or be up for a head-off job. (I know it depends on the tune) but, if it IS tuned right and my power / boost level is very safe, then i will leave it just on the high boost setting. If you come back and say that i might want to be careful using that sort of boost on a regular occurrence then i will continue to switch the boost levels. Chances are if my right foot has access to the power, im going to use it. Im only a man at the end of the day and we men tend to use what we have. Thanks for the heads up on the gauge. Might perhaps look into getting a dual pillar gauge holder or something. Might be cool to have boost and oil pressure for safety. Hmm thanks. Might have to do some Haltech research. Might even need to have a chat to a tuner! I'd feel safer using the cars potential knowing that the ECU "can" help in some scenarios.

Hi All, Just got my first R33 on the weekend and drove it back from Perth to Albany. (400KM trip at 110KPH). The drive went very well and i am very happy with how it drives and rolls on with power. Car: 1997 S2 R33 Manual GTST -Haltech Platinum Pro -GT3071R at 17PSI with Profec B Spec II on high boost -Nismo 555cc -All supporting mods 1. I was told low boost is 7PSI and high boost is 17PSI. (Dyno sheet shows it hits 17.5PSI and then slowly drops over the rev range) - Is 7PSi actually achievable by the Profec B Spec II or is it likely to be the boost pressure of the actuator? (No boost gauge as of yet, havent figured out how to change KPA to PSI on the Profec, but its hidden under the steering column so couldnt see it anyway). 2. Is this a safe boost? Please note, i wont be drifting but if it is safe, would like to be able to use that power from time to time without being worried of blowing a head gasket or blowing a motor. 3. The car on start up will rev to 1100RPM, then down to about 300 and then sometimes stall and sometimes kick back up to 1100RPM and then stabilise. If it keeps running, it will always stabilise and will then be fine. Pull up to a stop, it will always be perfect. When it goes to 300, if i give it a little rev, it will then just act normal and stabilise again and wont stall. Is this likely tuning of the Haltech? Once the car has stabilised which happens very quickly, it is then 100% fine for the rest of the drive. 4. It feels like when i come off the accelerator fully and then come back onto the accelerator, it is very touchy and jumpy if im only every so slightly hitting the accelerator. When im travelling at a set speed, my foot seems to be in that area of regularly coming on and off the accelerator so, it sounds like im a young kid bunny hopping my first car. It goes from normal running noise to very quiet, to normal running noise to quiet and feels a bit funny. if i go a little further on the accelerator, its perfectly fine and i start increasing speed. Could this maybe be slack on the accelerator cable? Tuning? Something to just get used to? 5. Oil pressure - I've never had an oil pressure gauge but this dash has the standard oil pressure so im trying to better understand it. Is it very accurate? It seems to sit on number 6 (which is 2 above half and 2 below full) on a cold start and then as it warms up, it gets closer to 4 and will then sit ever so slightly under 4 when warm. Am i right to believe that the number 8 (max it can go) is bad and the lowest it can go is horrible? 6. If there is any sort of issue with the motor that occurs, is the Haltech smart enough to cut power or do something to prevent damage? my dash has the HICAS light taken out and im worried that perhaps any form or engine light may or may not be in working condition. Would hate to go out for a drive and the Haltech not protect the motor should something happen. Thanks all. All in all, loving this car. So much nicer than my 3 tonne 3L diesel patrol and its a blast to drive!

How did you get on with this?

Looks like not a whole lot has changed then.. Our 2008 V6 Accord's gearbox is considered to be "too small" and should be looked after carefully.

Great.. totally makes me think im going to get a lemon.. Thanks guys!

Ah cool... How often are these cars wound back? Got my eye on a few online.. One of which is the one with the 750cc injectors. Another, is one that had a motor failure pretty early on and had a motor supplied and installed by a Perth importer. Likely for the KM's on that motor to have been given to the customer incorrectly when he bought the motor? I'll definitely have my eyes open when looking thats for sure... Dont want to end up with a heap of crap.

Im sorry... did you just say the motor has 360,000km on it? Does that mean im worrying about nothing when im looking at 150 - 170,000km models?

If my patrol wasnt already a diesel and i actually had money to burn, RB30 on E85 sounds great! Somehow i think the Skyline idea will be cheaper.

Wow thats crazy! They must have improved the V6 motor perhaps? I dont know a lot about the Honda timeline and their models, only ours. Its a 2008 3.5L V6. 202KW with paddleshift and it shuts off 3 of the cylinders when youre not using much power to try save fuel. Seems pretty good on fuel and it is actually pretty quick for a RWD but.. I miss my turbo's and man oh man, the 3L 3 tonne patrol is slow!

Thanks everyone and Ben from the internet! WIll let her know that Ben from the internet said that all will be well In reference to the 250km to the full tank daily driven, what size is the fuel tank? Know roughly how much you used? That's a little scary but.. The plan is to sell our $30k patrol for the or a $10k skyline so.. Fuel usage a little high might not be the end of the world. We do have a V6 Accord that will happily run off of 10L per 100 around town and 7L per 100 on the highway so, that can be the "fuel efficient" car if need be!

Yeah, i understand the "if you buy a fast car, expect high fuel usage" but.. just trying to get a rough guide so i can get the misses on board. Happy wife, happy life.

Thanks. Was talking to a tuner at a Jap workshop in WA and was told to expect around 20L but.. that might be with heavier right foot perhaps? I'd be pretty happy with 15L but, i wouldnt want to buy this car in particular, only to have to get smaller injectors and re-tune to try to get somewhat-sane fuel economy haha

Hi, Looking at buying an R33 and there are a few nice examples around.. Trying to gauge on what fuel economy will be.. Looking at an R33 2 door, has a bigger turbo, Adaptronic ECU, 750cc injectors and a few other things.. Its my understanding that 750cc is quite high on these motors for 300HP... Is it going to be using 20L per 100km combined? That might be a deal breaker and i may have to look for a more stock example if the fuel usage is going to be fairly high. Thanks, Glen (Post your mods and economy)

how much for AFM?

ah okay i had a quick research and they seemed pretty similar might be interested in the afm for sale soon if no one's bought it by then

is the s1 AFM any different to the S2 AFM? sorry im a silvia boy