riceline

hey guys (I'm not a mechanic just a backyard enthusiast) Fixed it today. Things you will need. Flat blade screwdriver Phillips Screwdriver (small tom thumb style) 1M of Fuel line 2 Clamps 1 roll of electricians tape Rag to clean up any spills My pipe was split so I didn’t have to drain the line beforehand. Because of this it had little to no pressure in it. IF you do. 1:To do this just pull the fuse for the fuel pump from the rear fuse bay. 2: crank over engine. It will try to start (possibly rev to 300 rpm) do this twice 3:/1A Disconnect the negative line from the battery Fuel and sparks don’t mix If you don' just go from here. First thing to do is get the car up off the ground. As you will be laying on it for a bit. I used car ramps that I have. 1: Remove the metal cover over the top of the fuel tank access area. 2: Undo the clamp from around the fuel pipe in question and remove the clamp 3: Pull the pipe off the nipple. This can be a little tight. But just take your time. 4: Get your length of new fuel line. Tape this to your old fuel line with the electricians tape. 5: Now onto the ground you go. Goto the Drivers side under the rear wheel. 6: If you look along the undercarriage of the car you will see (in my case) 4 metal lines running from the front of the car to the back. The middle 2 are the fuel lines. The outer 2 are the break lines. Follow them back to where the Rubber pipe from the fuel tank connects to these metal lines. 7: The bottom one is the line TO the engine. Top is line from the engine. Pull through the line that you are replacing. Just till the new line comes through as well. This will also bring through the new line with it. Since it is attached. 8: Go back up to the top of the fuel tank. Attach and clamp the top part of the fuel line. Really force it on hard so that it goes all the way over the nipple. 9: use the tom thumb screwdriver to undo the line underneath the car. The use the Flatblade to help you remove the old fuel line. There may still be fuel in this so watch out. Unwrap the new fuel line and remove the old one from the car. 10: Test fit the new line. Cut it so that it leaves enough room for it to fit snugly but NOT tight or loose. 11: Attach the new fuel line to the exposed nipple and clamp just like was done with the same line above the fuel tank. 12: Re attach the battery line. Turn key to ON (don't START!) this will fill the new line with fuel and give you the chance to check out the new line you have just put in for any leaks. 13: Once inspected and happy with outcome (no leaks). Start car and take for a drive around the block. 14: Once back. Turn car off and check out the lines just to make sure that everything is all good. 15: Re attach metal cover above fuel tank and your all good to go

Hey ppl. on the way home from work today I noticed a unusual fuel smell. Thaught nothing really of it. Got home and noticed that it was coming from the back of the car. Got out the old tool kit and pulled off the backing plate for access to the fuel tank. To find. The fuel line out (one to the engine) has a small split/hole in it. Just after advice on how to replace/repair this as quick as possible. Its back far enouhg to be a pain so I can't just cut the pipe and reconect it. A very fiddily option would be to cut the pipe and attach another bit with a connection. But how hard/messy is it to replace the pipe? Thanks guys

oil breather tank is in the bottom right of the top picture

Personal Lown (not a car lown) under Commonwealth. Got it 3 years ago when I was 18. Have had the lown extended since and no problems

A highflow 25 should be enough for a descent kick in the pants. What do you have to modify to get the rb into the Z? friend of mine has a 260Z that we were talking about droping an RB into. Probaly a RB25/30 though.

How much for all of the item's Delivered? Thanks

hey mate I picked up a blowen R33 S2 turbo for $100 Have seen a few places that sell the rear housing for about $100-150 The highflow job with the 360deg thrust bearing is costing aprox $1300 After all of this I will still have my current RB25 turbo to bolt onto my mates R32. So that will bring the cost down a little

Cubes: That's the hope a skanky little 250rwkw (or more if possible ) I was recommended the 360 deg thrust bearing setup as it should make more reliable power. That's really why I am/was going with it. The other option was a 270 deg thrust bearing that would be cutting down the life of the turbo and the power. I will ask about getting it BB set up as well. Thanks for the advice roy.

Disco: - I am getting the Rb25 turbo highflowed - that means 360degree thrust bearing. new seals - steel wheels - bored out etc etc. I want to put the VG30 exhaust housing on the turbo to give it even more go again. Abused: Most of the reasons as above. I want it to go straight onto the car with minimal fuss. I'm not interested in a stupidly big turbo that takes ages to spool. This is my daily driver. I drive it to work and back home. Some weekends me and my girlfriend go away in it. Every now and then it will be off to the drags/track. Thats about it. The fact that it looks 100% stock as well. The truth is a Std high flow puts out 450hp. Hopefully just putting this extra bit on gives 470-520 hp (hope/guess) that is more than enough with my other mods for the streets. Thanks guys please keep the info coming

Hey all. I have purchased a RB25 S2 turbo that I am going to have highflowed along with a 360 Deg Thrust bearing put in. This will be going onto my RB31DET. My question is. I know that people put the VG30 exhaust housing on the RB25 turbo for a performance increase. Would it be worthwile/feesable for me to put a VG30 exhaust housing on the 25 turbo before it is highflowed? In my head it seems like an easy way to get just a Little more power out of it. While possibly giving it a little more punch from the 3L bottom end. I know that this type of set up may cause surging and be a little laggy on a 2.5L but I think it should be fine on a 3L. Thanks guys

Will this bolt onto Std R33 S1 exhaust manifold? if so very interested

Don't have a bonnet sorry I do have a RB30 radiator that is bigger than the r33 radiator

Hey guys few responces BigCarl : No sorry mate - not as of yet still have to get my new ones. will put them up when i have my new ones in though Bobjones: Sorry mate Sold Daler32: don't think it will mate. But i will see what I can find out Luke33gtst: don't have one sorry mate Thanks guys

hey mate. The test that you are talking about was in ZOOM. They found that using the STD plenum was much better than swapping to the GTR plenum. After work ill see if i can find the issue and type some of it up.

- R33 GTST TEINS (CompleteSet)(Height adjustable, no leaks) = $700.00 is that all 4 bolt into my R33 have set up and drive away? and these are completly adjustable unlike the ones with the locked hight rings?

Hey mate. Just curious as to why you say the High Flow's are only 300hp when GCG and a few other places all quote there turbos at 450hp? Just did a bit of a serch and a lot of people are getting 230-250rwkw's out of there high flows... Sydney Kid being the exception with 264kw Also Does it matter if I get a R32 turbo highflowed instead of a R33 one (if cost is a huge difference between the two)? as I will be buying a 2nd hand turbo and getting that done so I can bolt it on when I have all of my parts ready to go. I am looking to upgrade the turbo in the next month or so. Just waiting on the bank balance to rise just a touch more. Thanks mate

anybody?

hey guys Have done a bit of a serch about these. Most people seem to rate them fairly well. So I have got one... Only thing is I don't have the manual for it. Would anybody happen to know where I may be able to get this? or better yet have one? Thanks guys

I used your guide to do a GTR pump replacement today. I agree with you FULLY that geting that cradle to line back up is the BIGGEST pain in the ass! Other than that It really is a mind over matter difficulty rating! Thanks for the guide was VERY helpfull eaven though it was a GTR pump and not a Bosch.

i have a Excedy Sport Tuff that i got from Shift Performance that was not to far out of that price range.. Very nice clutch!

MMmmmm VERY impressed with this game.. Pre ordred it a while ago. Was there at 9AM to pick it up and have only just got off it. (need to get a Memory Card) I can see this game causing arguments with my girlfriend... she will want to watch tv but I will have other ideas!

Have been told that Just a High Flow should be good enough for what I want. But am more than keen to find out what you would recomend. How much horsepower/kilowatts do you want? 250-280KW What are you using the car for? Street/Daily Driver When do you want boost roughly? 2200 will be fine Do you want power early or late in the rev range? Good range of torque and power What Mods you engine has or is going to have including computers or exhaust etc.? (Currently on car) RB31DET - Port and polished head - 3inch double dump turbo back exhaust - Excedy "sport tuff" Clutch - Turbosmart type 2 bov - pod filter - nismo thermostat (Still on bedroom floor) GTR FMIC - Power FC - Sard Trigger EBC - GTR Fuel pump - considering HKS exhaust cam gear & Z32 AFM What car? R33 GTS-T Intercooled? GTR Cooler Still running AFM or upgraded or no longer there? STD AFM Custom exhaust manifold or standard? STD External wastegate or internal(limited to virtually 450hp)? Internal Thanks mate

make sure that your boost lines are hooked up corectly. If these are not hooked up properly than you will be running massive boost and getting the boost cut.

daily driving 450 - 500 km giving it a bit 350 - 400 daily driving with aircon 400-450

anyone?