Whoneedstherapy

I've got one... it'll finally graduate from being flintstone powered in a week or two as well

Thanks Sydneykid, at the moment i'll see how the stock box goes and other than that i'm looking very closely at an OS Giken cross gear set. I'm going to try and keep it as street friendly as possible, so if i can avoid the 20K bill for a hollinger i will. Also being primarily a street car, spending maybe 5% or less of the time on a track of some sort i want to see if i can stay as close to a stock box as possible, so an OS gear set sounds like a great idea to me.

Hey jordan, i was just wondering what gearbox you are going to run behind this monster of yours? I'm also building an rb30/rb26 combo, although only with a T78-33D, but i've been told that the extra torque from the 3L is going to kill the stock box, and after talking to a few others apparently trust and hks 6 speeds don't like the extra torque as well. Have you decided on a box yet or are you still looking into it??? any insight would be great, thanks mate! Cheers Luke

Blitz... I think you'll find it IS an original nismo kit. Good luck with the sale swoop, i've seen it in the flesh a few times and it IS worth way more!

busky, an ebc should stop it. I know the blitz dsbc's are great at stopping spiking as i had them on my two previous rides. The other handy thing is you can set a boost limit which it wont pass, you can also set how much it will reduce the boost by. EG you want to limit it to 1bar, you can set it so it will spike to 1.1 bar and then drop it back to 1 bar etc, or you can set it to hit that limit and hold it rock steady. Definately worth the extra $$$ in my opinion

that loss would be because the engine would be driving the said components 100% of the time though, unlike gtr's which dont put power through the front wheels, and im assuming the front half of the drivetrain until there is a detected loss in traction. Therefore why would a 4wd like drivetrain loss be encountered if there was no loss in traction hence forth no power put through the front half of the drivetrain?

i highly doubt you'd lose 50%-60% through the dyno, though i was kidding when i said just a tad, it should have a fair bit over 500hp that said, as for R32 gtr's which when they have traction dont put any power to the front wheels, do they record a measurably loss when running with the atessa system on? has anyone actually done back to back runs, with and without atessa?

merli, it wouldn't be like your 600kw@wheels dyno sheet would it?? im sure we'd all love to see it make those figures again and again and run the times it should with 2530's and that much power, but that would be the question as to why HKS would rate that turbo kit for 600ps (447kw) @ the engine instead of the 850ish that it'd apparently be good for. Either those are 2835's and not 2530's, or thats just broken a few BS metre's

350kw is 469.3hp 305kw is 409hp suffice to say your gtr should have just a tad over 500hp at the crank It'll be great to see what times you can crack, i'll be running a similar setup when and if the bloody thing every gets here, except i'll have a little more displacement behind it. Would be good to see the difference in power curves and times.

merli, do you know whether any other GT-RS's actually get the anti surge compressor cover, as i've only seen them on GT-RS's in kit form for the rb26 and not in single form.

What are good alternatives to the standard box for a 10 second gtr?? are you better off with something like an OS giken cross gear set or is it better off the just save the pennies and go straight for a dog box?

i guess it would depend on the big single merli IE apexi AX82 big single - more lag HKS T51 R SPL - less lag

doughboy: i'm pretty sure in kit for for an RB26 they rate them at around 700ps, similar to the 2540 & the trust T618Z

The .82 exhaust is quite laggy on an SR20 unless your getting some big cams in your built motor. Sure you will be able to run big boost through that exhaust housing but the response just wont be there, it'll be a big difference from your 400hp gt28 which are a very nice turbo for an SR Personally i'd at least start off with the .63 exhaust housing and see how it goes. I've seen one on a mates stockish SR and it was a good thing, little bit laggier than a 400hp GT28 but it bite a little harder when it hits boost as well.

yeah they definately do thicker coolers, walk into advan sometime and check them out, they always have at least 1 in stock of the bot 115mm and the 149mm. Also Kier wilson's 8 second R32 runs the 149mm trust cooler. ronin: go for a hard drive and pull up somewhere, jump out and give the piping coming into and out of the cooler a quick feel. That will let you know roughly how it's coping on the cooling side of things, but you should be fine. I had one of these on my old soarer and it was making 600hp or so at the engine so you'll have to do alot of work to max it out

the drag cooler's for the GTR are a bit thicker than that if i recall correctly. They also come as a 600x300x115 and a 600x300x149

come on donnie... 3L 6K isn't a small amount of cash, but at least you know if it's built right and tuned right you can through all and sundry at it and it'll hold together

if someone wants to lend me a set in 3 weeks you can test it on a 3L with big cams it doesn't suprise me they feel a bit big for an RB26. When compared to a 2530 and a 2540 they are alot closer to the 2540 in terms of outright response than the 2530. Even on an SR20 they behave alot closer to the 2540 than the 2530. steve as for your theory about the exhaust housings, im pretty sure HKS dont make the GT-RS with many differently sized rear housings to mix and match from unlike there GT30 based turbo's.

i had advan neova AD06's on my old soarer which made 300kw@wheels with a fairly sudden spike in power and they held on remarkably well when they had tread on them.

why not give jeff ash a call and see what he says? i'm sure someone's tried it before. If not jump on performance forums and send him a pm

very nice!! Love the way nismo tune skylines, everything you need and nothing you dont

basically you go for a bigger wastegate to vent larger amounts of air, the problem is, the bigger the wastegate, the bigger loss in response when it opens because it dumps a heap of air rather than a smaller one which will dump a smaller amoutn of air. If you get what im trying to say lol basically for 300-320kw@wheels you wouldn't need a very large wastegate as you wont need to dump a relatively large amount of air to stop the boost from creeping up.

JZZ30 soarer GT-T Trust T78-33D kit 14psi 293kw@wheels trust type c wastegate 50mm

Has anyone had any vast experience with the stock suspension setup of a 32 vspec? Is it worth keeping for a street car or is it not much chop at all?? The car in question has about 50K on the clock and the wear indicates about that or a little more. any opinions would be great, cheers

speaking of electronic boost controllers, has anyone heard anything bad about the new Trust profec B spec 2's??