whatsisname

When I was looking at getting a turbo upgrade (over 2yrs ago) I rang lots of places asking for info & prices (including GCG) I didn't know much about turbos (still don't). I basically just asked for a decent turbo that would make good power, not too much lag & on lowish boost (14-16psi). Vince just said "yep no prob's this is what we'll do" & gave me a very decent price too! He told me that lag would be up to 500rpm-1000rpm more than the stock item & he was pretty much right! I also remember him saying the turbo was good for 18psi. I only wish I'd written down all the spec's of the turbo He did show me the 2 side by side (my old stockie vs new) Quite a difference in size! Check your PM for more info mate. The car is very streetable providing it has good tyres. Crap tyres ='s w/spin till 80-100km/h. If I were you I'd look into the HKS GT-RS. The main advantage with this option is you're getting a turbo that is proven to flow XXXhp & with the latest turbo design technology will have very good response. Don't get me wrong, I love my turbo, for the price it has been fantastic, but with more $$$ I'd love a HKS GT-RS.

Steve, Thanks mate. I'd be happy with a flat 13 if I was only getting 106mph in street trim, but with 113-115mph I "should" be going much quicker. A nice twin plate clutch would be good but don't have the $$$ atm I think a 4500rpm launch will give me a better 60' foot time IF (& it's a big if) the car hooks up with a small amount of w/spin. 3000rpm only gave me better 60's this meet as the 2 passes I did @ 4500rpm were hampered by clutch issues & too much w/spin (due to cold tyres - no burnout!) I've run a best 60' of 2.153 with my old tyres launching @ 3000rpm. They had a lot less grip & spun a touch easier, whereas the RE540S's need more rev's to prevent the car bogging down. If I'd have got a 2.1XX on any of the passes I did I'd have run a 12! Damn it!

My turbo is a plain bearing T3/T4 built by Precision Turbochargers, based on spec's recommended by Vince Rigoli. Nothing to do with GCG @ all. I know the T3/T4 term doesn't narrow things down too much but as I've posted a few times in the past I don't know the full spec's? It's NOT a high flow standard turbo, it's much larger than stock. They used new housings (much larger than stock!) back cut the exhaust wheel, & used a TO4E or T04B compressor wheel (not sure which?) 0.64 A/R. It bolts to the standard manifold (T3 flange) & uses an internal wastegate. On the Tilbrook dyno it made 257rwkw on 13psi after tuning by MR HPI himself Martin Donnon. Prior to the this tuning it had made 244rwkw. On another dyno it made 236rwkw after the initial Microtech tuning, but it had a few less mod's at this stage. At the end of the day the rwkw fig's are just a rough guide, I've heard of cars with less power than mine (according to dyno fig's) go quicker down the 1/4. Power curve is the key here! A driver who can helps too If I had the $$$ I'd be getting the HKS GT-RS without a doubt! Cheers

Yeah I had a bit of a disappointing night too The power is there for a 12 no prob's, 115.8mph TS shows that. A best of 13.0 @ 113mph was a piss off, 12.99 would've made me much happier Oh well that's drag racing for you 1st run - Drove off the line @ 3000rpm & bogged - 13.0 @ 113 (2.238) 2nd run - 4500rpm dumped clutch. Sat there spinning, had to back off to get traction - 13.6 @ 115.8 (2.667) *Note to self* - DON'T GO AROUND THE WATER. ALWAYS DO A SMALL BURNOUT AT LEAST! 3rd run - 4500rpm trying to slip clutch & feed power on. Clutch slips badly in 1st (hit limiter!) continues to slips into 2nd - 13.7 @ 111 (2.519) 4th & final run - 3000rpm drive off line again (was expecting clutch to slip so took it easy) bogged "again" - 13.1 @ 112.8 (2.275) Things to remember for next meet: 4500rpm (possibly higher?) clutch dump works best I need some w/spin off the line to build boost Shift gears @ 6800-7000rpm not 7200-7300rpm (my limiter is @ 7350rpm) Always do a burnout, nothing huge just a quick one (save the clutch)

Oops my bad

Yep I'm running.

Considering you've got all the documentation (engineering certificate, ex-NSW rego papers) it seems the Regency guys have decided to make their own rules! There's probably a small clause in the rego transfer guidelines that allows them to pretty much do as they please. Which is bullshit

J, I'll take a close look & get back to you on the exact position of the needle mate, rather than give a rough guestimate (a few needle widths below 1/2 way?) I do remember noticing it sat a bit higher than standard, but that was going from no FMIC & stock fan to FMIC & DC 16". It probably reads ~1 needle width higher than stock. Same deal with the running time & so on, I'll monitor & let you know. I've got the thermo s/w set below 1/2 way.

You can tell it's a GTS25t due to the side indicators, GT-R ones are the round bubble style.

Barks, Sorry to hear about the demise of the stockies mate. I thought 16psi was a bit too much for 'em It's better that your old turbos have let go now rather than a few months down the track. Perfect upgrade with the 34 GT-R turbos too! Steel exhaust wheels & a few extra yrs of design technology should make them a perfect upgrade for a daily driven R32 GT-R. I'd say that they'll liberate a few more kw predator666, Not that I know Ethan_R32's car modifying budget but even if Munro was selling his HKS GT2835R x2 kit (which I don't believe he is just yet?) I don't think the price would be in the basic upgrade bracket. A single GT2835R is well over $5000 new. Add the wastegates, manifold & so on & I'd be guessing 8-10k 2nd hand for that kit.

Large bonnet vents. Edit: Or a carbon fibre 400R type bonnet, like BY BY's (I think?) one below- or this one -

Steve, My set-up is the same as J's (from the sounds of it) DC16 with thermo s/w & no room for the factory shroud. I used sealant & a well tightened clamp to ensure no leaks from the thermocouple line in the top pipe. I've had mine for a few yrs now & apart from 2 blown fuses (poor quality fuse holder - replaced with a quality one) it's worked very well. Temp's sit @ ~82'c (hits 92'c if really hot & pushing it). I've been in bumper to bumper near 40'c heat A/C on full blast & the temp gauge hardly moved up @ all (yes my temp gauge works). The size, type & postioning of a FMIC can really effect running temps! I noticed Steve that you FMIC is a bar & plate (actually looked more of a bar-fin?) These FMIC's seem to pose more of a restriction for airflow through to the radiator. I actually contacted Davies Craig (or is that Craig David ) & gave them a run down on my car, they suggested the DSL16 over a set of smaller twins! Maybe go for a 16 & a smaller one beside it. If it'll fit? Use a good quality coolant & add a bottle of Redline Water Wetter & you should have no problems. If I was into pushing my car hard around a race track (round & round type ) I be going for a radiator upgrade straight up! For the occassional drag run & spirited road use in all weather the DC16 is great

Nice result mate gotta' be happy with that! I'm wondering just how safe 16psi really is on the stock R32 GT-R T28 turbos?

Mel, What about a set of DBA upgrades? Either the R32 GT-R DBA's or even GTS-t/GTS25t DBA's? I'd get regency to give you the EXACT size requirements (thickness & dia') & have a chat to the guys from DBA. I'd like to know why Regency decided you needed a full roadworthy inspection!? It was previously registered in NSW so it should have just been a VII (Vehicle Identity Inspection) That's all I was required to do! The engine swap was the issue obviously but how did it get registered in NSW without being engineered in the first place! Sounds a little dodgy to me!

Standard R32 GT-R's have managed to run 12.9's stock, I'm not sure about the R34 GT-R running a 12.8-12.9? It certainly wouldn't be far off it. 13.0-13.1 no problems. One of our forum regulars (Munro) has ran 12.1 @ 115mph in his 34 GT-R, with very minimal mod's.

Well done John! Fantastic reading mate. Thanks for taking the considerable time & effort to give us all an insight into your GT-R drag racing history.

Falken Ziex are absolute rubbish, good if you want 50k from a set of tyres, useless for anything else.

benm, The RE540S is Bridgestone's road legal competition tyre (semi-comp/semi-slick) is has minimal tread grooves & is designed for circuit style racing. It has a very stiff sidewall (one of the stiffest semi-comp's) so it doesn't really suit drag racing, however due to the very soft tread compound it gives awesome grip levels (both straight line & corner). As with any competition tyre the RE540S needs heat before it gives it's best, has very poor wear rates, is noisey as hell & picks up every little stone on the road ("tink" "tink" on the inner guards) For my needs I found the RE540S's grip levels, cost & all-round nature of the tyre (wet weather grip I haven't tested yet) to be unbeatable RE540S - It comes in a range of sizes from 185/55/14 to 265/30/18. My rear 255/40/17's were $310ea front 235/45/17's were ~$280ea

Chilli & Guiness! Hell just back that arse out the window & it's good for .2 & 5mph In all seriousness I "shouldn't" have too many issues with w/spin, as the RE540S's hook up 100% better than my old Falkens ever did! A 2.0X 60 is my goal, nothin' too extreme.

How'd ya' measure that 5hp rev? With the good 'ol Arse'o'meter? Sorry mate had to be done I'm tipping you'll be making it into the 12's very soon. I'm heading back to AIR this weekend, see if I can't get myself another low 13 with 115mph TS.

Told ya' Laurie was the go didn't we Steve Laurie went one better when I got my RE540S's - Free beers, Crownies too!

BUSTED! :Owned: Nice numbers Jeff. EC isn't the easiest track to get good ET's on either! Speaking from experience. EDIT: Just noticed Vishes had already stated he runs minus seats etc... Removing interior is no longer "street trim" IMO. Street trim to me means - out of the garage, down to the strip & off you go! That's how I run my car, nothing different to how I drive it 100% of the time. I've never even dropped my tyre pressures

I travel through that intersection, where the accident happened, twice a day to/from work - 140km/h heading up the rise into that intersection - WTF!!! The stupidity it takes to do 140km/h on that stretch of road, towards a set of lights, tells me this guy should be banned from driving for a looong time.

Thanks mate. Traction use to be fairly interesting but with semi-comp tyres it's not too bad now, providing there's heat in the tyres.

The "mostly stock" in my sig' isn't exactly true I've listed most of my mod's here (part way through the thread) - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...25&pagenumber=1